Water pump stuck! PLEASE HELP!! |
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zedzedeleven
Vanorak Joined: 05 Jan 06 Location: west cumbria Status: Offline Points: 1169 |
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That official tool looks like it is made out of poor quality alloy.
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1.9 85ps swb 2004 in friesan green.
bring me sunshine. |
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P38irl
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 15 Dec 18 Location: Ireland Status: Offline Points: 16 |
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well i bit the bullet and dropped the engine this evening.
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T5 TDI
Vanorak Joined: 05 Nov 05 Status: Offline Points: 3687 |
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In the second pic it looks like the top bolt is still in the pump!
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2004 2.5 174
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P38irl
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 15 Dec 18 Location: Ireland Status: Offline Points: 16 |
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No buddy they are out.
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T5 TDI
Vanorak Joined: 05 Nov 05 Status: Offline Points: 3687 |
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Oh good! Now you've got all that room, if you can get a big slide hammer and make up something to fit it to the pump shaft it should come out ok. You will have to see if that damage to the gearbox casting is important or not. Is it one of the bolt holes for the tin plate?
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2004 2.5 174
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P38irl
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 15 Dec 18 Location: Ireland Status: Offline Points: 16 |
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the damaged part is only to hold the bolt for the tool, normally there is a plastic clip that holds a cable in place. not too worried. but you see the amount of force that has been applied to make that aluminium collapse like that. it mad.
engine is now suspended from the water pump and been dowsed in penetrating fluid. i will leave it over night and see if i can get it to start loosening this way first. |
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T5 TDI
Vanorak Joined: 05 Nov 05 Status: Offline Points: 3687 |
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Maybe if your luck's in.. I once had an old 6 cyl Jag engine suspended overnight to get a cylinder head seized on its studs off and it never moved! Good luck though.
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2004 2.5 174
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P38irl
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 15 Dec 18 Location: Ireland Status: Offline Points: 16 |
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yeah if it doesent work i will drill in behind the casing to the eye of the pump and hit with a drift to see if i can get it moving
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T5 TDI
Vanorak Joined: 05 Nov 05 Status: Offline Points: 3687 |
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Be careful not to damage where either of the seals sits and be sure no bits or swarf can fall inside! Before you start drilling or heating it might be worth bolting something under the nut and using a giant lever (4 or 5 feet long and not bendy) against a block of wood on the gearbox as I mentioned. Always works if the bar is big enough.
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2004 2.5 174
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P38irl
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 15 Dec 18 Location: Ireland Status: Offline Points: 16 |
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Well to say i had problems getting this pump out is an understatement. I spent 2 weeks and I almost threw in the towel, i spent days heating cooling trying to pull it out when eventually the shaft from the pump came out and i was left with just the race which i couldt cut. I ended up today welding a towing eye in to the race and using a highlift jack on the engine in an attempt to remove the pump. still no joy but under massive load i began to hit the eye with a hammer and the race began coming out with every strike. after removing the race i then cut through to the 2 10mm holes i drilled close to the wall of the pump housing and had to beat and break the pump out bit by bit. it was a horrible job and i really thought it had beaten me.
after i removed the old pump i cleaned the rust from the inside of the pump housing using a die grinder and offered up the new pump and it seems to fit well. As the engine is out i will be doing a few small jobs and hope to have the engine in by next weekend Look at the bend under load All done
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T5 TDI
Vanorak Joined: 05 Nov 05 Status: Offline Points: 3687 |
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Well done P38IRL That was a bad one! I have only done a few 2.5 water pumps but I have always used my own basic tool (plus a good long bar). I had heard that the proper tool can break. When I retired I was asked several times if I wanted to part with my old home made tool which I had always leant to anyone that needed it. But I'm keeping it for as long as I have the van. I'm guessing that your problem is not unknown. If anyone wants to make one it's an old BMC engine hook thinned down a bit by the hole so that the nut on the pump shaft fits with the max amount of thread possible. The pump nut needs to be reversed so that the captive washer doesn't obstruct the tool. It ends up with 3/4 worth of the nut thread used which is enough to pull out the pump without stripping. The tool is stiffened up by a couple of welded corners. This gives you something solid with which to lever out the pump with a 4 foot bar and a block of wood to protect the gearbox. If you have the luxury of having the engine on the deck like P38IRL I'd go for a big slide hammer on it before getting really serious with grinding tools or heat. But whatever works for you is good. |
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2004 2.5 174
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