Change crankshaft pulley bolt JX

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   I just realised I fucked up and didn't replace the crankshaft pulley bolt last time I had it out (to change the seal).   That was around 9 months ago and luckily it hasn't come undone yet.   I didn't know they're single use and found out just now by accident.

Is there a quick way to just replace the bolt without having to take it all completely apart again? The timing belt is only a few months old.  I can't  remember exactly how it all fitted together now, but I think pulley is locked with a woodruff key so timing shouldn't move if I take the bolt out.

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akw Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 07 Jun 13 Location: Bournemouth Status: Offline Points: 145	Post Options Post Reply Quote akw Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Change crankshaft pulley bolt JX Posted: 14 Feb 18 at 00:34
	I just realised I fucked up and didn't replace the crankshaft pulley bolt last time I had it out (to change the seal). That was around 9 months ago and luckily it hasn't come undone yet. I didn't know they're single use and found out just now by accident. Is there a quick way to just replace the bolt without having to take it all completely apart again? The timing belt is only a few months old. I can't remember exactly how it all fitted together now, but I think pulley is locked with a woodruff key so timing shouldn't move if I take the bolt out.
	'90 T3 Bluestar

dave friday Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Yardie Joined: 18 Oct 06 Location: Albox Spain Status: Offline Points: 459	Post Options Post Reply Quote dave friday Report Post Thanks(1) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Feb 18 at 02:59
	The crank nose has a key slot cut into it,the crank gear has a corresponding sticky out key...so you can just replace the bolt ! Good morning!
	1992 1.6td syncro

akw Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 07 Jun 13 Location: Bournemouth Status: Offline Points: 145	Post Options Post Reply Quote akw Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Feb 18 at 16:34
	Awesome, thanks! That makes me feel a bit better :-) I just double checked and the bolt I have in there at the moment is not a 12 point one like: https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/crank-pulley-bolt-most-4-cyl-diesels.html but a normal M12 19mm one. Does this one need replacing every time too? I had a look through Bentley and it doesn't say anything. Usually it's quite good at highlighting the bits that cannot be reused. Nothing in the little JK manual either so it was an easy mistake to make for a n00b. I'm assuming I can swap the M12 for the 12 pointed version without problems? The little JK manual says to put the bus in gear + handbrake when torquing up the bolt. Is that right? I've seen some posts claiming that it's a bad idea and one should always use a proper (or made up) crank gear locking tool. Edited by akw - 14 Feb 18 at 18:14
	'90 T3 Bluestar

dave friday Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Yardie Joined: 18 Oct 06 Location: Albox Spain Status: Offline Points: 459	Post Options Post Reply Quote dave friday Report Post Thanks(1) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Feb 18 at 18:56
	Replace it,have a look at the " wiki" on club 80-90... I drilled a couple of holes in an old flat spanner, put a bit of scafold pole over the spanner etc. Good luck.
	1992 1.6td syncro

Timjburrows Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 06 Sep 14 Location: Oxfordshire Status: Offline Points: 226	Post Options Post Reply Quote Timjburrows Report Post Thanks(1) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Feb 18 at 18:58
	The proper VW crank locking tool is nearly a meter long which tells you how tight the bolt has to be done up,it may also explain why the pulley falls off with such regularlity,I suspect the oil seal is replaced and not done up tight enough,

dave friday Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Yardie Joined: 18 Oct 06 Location: Albox Spain Status: Offline Points: 459	Post Options Post Reply Quote dave friday Report Post Thanks(1) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Feb 18 at 19:42
	90 nm+90deg very tight!
	1992 1.6td syncro

akw Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 07 Jun 13 Location: Bournemouth Status: Offline Points: 145	Post Options Post Reply Quote akw Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Feb 18 at 20:00
	Thanks, it all makes sense now. The new bolt is in the post and will get it torqued up properly. I'm lucky to realise the mistake before any damage was done. It was purely by co-incidence through looking at unrelated stuff on samba... Edited by akw - 14 Feb 18 at 23:02
	'90 T3 Bluestar

danstervan Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Yardie Joined: 19 Jul 11 Location: Caledonia Status: Offline Points: 547	Post Options Post Reply Quote danstervan Report Post Thanks(1) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Feb 18 at 22:37
	The proper VW tool holds the timing belt pulley with bolts through the 4 M8 holes. (V / serpentine belt pulley removed). It's easy enough to make something up to lock the pulley in a similar fashion. Just don't use too long bolts in case they screw in too far and butt out against the alloy seal casing. Doing it this way means the crank is pulled into the pulley as the bolt is tightened. Fannying around trying to lock the flywheel is dodgy practice because not restraining the timing belt pulley can mean under head friction from the bolt when it is tightened can begin to turn the timing belt pulley against the crank and partially shear the little keyway lug, and of course this means it then isn't orientated as it should be on the crank nose. Plus, due to the high torque required to tighten the bolt, anything that fits between the flywheel teeth has potential to slip or break off and if that happens you could lose the angular reference point in the final stages of torquing. Also have to research carefully and ensure you use the correct torquing procedure for the different bolts types. Early hex head, and then bi-hex types differ. Confucius say: Pissed up guy on t'internet on a Friday night may not always spout ultimate truth... Edited by danstervan - 16 Feb 18 at 22:39

akw Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 07 Jun 13 Location: Bournemouth Status: Offline Points: 145	Post Options Post Reply Quote akw Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 27 Feb 18 at 15:09
	In the end I forked out for a proper locking tool with the uber long handle (vw 3415 made by asta). I'm glad I did because getting the old bolt out and torquing the new one to spec took a lot of force. It was a pretty quick job with the right tools though. Thanks for all your help!
	'90 T3 Bluestar