AGG engine gurus needed |
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club joker 84
Groupie Joined: 21 Jul 09 Location: Cornwall Status: Offline Points: 138 |
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Posted: 28 Nov 18 at 00:11 |
Hi all - marathon post alert!
Having intermittent rough running / kangerooing problems with an AGG engine. Have also lost odb port function.
History - install thread here. Great conversion and ran well for over 6 months. Had a strange problem last Christmas where I drove it for about 20 miles to visit family and it struggled to restart. It felt like the starter couldn't turn the engine over, then it started, ran terrible for a minute and shat oil all over the drive. Got it trailered home and took the engine out and apart convinced I would find all sorts of mayhem inside it. Odd thing was that there was absolutely nothing wrong with it that I could see. Re-installed it, and ran fine again after. Only other issue was a dead ECU relay a few months later. I then had a strange immobiliser issue in summer. Immobiliser stopped recognising the key chip and obd port stopped working. This happened on and off and it would just randomly work or not work (immo, obd always not working) - i.e. start but then die after a few seconds. No obvious wiring faults. Bought an immobiliser emulator from ebay and this solved it, but then this stopped working too. Plugged immo back in and it worked fine. Just swapped between them and it settled down. Now have immo plugged back in, but OBD port still not working. Again, no obvious wiring faults and have continuity on all wires. This had previously worked fine. Van always ran fine once started. Separate to this, I took engine out last week to deal with a sticky clutch arm. All fixed and engine reinstalled and reconnected, etc. started ok, but did not have time to do coolant etc. until the following day. Next day it would not start. Felt like no spark. Fiddled around a bit with no luck. Decided to change crank sensor just because I know that they can cause this issue and I had another one lying around. It's from a spare engine, so unknown if good or bad. This solved things, all coolant added and bled. Ran a bit rough during bleeding (low idle, sounded like it might stall, but didn't), but stayed running and revved happily. Drove it to work the next day, went about 6 miles and it went 'clonk' pulling onto a roundabout and felt like it had jumped out of gear. It hadn't and spluttered and started pulling again. Then it ran lumpy / kangerooing a bit. I pulled into a side road and it almost stalled, then just fixed itself and started running fine. Finished driving remaining 2 miles to work with no more problems. Did exactly the same thing on the way home after a similar distance. Next day drove to work no problems, but then similar issue again on the way home. It runs fine apart from this sudden issue. Pulls fine, revs past 5000rpm, etc. So, what is causing this problem? Ideally, I would also like to get the obd working again too! So far all I have come up with is a dodgy ecu relay and /or possibly coil. Reluctant to just chuck parts at it though, so any ideas or suggestion would be gratefully received. Thanks in advance for any help! Ben |
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Titus A Duxass
Vanorak Joined: 12 Feb 08 Location: Lossatal, Germ. Status: Offline Points: 2164 |
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What are you using to "read" the ECU, if you are using a windows PC with a USB lead are you getting a communication error?
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Bollocks to it all!!
51°24′N 12°52′E |
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retroloz
Groupie Joined: 05 Nov 13 Location: Worcester Status: Offline Points: 68 |
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Ive had similar issues to this recently, start her up and unplug the MAF while running, give it a min and see if it changes. If it runs smooth with the MAF disconnected then the MAF is dead. And dare I say it clean the throttle body inside, they get filthy and cause idle and stalling issues. Ive removed my breather system with 2 crankcase filters. these agg engine eat there own oil filth. I checked alot of the GTI forums for all these little gremlins they have. Hope you win bud =)
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retroloz
Groupie Joined: 05 Nov 13 Location: Worcester Status: Offline Points: 68 |
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Oh I forgot to mention also disconnect the battery for 10 or 30 mins (cant remember) this resets the ECU. apperently simos ecu doesnt keep its codes, but im not 100% on that. Good luck
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club joker 84
Groupie Joined: 21 Jul 09 Location: Cornwall Status: Offline Points: 138 |
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Using a windows pc, unregistered version of VCDS with an ebay usb lead. Not had any issued previously. It goes through the test fine (finds the COM port etc.), when you test the van itself, it sits there making the clicking noise for quite a while, then says 'module not found' I think. Will try again and do a screenshot with the actual error. Can also try on another pc and let you know how that goes.
