1987 lt35 recovery truck |
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RetroMercs
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 28 Dec 14 Location: Kent U.K Status: Offline Points: 12 |
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Posted: 28 Dec 14 at 14:33 |
Hi, I am new to this forum, having only just found it whist searching the internet trying to work out whats wrong with my old truck. So to start with, Hello! , I have had my truck for about 6 months, she got 120,000 miles and is in a reasonable state i would say, for her years.
Anyway, to the point... Bearing in mind, i bought her in the summer, she has always been a pain to start cold. The glow plug light stays on for ages and if you didnt give them at least 30 seconds before starting, it wouldnt go. and if she didnt go first time it was like she flooded, and wasnt likely to start at all without a tow. I havnt used her much recently, mainly due to the starting issue. Just before christmas i decided it was time to throw some money at her and see if i could resolve the problem. I started with a new battery and new glow plugs. I was hoping this would make the light go off a bit quicker, but no. and no help with starting either, infact no difference at all. i checked the voltage coming into the relay, and coming out, there seemed to be a bit of a drop, and by the time that gets to the plugs it was down to about 7-8 volts. So next i bought a new relay, still no difference. The fuses for the relays have been replaced by wire, so are un-fused but are making a connection, looks like it has been like this for years. She starts immediatly with a tow! like as soon as you lift the clutch in second at 5 miles an hour. I have bled the injectors and seem to be getting fuel through at each, although i will say the only time it sounds like it wants to start is when i try with all the injectors cracked off. I know this subject has been covered before but i cant really seem to find a good soloution, i have also read that the thing on the dash that looks like a choke knob is something to do with cold starting? i never wanted to mess around with that as i didnt know what it was for. Any help would be grately recieved as i really love my old truck and she needs an mot this month so i have to get her working. thanks |
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light
Vanorak Joined: 25 May 10 Status: Offline Points: 1146 |
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Yes the thing that looks like a choke knob is the cold start lever/knob pull it out like a choke, it advances the pump timing to help starting
If you are sure the glow plugs are working correctly and there are no fuel problems i would be looking at pump timing When you bump start it dose in run smoothly when it fist starts without to much smoke ?
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RetroMercs
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 28 Dec 14 Location: Kent U.K Status: Offline Points: 12 |
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it doesnt run that well, untill its warm, also a bit noisy. Yes there is smoke, quite a lot of smoke, infact many many smokes fill the road...once its warm all would appear to be good, i put the smoke down to all the failed starting attemts but i guess its always done it when it first starts
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icky
Vanorak Joined: 01 Jun 06 Location: Windlesham Status: Offline Points: 1424 |
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Have you checked the earths around the alternator / starter motor and the power connections to these? It could also be air getting into the fuel system and allowing the fuel to drain back to the tank when its parked.
2 simple things to check... (which may or may not give you more ideas, but its something you can rule out fairly quickly)
1 - check the connections to the starter motor and alternator, and check that all the connections on both are tight. It sounds from your post like it is actually turning over and this won't be the problem, but its worth checking.
2. check the return fuel hoses which go between your injectors; if these are leaking, air can get in - thus allowing the fuel to drain back to the tank - you've then got to drag all the fuel a long way up from the tank before it gets to the injectors; LT's don't have a priming/lift pump, its all done by the main pump - so if the fuel's not getting up fast enough, this could give you an issue. You'll also be able to see the fuel input feed to the injector pump; this is usually (from factory) made out of clear plastic hose, so you should be able to see if fuel's going through or if its full of air and bubbles...
Worth noting, also, is that with the glowplugs turned on - I would always expect the voltage level to drop slightly; at what points in the circuit are you measuring the voltage? I know you mentioned that you've measured it just after the fuses etc, but at what point in the circuit is the voltage being lost? Does the van respond well to a jump start / additional battery power? It could be a simple case of the battery being knackered and not having the strength to power things any more.
The cold start knob also does have an effect (although minor) on making LT's easier to start. They should start without it, but will start easier if its enabled as it advances the timing on the fuel pump slightly. It's the little knob to the bottom right corner of the dashboard - and it should pull out about 2-3 inches. The other end of the cable connects to a lever on the underside of the fuel pump (on the side away from the engine - towards the passenger seat) - it's worth checking that this is actually connected and operational, as it's not unheard of for those cables to snap/seize/break/whatever...
I know a lot of what I said is simple stuff, and I don't want to patronise you - so I apologise if it comes across like that... but those are the things I would check first
Good luck - let us know how you get on! :)
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Engine cranes = the ultimate tool to test the tensile strength of Everything you didn't disconnect!
