Starter mount repair |
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Walrus
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 08 Sep 08 Location: A damp hole Status: Offline Points: 32 |
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Posted: 23 Dec 18 at 22:46 |
I replaced my starter motor this weekend - t'was a pig of a job as the bolts were the hex key kind and were rounded off inside. Anyway, I found it was only held on with 2 bolts - the reason for this became apparent when I got the starter off: The old start turned over like molasses in winter - It had gotten twisted over time, confirmed by looking at the wear on the teeth. The new starter turns the engine over just fine but to stop it going the same way I need to get this fixed. I see three possibilities: 1) Replace the mount. As far as I can tell it's part of the gearbox casting, so that means a new gearbox. £££. 2) Get it welded. A skilled TIG welder could do it, but from what I've read they'd want to have the gearbox removed. ££+. 3) Glue it. I've been reading up on Epoxy glues, like JB Weld. I could glue in a threaded bar, build up the glue around the bar, maybe spread it over a wide area to get as much support as possible, possible reinforce it... £. Cheap! But would it work? And would it last?
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If you are what you eat then I'm fast, cheap and easy
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AndyT
Moderator Group Joined: 16 May 08 Location: Ammanford Status: Offline Points: 2274 |
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I've used milliput in the past for all sorts of repairs. Remove all traces of oil first. I'd make a plate with a nut attached (milliput too) that fits on the back of the threaded area so that you can give as much surface area as possible to bond too. The nut will give the bolt something to thread into, do this before it sets to line it up. You could also drill holes in the plate to allow the milliput to squeeze through to make a mushroom shape.
Edited by AndyT - 02 Jan 19 at 10:49 |
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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k
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Walrus
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 08 Sep 08 Location: A damp hole Status: Offline Points: 32 |
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I'm going to try Epoxy. I've got some JB Weld; the plan is to clean up the thread and fix a s/s bolt/rod into the 'hole' you can see on the picture, then make a former for the epoxy to mold into around the rod (I'm told it 'moves' before it's cured). The rod will allow the starter motor to be mounted ok, except that it would now need a nut to secure it in this location (the other 2 holes will still use bolts). Currently working on a plastic cling film-faced former (so the epoxy doesn't stick to whatever I want to use to make the mold). If this fails, plan B is to try aluminium brazing rods. I've watched a few video's on this and it looks quite difficult and would probably be a gearbox-out job, due to having to apply heat to the casting near lots of platic pipes/wiring - but it could still be a DIY job. Plan C is the TIG welding option. Still gearbox out; I've been told the welding is relatively easy, it's the clean up afterwards and re-threading the hole that would be the difficult / time consuming bit. I've done a bit of TIG welding but I'm not equipped to do the machining.
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If you are what you eat then I'm fast, cheap and easy
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AndyT
Moderator Group Joined: 16 May 08 Location: Ammanford Status: Offline Points: 2274 |
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I've only used JB Weld once, stuck ok but once I tightened the bolt and it wasn't tight it cracked. Using a stud is another solution but how do you stop it turning when you tighten the nut?. Better if you grind a bolt down to fit so you have 2 flats to hold it when you tighten the nut.
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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k
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Walrus
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 08 Sep 08 Location: A damp hole Status: Offline Points: 32 |
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I intended to bend/split the other end of the rod so it sits on the gearbox case and doesn't rotate in the hole (might still use a Bolt if I can make it work better). The starter has been on for 2 weeks now and it working fine, so 2 bolts works - this is really so that the motor doesn't rotate in the mounting, rather than to support the motor directly - so once done, fitting the starter will be to put it in the hole, making sure the mounting hole with the bar goes on first, then fit & tighten the 2 existing bolts, then fit a nut to the repaired bolt to help hold it all in place - so the repair theoretically only takes ~1/3 of the load, rather than all the load when first fitting the motor..
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If you are what you eat then I'm fast, cheap and easy
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Walrus
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 08 Sep 08 Location: A damp hole Status: Offline Points: 32 |
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It makes sense in my head... I'll take some pics (maybe even a video) of the process - if you get to see the pics/video then it worked - if you see nothing then it didn't... ;-)
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If you are what you eat then I'm fast, cheap and easy
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AndyT
Moderator Group Joined: 16 May 08 Location: Ammanford Status: Offline Points: 2274 |
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Good luck with whatever method you use, an allen key bolt has a smaller head so might work better.
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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k
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