Battery was disconnected for a good few days whilst the engine was out, so already tried that really. I'll give the throttle body a clean and try disconnecting the MAF and see where that gets me. Fault is so sudden though that I think it is something more 'on off' than that, but it definitely can't do any harm! Will let you know how I get on. Thanks for your help so far! Ben
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Titus A Duxass
Vanorak Joined: 12 Feb 08 Location: Lossatal, Germ. Status: Offline Points: 2164 |
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Ben,
I have been having the same problems with a registered VCDS-lite. There was a windows update and the fuckers changed some of the USB settings which means that there is no communication with the controller. I haven't been able to find a solution so I bought an OBDeleven dongle - it works fine. Disconnecting the battery makes no difference. As Retroloz says - check the MAF, if disconnecting it does run smooth trying cleaning the MAF with a lug rooter and some brake cleaner. Be careful though. The two whiskers should be clean and bright, not black and hairy - nobody likes a dirty muff. And, also as Retroloz says, clean the throttle body. |
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Bollocks to it all!!
51°24′N 12°52′E |
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club joker 84
Groupie Joined: 21 Jul 09 Location: Cornwall Status: Offline Points: 138 |
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Hi guys,
Thanks for your responses. Haven't had time to clean the MAF, throttle body, etc., but did try running it without the MAF plugged in. Same thing happened, so sure it wasn't that (will give it a clean anyway!). Went for broke and replaced the ecu and fuel relays, crank sensor, air inlet temp sensor, coolant temp sensor and coil and (fingers crossed), it seems to be behaving and going well. Still no luck communicating with ecu though . Going to try with an older computer and see what happens. Which OBDeleven dongle was it that worked for you? Presumably it doesn't work with vcds? Thanks, Ben
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Titus A Duxass
Vanorak Joined: 12 Feb 08 Location: Lossatal, Germ. Status: Offline Points: 2164 |
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Ben,
This OBDeleven - https://www.amazon.co.uk/OBDeleven-diagnostic-interface-reading-diagnostics/dp/B0792WZMJ2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1545113091&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=obdeleven&dpPl=1&dpID=31m1ACbUSzL&ref=plSrch It doesn't use VCDS you download an app. |
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Bollocks to it all!!
51°24′N 12°52′E |
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Mark-Hans
Yardie turkey drummer Joined: 22 Jul 12 Location: Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 332 |
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Greetings. We have a beautiful T3 Westfalia that was originally Diesel and has been converted to a AGG Golf GTi Version, complete with a hairdressers bunch of un-known cables. The computer running this lot is a Bosch Digifant 11, 037 906 022 N.
The Digifant system came to a sudden halt when the carbon tip in the distributor disintegrated, and basically the inside of the cap was black, so that appears to be where the problem started. The system bears resemblance to the later Digifant on the T3, but with lots more bits running around. No spark!...... Changed the cap, rotor, hall sensor in the distributor, the flat black HT unit and the coil. When I switch on the ignition, the fuel pump pressures up for 2 second and the idle control valve on the top of the engine hums, all a bit the same as the T3. I have power to the coil from the ignition switch, there is power going into the ECU too. Still NO SPARK......... I'm on day three, but getting no-where accept a lot of new parts, none of which make any difference. My two major questions are....., there is an immobiliser fitted up front (from the Golf 2) with some boxes of tricks in the loom. Working on the basis that it has been running perfectly for some years, what exactly does this immobiliser immobilize? because I DO have power at the ignition coil etc. Does it block something else inside the computer. Anyone got an idea. Last question is, due to the burn out in the distributor, what would this damage?..... as the HT outlet of the coil obviously didn't get earthed for a few minutes......... I'm no further and hope you guys might know!.......... Give me T3 Electrics any day, nice and simple!.... Thanks in advance. |
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Titus A Duxass
Vanorak Joined: 12 Feb 08 Location: Lossatal, Germ. Status: Offline Points: 2164 |
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It sounds like you have a 2e motor and not an AGG in your van.