- 2000 MK4 Golf GT TDi - 1994 LT Panel Van - 1997 LT Minibus - 1984 Volvo/VanHool Alizee |
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lorryloader
Yardie Joined: 27 Sep 12 Location: ireland Status: Offline Points: 857 |
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Welcome RetroMercs,please do persevere I'm sure you will get it sorted with the great advise from the other member's.Did you post a pic of your recovery wagon ? It's not displaying on my P.C. What have you got a beaver or spec ? Old L.T'S carry weight well without showing and should serve you well good luck with it.
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LT-45 HIGH TOP + LT-55-BEVERTAIL.Mercedes Atego tilt n slide with lorry loader crane.
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mat_the_cat
Vanorak Joined: 06 May 09 Location: North Wales Status: Offline Points: 1862 |
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Pictures aren't showing for me either...
What colour is the smoke? That could be a clue. |
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Mid engined, 6 cylinder, turbocharged 2 seater - it can only be a VW LT!
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LTCamper89
Vanorak Joined: 18 Apr 12 Location: The Toon Status: Offline Points: 4285 |
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Faceache links never work
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1989 LT28 2.4D Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music
VW LT Camper not Cramper ....at least the roof is not rusting away.... |
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wheresthatgonenow
Groupie Joined: 04 May 14 Location: west midlands Status: Offline Points: 125 |
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you may have a combination of problems regards, pump, air+fuel filter, air in fuel, but, it might be worth you having the starter motor checked out, my reasoning being that if it starts fine with a tow, then the starter may not be turning the engine over quickly enough and also drawing to much from the battery while cranking so plugs are not staying hot long enough, check connections first thou as already said by poster icky,
think you are right with what you say about the smoke from failed starting attempts does she starts fine first time all day after first start ?, my guess is she does till she gets cold again. |
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RetroMercs
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 28 Dec 14 Location: Kent U.K Status: Offline Points: 12 |
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hi, ok sorry been so long getting back to this but i have had a busy start to the year. I just went out with a set of jump leads and connected the wires to the glowplugs, engine side of the underbonnet fuses, direct to the battery. low and behold she started, no immediatly but was firing straight away so i kept in it and she went. no smoke either. This suggests to me that the wiring system for the glow plugs has some issues, maybe a bad earth? i know i only get 7 volts directly at the end of the glow plugs so something is getting through. i have wired the jump lead wire in to the system so i can connect to the battery tomorrow and see if it starts again.
it does start perfectly after the first cold start, and i am fairly sure starter is ok as it cranks over quite well, but i do see where you are coming from with that one |
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RetroMercs
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 28 Dec 14 Location: Kent U.K Status: Offline Points: 12 |
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i have her with a mechanic now as she had some damage to the bed, he says it leaking back but hes not sure why. could it be injector seals?
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RetroMercs
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 28 Dec 14 Location: Kent U.K Status: Offline Points: 12 |
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ok, last cry for help, nothing and no one can make her start cold...i have now been told it could be valve clearances affecting compression, is this a worthy route to go down?
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LTCamper89
Vanorak Joined: 18 Apr 12 Location: The Toon Status: Offline Points: 4285 |
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If all the external stuff is correct, fuel, air, electrics, glowplugs and timing then it is time to look at the 'invisible' things like pump seals and valve clearances.
The bores may also affect a cold start with the rings not sealing properly but as Mat said earlier, the colour of the smoke which fills the street will give a further clue. These are simple vehicles, relatively speaking, and thus the causes of problems are relatively simple too. |
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1989 LT28 2.4D Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music
VW LT Camper not Cramper ....at least the roof is not rusting away.... |
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LTCamper89
Vanorak Joined: 18 Apr 12 Location: The Toon Status: Offline Points: 4285 |
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Unexpected visitors, so a little behind schedule. The most clear version I have is June95, which is a bit late but prior to that is 83.
----------From-----------------via----------------------------To------------------------- Glowplugs 4mm2 Red/White 50A fuses in engine bay. They are also linked at input. 50A fuses 4mm2 Red/White 8/87 on GPRelay. 2/30 on GPRelay 4mm2 Red H2 on rear of fusebox. 6/85 on GPRelay 0.5mm2 Brown Earth near fusebox/engine compartment loom. 1/T on GPRelay 0.5mm2 Blue/White Engine Temp Sender1 Eng Temp Send2 1mm2 Brown Earth near fusebox. C10 1.5mm2 Red/Black 7/50 on GPRelay. C6 0.5mm2 White/Red 3L on GPRelay. A12 1mm2 Black 4/86 on GPRelay. Fuses have been known to break down and not show any outward signs, that is cracks. If the new relay has not helped then hopefully the above information will enable you to rule out wiring issues. |
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1989 LT28 2.4D Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music
VW LT Camper not Cramper ....at least the roof is not rusting away.... |
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wheresthatgonenow
Groupie Joined: 04 May 14 Location: west midlands Status: Offline Points: 125 |
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think i would be looking to injectors being tested now, you said you have tested for fuel to these, but have not read that they have been tested, got to be worth having them bench tested at a specialist, and maybe the pump as well
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