|
|
T5 ELectrics |
Post Reply 
|
| Author | |
Ddd65 
Newbie 
Joined: 20 Feb 17 Status: Offline Points: 9 |
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote Reply
 Topic: T5 ELectricsPosted: 20 Feb 17 at 13:06 |
|
Van electrical issues.
XT5 Van been off the road for a while. Have a new battery and alternator charging it OK. Turn ignition on. Dashboard lights up. Lights go on etc. All seems OK and a few seconds later dashboard power goes off. No rev counter. Engine runs ok. Headlights, sidelights, heater and radio work. No other electrics getting power. Turn engine off. Electrical humming sound for 3-4 seconds. Turn ignition key to halfway and the electrics seem to work OK. Indicators good. Dashboard good. Hazards good, electric windows work. The battery drains down overnight if I leave it connected. Suggestions please and if parts needed approx cost. Thanks. |
|
 |
|
|
gregozedobe
Vanorak 
Joined: 22 Dec 06 Location: Canberra, Oz Status: Offline Points: -998266 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20 Feb 17 at 13:47 |
|
Do you have any after-market electrics ? eg alarm/security, remote starter, heater, nav, stereo, dashcam, dual battery etc
|
|
|
|
|
Ddd65
Newbie
Joined: 20 Feb 17 Status: Offline Points: 9 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20 Feb 17 at 13:49 |
|
There is an alarm
|
|
|
|
|
T5 TDI
Vanorak
Joined: 05 Nov 05 Status: Offline Points: 3687 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20 Feb 17 at 21:20 |
|
If the battery drains completely overnight you should start there. If you are handy with a meter there are tests you can do to see how big the drain is and then pull out the fuses one by one to see which circuit is affected. A decent auto electrician can do this work.
You could certainly do with a full diagnostic check covering the electrical systems (not just an engine fault code check). Your fault could be the main terminal 30 relay (otherwise known as 109) but that's just a guess. The dash itself or the wiring to it is another good possibility. Generally you will get more sensible replies if you give as much info about your van as you can, such as year, engine size and engine code. Plus any history of recent work or previous work.
Edited by T5 TDI - 20 Feb 17 at 21:21 |
|
|
2004 2.5 174
|
|
|
|
|
gregozedobe
Vanorak
Joined: 22 Dec 06 Location: Canberra, Oz Status: Offline Points: -998266 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20 Feb 17 at 23:33 |
|
For the battery draining issue, initial suspicion would be on the alarm. Sometimes these can stop the van electrics "going to sleep" properly after you have switched off which ends up draining the battery.
Also your new battery may have already been damaged if it has been completely drained a few times (vehicle batteries hate being fully discharged). As a very first step put a voltmeter on the battery and see what voltage readings you get before, during and after starting (immediately after starting and after 5+ minutes of engine running above idle), plus after it has been sitting for 8+ hours.
But it sounds like there may be another problem as well. The fact that the electrics appear to work normally with the ignition switch half way sounds like it might be a useful clue for a good auto electrician when investigating the problems. Edited by gregozedobe - 20 Feb 17 at 23:34 |
|
|
|
|
Ddd65
Newbie
Joined: 20 Feb 17 Status: Offline Points: 9 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20 Feb 17 at 23:42 |
|
Thanks guys. I'll do the initial testing tomorrow.
|
|
|
|
|
gregozedobe
Vanorak
Joined: 22 Dec 06 Location: Canberra, Oz Status: Offline Points: -998266 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 21 Feb 17 at 12:13 |
|
I'm going to make a (very) speculative guess (that's all I can do on-line with limited info) and wonder if the voltage regulator has gone on the Fritz and the alternator is supplying too high a voltage (ie over 14.7V) when the engine is running). Lots of T5 electrical components seem to stop working properly if the voltage gets too high.
|
|
|
|
|
Ddd65
Newbie
Joined: 20 Feb 17 Status: Offline Points: 9 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 21 Feb 17 at 18:11 |
|
Yes it's closer to 17.
Is changing it difficult or do I need a new alternator? |
|
|
|
|
T5 TDI
Vanorak
Joined: 05 Nov 05 Status: Offline Points: 3687 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 21 Feb 17 at 23:55 |
|
You still haven't said what engine your van has. It makes a huge difference if you are hoping to fix it yourself.
Anywhere near 17v (measured across the battery with the engine running) means a faulty regulator on any engine but there are a big differences in the job between the 1.9, 2.0 and 2.5 engines.
|
|
|
2004 2.5 174
|
|
|
|
|
Ddd65
Newbie
Joined: 20 Feb 17 Status: Offline Points: 9 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 22 Feb 17 at 00:22 |
|
It's a 2.5
|
|
|
|
|
T5 TDI
Vanorak
Joined: 05 Nov 05 Status: Offline Points: 3687 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 22 Feb 17 at 08:24 |
|
On the 2.5's you can change the regulator without removing the front end but it does mean some dismantling. It involves taking the vibration damper off the front subframe, the three parts of the front engine mounting and I like to take the power steering pump off because it's only two bolts (all pipes can stay on).
Then undo the alternator bolts so it can be tilted down at the back to gain access to the regulator. It's not a bad job compared to taking the whole front off. If you pm me an email address I can send you a some details and pics concerning most of the job. It goes without saying that battery lead off is the first job! I'm assuming you are measuring the 17v at the battery. If you are seeing 17v being recorded as battery voltage on VCDS that is something different and the fix is not the regulator.
Edited by T5 TDI - 22 Feb 17 at 08:26 |
|
|
2004 2.5 174
|
|
|
|
|
Ddd65
Newbie
Joined: 20 Feb 17 Status: Offline Points: 9 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 23 Feb 17 at 18:18 |
|
I'm using a handheld voltmeter.
Engine off 14.4 V Engine running after 5 min 17.4 V (measured between the two terminals) I'm happy to take a punt on a VR at 14.99 if you think that may be the problem. Been through the two central fuseboxes to try and find the drain but no luck. Re after market electrics I think it's an immobiliser. I have a fob for it but never really used it. (cars don't get robbed up here to in Inverness to the same extent!) There's a small terminal for it below the main light switches. The fobs appeared to lock the car Ok so they were getting power with the engine off. Where is the fuse for this likely to be? Thanks |
|
|
|
|
Ddd65
Newbie
Joined: 20 Feb 17 Status: Offline Points: 9 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 23 Feb 17 at 18:26 |
|
Doh. Didn't have meter set correctly for checking the drain so will work my way through them again tomorrow.
|
|
|
|
|
T5 TDI
Vanorak
Joined: 05 Nov 05 Status: Offline Points: 3687 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 23 Feb 17 at 20:28 |
|
Definitely start by changing the regulator! Because you will begin to cook the new battery and the high voltage can cause problems with other controllers (small slave ECUs) that work the various systems on the van.
You need to have a meter that can measure amps (basic ones often don't) to measure parasitic drain. Remember to leave the van for a few minutes to shut down fully before you test it because it will faff around doing stuff for a while.
Got your pm. I'm on a mobile connection at the moment but I'll get Mrs T5 to send the file on from home tomorrow. Edited by T5 TDI - 23 Feb 17 at 21:00 |
|
|
2004 2.5 174
|
|
|
|
|
T5 TDI
Vanorak
Joined: 05 Nov 05 Status: Offline Points: 3687 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 28 Feb 17 at 16:01 |
|
Did you get the file ok?
|
|
|
2004 2.5 174
|
|
|
|
|
Post Reply
|
|
| Tweet |
| Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |
Topic Options