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Bollocks to it all!!
51°24′N 12°52′E |
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Mark-Hans
Yardie turkey drummer Joined: 22 Jul 12 Location: Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 332 |
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Could Well Be. But what difference does this mean, as to no spark!.
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Mark..Amsterdam
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Titus A Duxass
Vanorak Joined: 12 Feb 08 Location: Lossatal, Germ. Status: Offline Points: 2164 |
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As you know from the other thread, the immo lets the motor run (for about 0,5 seconds), so that can be ruled out.
Edited by Titus A Duxass - 30 Aug 19 at 07:48 |
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Bollocks to it all!!
51°24′N 12°52′E |
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Mark-Hans
Yardie turkey drummer Joined: 22 Jul 12 Location: Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 332 |
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Thank you for picking this up. If the immobiliser got damaged, how would we know as we have no spark at all..... not even one click!...... Could the immobiliser be damaged. Is there a wiring in the computer I can check for voltage? Thanks.
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Mark..Amsterdam
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Stephen Greece
Yardie Joined: 18 May 07 Location: Thessaloniki GR Status: Offline Points: 537 |
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Fuel pump working properly? works intermittently / when you knock it a bit?
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More time spent under it than in it....
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club joker 84
Groupie Joined: 21 Jul 09 Location: Cornwall Status: Offline Points: 138 |
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If your immob has been working for years, I don't think that the distributor issues will have affected it. I wouldnt go poking around with it if you can help it. I also think it is unlikely to be the ecu. They are more robust than most people think.
You had an issue with your distributor, and now have no spark. I know you have changed a lot of parts, but it seems to me that the problem is most likely to be part of the ignition system rather than a separate issue with the immobiliser. If you have power to the coil (and presumly it is earthed OK), then it is probably the distributor itself. I would go through the ignition system step by step. Are your ht leads OK? They can be damaged being pulled in and out.
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Mark-Hans
Yardie turkey drummer Joined: 22 Jul 12 Location: Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 332 |
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Firstly, a big thank you for your time. It's appreciated very much.
OK, good to start at the beginning.
Failure was due to a burn'd out carbon in the distributor cap. We replaced the Hall Unit in the Distributor with a new Bosch Unit, also the Hall Unit Control Box which is just before the Distributor, there is non idle control box, as it's Digifant. Replaced the ignition coil as well, so I think we covered the sparks!.... Yes, we fitted a new HT lead from coil, and this is our testing point. Fuel Pump fires up correctly every time, no problem with that. But, we still don't have a spark. Nothing...............We've made sure the battery is also fully charged...... We are going to send the computer off to 'a man who fixes, reads & knows these units" and see if (if) there is a fault in there...... cause if the immobiliser is fine, then we only have the computer left over. If that's OK, we have to go into the wiring loom which might be a nightmare, as 70% of what was Golf, has been cut or removed. I hate conversions!...... Thanks. I'll keep an open mind. Now to talk to the customer!. |
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Mark..Amsterdam
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Titus A Duxass
Vanorak Joined: 12 Feb 08 Location: Lossatal, Germ. Status: Offline Points: 2164 |
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Okay.
How many relays are fitted to this conversion? If there's three one will be for the coil. The coil needs an earth, a switched 12v which can either be provided via a relay or taken directly from the van wiring and a switched earth from the ECU. Check the all the relays are working ( it sounds like they are) and check out the wiring to the coil.
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Bollocks to it all!!
51°24′N 12°52′E |
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club joker 84
Groupie Joined: 21 Jul 09 Location: Cornwall Status: Offline Points: 138 |
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Did you replace the cap itself and rotor arm? Does the distributor go around as it should? Has it moved or slipped? If there a short circuit somewhere in there? I still reckon that the fault will lie somewhere in the ignition circuit. I can't see any reason why the immobiliser or ecu would have been affected.
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