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shuttle overheat?

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DUCASSOS View Drop Down
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    Posted: 18 Mar 19 at 19:34
Hi All, newbie first post. 
Don't know if this is relevant but I pulled out of junction onto very fast busy road, had to boot it so wheels spun and jumped . got about a mile down the road and temp ligh came on and gauge shot up. stopped let it cool down ,checked coolant , no loss of coolant ? Called AA (and joined )  no diagnostic faults .   checked temp ,gauge showed normal 90 deg. He checked temp of hoses etc , they show cool ?
 When in idle gauge showed normal soon as I drove off gauge shot up . He said he thought when in drive mode the coolant wasn't circulating suggesting the pump was spinning but impeller blades were broken off?  was hoping maybe stuck thermostat but the latter looks  more likely.? any thoughts ?. 
Now in my drive need to find mechanic to come to me? Or I have to pay another big transport bill.
cheers for any advice

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T5 TDI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 19 at 07:43
Welcome!  It depends on which engine you have.  If it is a 2.5 the water water pumps rarely fail in that way.  (They cause a different problem!)  All of the other engines with a fan belt driven water pump can cause that problem.  The impeller blades come loose and the pump shaft just slips and barely turns them.

You should be sure first that it is actually getting warmer than it should in case it is an electrical fault.  Also, check for excess pressure in the coolant bottle especially if it is present the next day. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DUCASSOS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 19 at 10:05
Hi thanks for early reply, it's 2.5 tdi, 5  cylinder 2005 .

 maybe just a coincidence me wheel spinning and wheels jumping when I had to excellerate away quickly. but it overheated a few minutes after. 
could it be a temperature sensor?`AA said no fault codes, gauge was showing hot but temp of hoses etc were a lot cooler . temp stayed normal whilst idling but gauge went up when driving.
sorry can't be more informative. 
Thanks 
Paul
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T5 TDI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 19 at 10:25
I'm not saying it is impossible to be the pump slipping on a 2.5 but it's very rare.  I think I have only heard of one case.  There are many leaking pumps (into the oil!) though. But these will cause low coolant bottle level. Head gaskets very rarely fail on 2.5's.

If you saw the temp gauge near the top there should have been other symptoms of overheating.

The temperature sensor could be at fault, as long as it stays within its normal possible parameters it won't necessarily cause a fault code to be logged.  To change the temp sensor on a 2.5 is a bit awkward but a local mobile mechanic can do it for you if you are not handy. The part is about £50-£60 from VW there are cheap aftermarket sensors listed but they will not fit.  The correct one comes with a short piece of loom and you will need to buy a seal because it doesn't come with one.  Have a look at the 'How to do' thread.  I put a description of how to replace it without removing the front panel as the manual suggests.

  


Edited by T5 TDI - 19 Mar 19 at 21:02
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 912 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 19 at 12:08
If the water isn’t circulating I would check the thermostat first, then radiator, fins braking off water pump isn’t very common. Cold hoses does suggest lack of circulation
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T5 TDI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 19 at 13:35
If the thermostat was stuck closed then the high temp reading was genuine I think he would have had some signs. If you are under the bonnet of an engine that is boiling there is always some symptom.
 
The most common problem with VW pumps is the impeller slipping around the pump shaft rather than anything actually breaking. If it consistently shows normal temp at idle but climbs on revving I probably would check the pump first, especially if there was no history of a new pump. I say that because the early 2.5 pumps did leak so it would do no harm to replace it. (Special tools needed). Hard to say without being there. It's worth making sure that there is no restriction of the radiator fins (like a plastic bag stuck in there).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DUCASSOS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 19 at 16:29
temp gauge stayed on normal whilst reving engine but when I drove to a safe place to park it went up and temp light came  on.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DUCASSOS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 19 at 16:35
I'LL have to get a mechanic out to my home and go through what the AA man did again. I can't drive it to a garage. Looks like I'll have to get sensor and thermostat done first if that doesn't do it its the pump then Cry
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DUCASSOS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 19 at 16:58
these are the only codes AA man found . not helpful though.
03DF INT LIGHTING ELEC FAULT (NO , ALL OK)
063E  POWER SUPPLY MAX EXCEEDED
063E  POWER SUPPLY LESS THAN MIN
0385  REVERSE LIGHT ELEC FAULT IN CIRCUIT . (I THINK THIS IS MY REVERSE SENSORS , WORK INTERMITTANTLY.)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DUCASSOS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 19 at 17:03
71,000  FROM NEW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 912 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 19 at 17:04
The hoses would get hot even without the pump working, the hoses will not get hot with a faulty thermostat
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DUCASSOS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 19 at 19:00
I prefer the sound of that . rather than the pumpBig smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DUCASSOS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 19 at 12:00
sorry to be a pain in the A , but I started it up this morning left it idling till the gauge was normal 90 
sat there with revs to 2k for 15 mins ,gauge still normal but expansion tank and hoses cool. top hose on rad was warm not hot. NO HOT air coming from heater.  took it down the road about 500 meters and gauge started going up. Got back home left it running, gauge went back to normal. hoses still not hot ,expansion bottle starting to get a little warm not hot. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T5 TDI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 19 at 14:33
Most diesels won't get up to temperature at idle in winter.  They are more thermally efficient than a petrol engine which will just get hotter and hotter if there is no airflow through the radiator from the van moving through the air.  Only load on the engine (hills are best) will get it fully up to temp.  If you managed to get it showing 90 degrees by only idling from cold I would say the temp sensor is a more likely suspect.  

There is a long history here of complaints (always in winter!) here about the length of time it takes for the heater to get hot.  If you can get access to VCDS you can see what the G62 sensor is reporting from cold.  If it then shows (for example) a coolant temp of 90 degrees when it has only been running for two minutes when the ambient temp is only say 10 degrees that would make it more likely that it is an electrical fault. 

  It is important that an engine isn't run if it is genuinely overheating but yours doesn't sound like that to me.       


Edited by T5 TDI - 20 Mar 19 at 14:34
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DUCASSOS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 19 at 17:46
I'm booking it in soon been quoted 373 for new pump and labour. which I thought wasn't bad . Have to go from there. if it's not pump then thermostat. Which is 3 hrs labour , pump is ony 2 hrs.they do a full health check for free.  I went to a few " specialist vw garages " and they either didn't have the tools or not enough headroom to put on ramp?? I would'nt say they were specialist? 
Luckily Marshalls vw commercials are just a mile from me.
thing puzzled me was marshalls vw cars pump was 209 , vw commercial 161 including vat??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 912 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 19 at 18:48
I would ask for a price for both, individually they will
Be lots more expensive than together, be cheeky and ask for a cheaper price, I assume commercial is s cheaper hourly rate
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DUCASSOS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 19 at 19:01
LABOUR IS AROUND 140 AN HR , i GOT IT FOR 80 +VAT. THEY ARE CHEAPER THAN SOME OF THE SMALLER GARAGES!! BUT i WILL TRY AGAIN WHEN i GO IN. WILL TELL THEM I WANT OIL CHANGE AND BRAKE FLUID CHANGED LATER ! TOO OLD BONES TO DO IT MYSELF. CAN'T GET BACK UP Embarrassed

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