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AAZ Bluestar with flipped Audi box

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GavB95 View Drop Down
Yardie
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GavB95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug 16 at 20:26
Cheers mate, they've got your name on them if I change my mind! 👍

I've not managed to do anything with them yet, the van keeps throwing more problems at me that are taking priority. Now needing to replace the fuel tank after I filled it up and it decided to pour out all over the street. 😡

Bluestar T3 running AAZ/flipped box
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fufflenarnia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug 16 at 22:55
It'll be the vent pipes or sender seal, I had the sender seal out 5 times before it properly held fuel.

I pressure tested it before refitting it, after the 4th attempt, it's a shit job.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bromy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep 16 at 13:18
Alright Gav, I'm considering avo 70 springs to bring my rear end up once the subie conversions underway. Any particular reason you've swapped yours out?
Cheers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GavB95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep 16 at 10:27
Originally posted by fufflenarnia fufflenarnia wrote:

It'll be the vent pipes or sender seal, I had the sender seal out 5 times before it properly held fuel.

I pressure tested it before refitting it, after the 4th attempt, it's a shit job.

I've dropped the tank and it's turned out to be a few pin holes where the loom has rubbed the paint away and rust has set in. The old tank was a right mess so it's been satisfying to clean up the chassis and get a nice fresh tank on there. It's a shitty job but I imagine it'd be much worse on a petrol van, at least you can slosh diesel all over the place and not worry about blowing yourself up. LOL


You can see the build up of crud along the leading edge of the tank...

New tank...

Painted...

and waxed...

I've added a light smear of RTV silicone on the grommets and sender seal so hope it doesn't piss out everywhere again once it refitted! 

Couple of other bits are being replaced whilst I'm under there I've put in brickwerks 100% ethanol breather pipes, new filler neck retainer, and replaced the accelerator cable/polymide tube and clutch pipe (solid line from tank area back plus a BW braided rear section). I've also replaced the rear brake lines and flexis and have a new old stock Ate master cylinder to go in as I've noticed the pedal slowly creeping downwards if pressure is applied steadily.











Bluestar T3 running AAZ/flipped box
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GavB95 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GavB95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep 16 at 10:32
Originally posted by Bromy Bromy wrote:

Alright Gav, I'm considering avo 70 springs to bring my rear end up once the subie conversions underway. Any particular reason you've swapped yours out?
Cheers

The Avo -70's are spot on mate, I've still got them fitted and I'm really pleased with them. 

The set I've sold came as a complete kit with the matching Avo adjustable dampers. I've just split the springs out and the dampers will be replacing the Bilstein B4's I'd put on my van. Big smile
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Scimdiesel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scimdiesel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep 16 at 11:07
With the tank out it would be very easy to change those front to rear plastic coolant pipes. 
Without engineers science is just philosophy..... Joined the revolution with a 18 year old TDI :
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GavB95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep 16 at 12:17
Originally posted by Scimdiesel Scimdiesel wrote:

With the tank out it would be very easy to change those front to rear plastic coolant pipes. 

I know mate, I've been trying to decide whether to do them whilst it's out. Confused

I could do with replacing them at some point though as one of the pipes has been cut about 10 inch short at the rear and had a section of plastic pipe bodged on. Thing is that bodge has been done before I bought the van and it's been ok for the 3 years I've had the van... but it does annoy me every time I see it. 
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GavB95 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GavB95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct 16 at 12:33
The van's back together and has a fresh MOT after a couple of weekends crawling about underneath. 

I took note of Scimdiesels advice and bought a set of stainless lines from Brickwerks to replace the plastic ones. Glad I did too as the old ones were buggered at the front and close to letting go...

I've put a new header tank in whilst the coolant was drained down...

I ended up replacing the rubber heater hoses than run the length of the van. They had gone soft, expanded and blistered after years of sitting on the diesel soaked mud. I did the line that T's into these from the back of the cylinder head too using a silicone reducer pipe from ASH. 

 

Tank going back in...

Old bodged clutch line and nice new braided one (no more sheared pipes Barry! Wink Thumbs Up)...

Also replaced 2 CV joints on the offside shaft... 

I've rebuilt the steering column with new bushes in the coupling and a new bush at the base where it transfers to the relay coupling. This was the original riveted bush and was pretty badly split so I'm glad I've caught it before it let go. 

and I finally got around to wiring up the foglight too.  

I've got a set of Avo adjustable dampers to fit next. Big smile 





Edited by GavB95 - 03 Oct 16 at 12:33
Bluestar T3 running AAZ/flipped box
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Bromy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bromy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct 16 at 13:22
Make sure to get the front shocks the right way round in the control arm Gav. you want the adjustment knobs facing eachother on the inside, otherwise you cant get your fingers in the void to adjust them as once the vans dropped back down the shocks pivot out slightly at the bottom Thumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GavB95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 16 at 09:54
Nice one, cheers mate. Thumbs Up 

I'm thinking of taping over the adjusters with Denso grease tape once I've got them set up. Thinking it might help to stop them seizing up. Might not be necessary on the fronts but I can see the rears getting a good lashing of muck.

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Bromy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bromy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 16 at 13:27
Not a bad idea the grease tape, my rear adjusters are facing towards the arse end and get a hose down every wash
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Scimdiesel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scimdiesel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Oct 16 at 09:17
The problem with any of these sorts of things is that if you 100% seal the adjuster your fine but if any moisture gets it its often worse than leaving them open as they get the chance to dry out.  I work at SPAX and the best solution to date has been to pack them with grease at build.    I've tried all sorts of fancy materials and coatings but zinc plating and dollup of grease has proved to work best..   On the AVO dampers while they are off  if you can undo the Grub screw and remove the knob.  Make sure you don't loose the tiny indexing pin and spring.   Now you should be looking at a disk with some slots in (the indexing pin makes the clicks as it passes the slots).    Wiggle and push with your thumb the adjuster screw and spray some chain lube in the hole wiggling it about to get as much in as possible.  Wipe off the excess after its set.   Then smear some axle grease over the area .  Refit the knob with indexing pin and spring.         The rear dampers don't get a continual wash and actually stay quite dry so they should stay good for years.  One of my Norwegen customers used to cut bicycle tube cut into a short band and place it over the lower half of the damper.    But realistically we don't need to do that.........Alternatively the better solution would be to buy some Brickwerks Spec Spax dampers  :)   Sorry my impartial advise broke.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Simba0450 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 17 at 14:43
Very interesting thread... all sorts of good info.  :D

What caught my eye particularly was the registration number - I thought this was the van I have just bought!!!  Mine is G770 PWT, also a BlueStar, so very close.  But a good thread.  Thanks for all the pics and issues (and their resolution)  :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Swabiandude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jun 18 at 11:54
Originally posted by GavB95 GavB95 wrote:




So, to recap: gear box fits rather nicely with a (purchased?) adapter plate and without bell housing machining?

Btw. how come you have the steering wheel on the the left side, being located in the UK?

Cheers!


Edited by Swabiandude - 20 Jun 18 at 12:08
Been there, done that. After years of abstinence contemplating a new bus project.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Titus A Duxass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jun 18 at 05:17
Swabiandude - lots of people drive vans/buses with the wheel on the left in the UK. There more LHD vans than RHD vans.

Grüß aus Sachsen


Edited by Titus A Duxass - 21 Jun 18 at 05:17
Bollocks to it all!!
51°24′N 12°52′E
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