16" front outer CV noise question |
Post Reply |
Author | |
sandwedge
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 18 Aug 09 Location: Shropshire Status: Offline Points: 26 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: 24 Aug 09 at 21:57 |
Ok here goes my first tech question.
Just been reading some of the old post regarding front outer CV's and the clicking noise they make when they are on the way out. Just twigged, thats what my van is doing on full lock, (16" with front diff lock). Ok so I guess that if they are already making this noise, that a grease repack is going to do nothing? Next question who would you recommend quality wise or is there nothing in it? bernd-jaeger complete drive shaft for 285 euro Busman front outer only 248euro or syncro-service front outer only 208 euros thanks all Ian Edited by sandwedge - 24 Aug 09 at 22:52 |
|
herr_jensen
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 12 Jan 09 Location: Copenhagen Status: Offline Points: 32 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Hey there,
You probably have many miles left before your current CV joint dies. When the clicking noise turns to a horrible grinding, and you are genuinely afraid when you accelerate, then it's time to drive around with a spare CV joint in the trunk, while you contemplate how you will replace it ; ). I have a 16" myself and I replaced my front right one a couple of month ago. It is really easy and straight forward. The drive shaft consists of 3 parts: 2 CV joints and a connecting rod (sorry about the 'un-mechanical' names I give things, I haven't got a clue what they are called in English). You only have to replace the CV joint that makes the noise. While you are down there you inspect all 8 rubber ... thingies... that protects the CV joints. If any of them are torn or shows signs of age, you want to replace them. I was off-roading and somehow tore off one of my rubber procetors. Thereby dirt, rocks and small rodents have free access to get stuck in the joint itself. This, ofcourse, results in the death of the joint. I live in Denmark and everything is expenisve here. Really. Expenisve. I paid DKK 600, which roughly translates into GBP 70 for my brand new 16" CV joint. A new rubber protector ...thingie... costs around DKK 100, so my guess is you can buy what you need locally, and much cheaper than what those web shops offer them for. If you are really strapped for cash you can replace the grease in the damaged joint. Personally, I think it's a waste of time, but it might buy you some more miles. Keep in mind your rubber protector is probably damaged, since it has let in dirt in the first place, so it's a bit like pissing in your pants to keep warm. You grease it up by letting the joint sleep in a diesel bath over night and the following morning carefully pressing new grease in with your thumbs. Continue to do so until you can't possibly press more in anywhere in the joint. Fill the rubber protector with some grease too and screw the joint back on. Be VERY careful not to let the balls fall out as they have different size because of wear. If you replace any balls you have caused more damage than you had before. I will gladly dig out some pics I have of the procedure if you want. Cheers, - Jensen |
|
sandwedge
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 18 Aug 09 Location: Shropshire Status: Offline Points: 26 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Hi thank for the advice, have done CV joint before on my other volkswagens, so know what to do.
Rubber gaiters are all good, but getting a tapping noise on full lock, not sure if its the CV or not, so think I will strip and re-grease any way. If you repack CV's every 10 to 15K miles it will extend there life the same as oil changes on an engine. I just wanted to know who sells good quality CV joints. I know for experience that the quality of many of the parts for aircooled VW has gotten much worse over the last 10 years or so, so dont want to pay a small fortune for poor parts. |
|
herr_jensen
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 12 Jan 09 Location: Copenhagen Status: Offline Points: 32 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Sorry, I misunderstood you a bit then : )
Replacing a CV joint on a Syncro is a bit more complicated and tedious than any other VW I can think of. The grease used in the joints has graphite in it (that's why it's black), and is extremely durable. It will last 'a lifetime' if not polluted. Changing the grease every 15k miles is, in my opinion, very exaggerated. The good thing, of course, is you won't forget to regularly check the rubber gaiters (as I have a tendency to do). Remember you probably can't reuse the cork seal, so you have to fabricate new ones. I will, at one point, buy the heavy duty ones that can cope with steeper angles. Then you can get insane ground clearance without destroying your CV's : ) Cheers, - Jensen |
|
sandwedge
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 18 Aug 09 Location: Shropshire Status: Offline Points: 26 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Hi Jensen
I didnt think that front outer CV joint and stub axles were avalable in heavy duty spec?
If they are who does them?
Thanks
Ian
|
|
manxman
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 02 Nov 07 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 35 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
the 16" front outer with diff lock are unique and untill recently unavailable, then Syncro services listed them on their site.
|
|
Post Reply | |
Tweet |
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |