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AengusOg
Newbie Joined: 10 Aug 09 Location: Angus Scotland Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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Posted: 10 Aug 09 at 09:33 |
Hi there
I've just bought a VW LT 35D Horsebox, 1988, with, I'm told, an Audi 2.4 engine in it. The engine seems to run a bit hot, although it's not boiled up or anything.........in fact when it stops after a run, there is no sound at all from the engine. But the warning light will sometimes come on after a few minutes' of running time, and comes on intermittently during journeys. The other day I noticed a drip of water underneath when it was stationary, after a short journey. Also, it's emitting a lot of black exhaust. I'm being told a change of oil and filter may help here. There is a man near me who does a lot of work for fellow horsebox owners, and I'm taking it to him this week, for a check and service. Is there anything anyone can tell me about this model which may help? I want to keep it, and I am prepared to spend some money to get it right. Thanks. |
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AengusOg
Newbie Joined: 10 Aug 09 Location: Angus Scotland Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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Ok......so I've had a look through all 21 pages in this section, and I've got a few pointers already.
I'll change the thermometer, check all pipes and fittings, and flush out the coolant system (how do I do that?)........then I'll consider the fact that these engines seem to run slightly hot anyway. Oh, and I'll put the cheapest anti freeze I can find in This is a great forum and i think I'll learn lots here. |
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northyorkspaul
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 14 Dec 08 Status: Offline Points: 20 |
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would'nt put the cheapest antifreeze in......forget which it is but some of the cheap stuff is no good better of with a quality one,esp if you want to keep it.Black smoke is generaly fuel perhaps injectors could do with checking plus air filter change be good....
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AengusOg
Newbie Joined: 10 Aug 09 Location: Angus Scotland Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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Ha, thanks.............some of the older posts suggested that the modern and expensive antifreezes didn't suit these older engines, but I take your point.
I had a chat with the local man who does a lot of work for horsebox owners, and he is going to get into it this week. He was at a friend's place last night fitting a prop shaft to a van............at 10.30pm! I told him about this forum, too. |
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davidd
Groupie Joined: 30 Dec 08 Status: Offline Points: 100 |
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Forgive me if you know the following ...
How do you know its overheating? Is the temp gauge reading high or are you talking about the red light located in the display?
If the latter then this just means low coolant level (so just top-up)
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icky
Vanorak Joined: 01 Jun 06 Location: Windlesham Status: Offline Points: 1424 |
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Red flashing light, as davidd says, means low coolant level as well as "overheating". Could also be a symptom of air bubbles in the system, or just low coolant!
- Is your engine a petrol or a diesel variant?
- Whereabouts is your "coolant temp" needle resting while you drive?
Sounds like you have a coolant leak, if you get a chance, try and find where it's coming from... its a fairly simple thing to trace! :)
Black smoke is also a symptom of fuelling usually, try changing/cleaning the Diesel fuel filters
Edit: Oh, and welcome to the brick-yard! Edited by icky - 11 Aug 09 at 16:17 |
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Engine cranes = the ultimate tool to test the tensile strength of Everything you didn't disconnect!
- 2000 MK4 Golf GT TDi - 1994 LT Panel Van - 1997 LT Minibus - 1984 Volvo/VanHool Alizee |
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thal
Yardie Joined: 29 Apr 08 Location: Bolton Status: Offline Points: 514 |
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mine never runs hotter than 1/4 up the guage except when im towing the caravan uphill ( have we been here before?}
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2.4 td high top home conversion And2.4td LWB high top van
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icky
Vanorak Joined: 01 Jun 06 Location: Windlesham Status: Offline Points: 1424 |
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i wasn't askin you!!! we all know your engines like a fridge, ha ha!
i was referrin to the horsebox that is apparently getting hot...
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Engine cranes = the ultimate tool to test the tensile strength of Everything you didn't disconnect!
- 2000 MK4 Golf GT TDi - 1994 LT Panel Van - 1997 LT Minibus - 1984 Volvo/VanHool Alizee |
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AengusOg
Newbie Joined: 10 Aug 09 Location: Angus Scotland Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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Ok thanks everyone.
The needle goes quite quickly up to about the 3/4 mark and hovers around there for a while, then dips back to just over halfway. If I come to a bit of a gradient, it rises again to about 3/4. It's never gone higher. As for the warning light.........it can flash from the word go, or it can go out after a few seconds, but may come on at any time without seemingly having any correlation with the needle. The light can flash with regular 'beats', or it can flicker as well, so I'm not entirely sure about the electrical connection of it either. Having very little understanding of engines and their workings, I am at a disadvantage when it comes to good advice from folks like yourselves, but I am making an effort to familiarise myself with this particular one, and I am determined to identify and tackle the various systems and any faults they may have. The coolant reservoir seems not to be losing any water, although I did notice a drip of water below the engine when at the service station the other day. I watched for another drip and waited about twenty seconds before I saw one..............is the reservoir the only point at which I should top up, or is there another way of getting water into the system? I know some engines require the rad to be topped up, regardless of the level in the res. I do suspect a minor leak in the system, and I imagine that may lead to airlocks, so I'll try to suss that first. I'll find my way around this engine, with help, in due course...........I'm off to look at it now. Thanks again. |
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AengusOg
Newbie Joined: 10 Aug 09 Location: Angus Scotland Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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Actually, davidd, I don't think the engine is necessarily overheating.......it was the behaviour of the needle and flashing light which got me worrying. I've used it on a few journeys of around ten miles and haven't had any sounds from the engine on stopping, nor have I seen steam or anything.
icky, it's a diesel engine. I will check/change all filters this week (or more realistically, I'll get it done for me, the first time at least). Watch this space.........ha ha |
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davidd
Groupie Joined: 30 Dec 08 Status: Offline Points: 100 |
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The coolant gauge needle movement seems normal. The red lamp means top up the resevoir (which is under the engine cover, right at the front - by your bum!). 5 minute job. The lamp always rapidly flashes on key-on then should go off. At other times it will come on if the sensor sees a low level. But it may well go off again if you go down a hill (water level rises), or even as the water heats up (expands). But it could be simply be a poor connection - you will know when you see the level.
As you say, you may still have a small coolant leak which should be checked - are you sure its water that is dripping (smell it?) Where does it seem to come from (front or rear of engine)?
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drunkenmaster
Groupie Joined: 23 Oct 08 Location: Bath, UK Status: Offline Points: 251 |
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Get your guy to pressure check the cooling system to see if there's a leak. Also check connection to level sensor on the expansion tank, 2 spade connectors.
Flashing light without needle all the way up means coolant level low. Have a look at the various hoses, especially where the jubilee clips go round as they can cut in. If the needle always tends towards 3/4 either a new thermostat is needed or the sensor for the temp gauge is playing up. My guess would be thermostat as they don't seem too great and I need a new one after only a couple of months. Seems there are 2 different issues to deal with here, both pretty cheap, hopefully. Good Luck |
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1991 LT35E 2.4TD (volvo transplant)
http://ltcamper.blogspot.com/ |
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AengusOg
Newbie Joined: 10 Aug 09 Location: Angus Scotland Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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I checked all the hoses yesterday, and found no leaks. Then I topped the water right up in the reservoir and ran the engine whilst keeping an eye.
The red light had stopped flashing, due to the top up but, as I watched, I noticed a bead of water appear through the cap of the reservoir and, as the water expanded, the bead turned into a trickle. It seems someone, at some time, has cut a cross-shape in the cap for some reason. This is allowing the water level to drop fairly rapidly, as the light started flashing within a mile of the house when I went for a short run. Would there be any valid reason for this, or should I replace the cap with a waterproof one? Please excuse my ignorance. Edited by AengusOg - 14 Aug 09 at 08:20 |
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drunkenmaster
Groupie Joined: 23 Oct 08 Location: Bath, UK Status: Offline Points: 251 |
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Water should only be topped up to mark on reservoir. Cap shouldn't leak, it has a pressure release built in to it. It's worth getting a new one for the sake of £2.50
Pressure release is only there to stop damage to the radiator if the pressure gets above normal. |
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1991 LT35E 2.4TD (volvo transplant)
http://ltcamper.blogspot.com/ |
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davidd
Groupie Joined: 30 Dec 08 Status: Offline Points: 100 |
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Can you post a photo of the 'damage'?
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AengusOg
Newbie Joined: 10 Aug 09 Location: Angus Scotland Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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Hmmm.........it's beginning to look bad, isn't it? I went to get a new cap today, but ended up at the scrapyard. The guy there said he thought the cap had split owing to the build up of gases in the system. He mentioned 'gassy bubble', and said I should top the water right to the brim, have the engine idling, then watch for small gaseous bubbles to appear and then, if they turned into a larger bubble, that I should try to get a smell of the bubble when it surfaced. He reckons I should smell diesel as the bubble bursts, and that would be a sign that the head needs some kind of attention..........either the gasket is 'tired' and needs renewed, or the head may be cracked/warped. He advised me not to try to seal the water reservoir, as that would lead, probably, to a burst in the radiator, as you say. He also said I should take the thermostat out altogether. The present reservoir cap has three tiny holes in it which appear to be factory made, and it has an inverted cone inside with a small hole in the point. Pretty normal, it seems, but I will replace it anyway, as it's got that split in the top outer face. Even if it is the head, I think I'll get it done, unless it will be horrendously expensive. I'm certainly learning a wee bit about engines by asking on this forum, so that's one bonus. Edited by AengusOg - 14 Aug 09 at 19:46 |
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davidd
Groupie Joined: 30 Dec 08 Status: Offline Points: 100 |
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Make sure you get more than one opinion. Sounds to me like a few things you have been told are suspect and you will end up paying a fortune for no reason if you are not careful.
The guys on this forum are most knowledgable.
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thal
Yardie Joined: 29 Apr 08 Location: Bolton Status: Offline Points: 514 |
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If the cap isnt sealing properly then the system will overheat it needs to be under pressure to keep cool
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2.4 td high top home conversion And2.4td LWB high top van
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drunkenmaster
Groupie Joined: 23 Oct 08 Location: Bath, UK Status: Offline Points: 251 |
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As Thal said, the system needs to be under pressure. The increase in pressure increases the activation energy of the water so effectively increases the boiling point of the water.
No pressure = boiling coolant = bad Scrap yard guy is also right, if you have pressure over and above normal you need to check the coolant gasses. You can get a simple tester you put in place of the reservoir cap to check for combustion gasses in the coolant. If you've got combusion gasses in the coolant you've got problems. |
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1991 LT35E 2.4TD (volvo transplant)
http://ltcamper.blogspot.com/ |
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AengusOg
Newbie Joined: 10 Aug 09 Location: Angus Scotland Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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Ok, I'm listening.
A local garage owner (friend) has offered to pressure test the coolant system for me, so I'll get that done in the early part of next week. That should help a bit in terms of diagnosis. Thanks again guys. |
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