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JX Removal Advice

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1360rallye View Drop Down
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    Posted: 23 Feb 09 at 20:12

Could I have your hints/tips/things to avoid at all costs on the easiest way to remove/replace a dead JX TD.  I'll be working on a driveway, have a couple of trolley jacks/axle stands and will be hiring an engine crane/lift thingy.

Unfortunately cos the engines dead I can't drive it onto my ramps.  How far off the ground do I need to get the rear to slide the engine out?
 
Do I have to remove engine and gearbox as one unit or is it easier to remove/replace the engine on its own?
 
Is it realistic to be able to do the swap in a day?
 
Andrew
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote badger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb 09 at 20:17
Bit of info on this thread might help?
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb 09 at 20:36
Originally posted by 1360rallye 1360rallye wrote:

Unfortunately cos the engines dead I can't drive it onto my ramps.  How far off the ground do I need to get the rear to slide the engine out?
 
About this high - my engine was dead too.  I just lined up the ramps, put it in reverse, then turned the key and drove it up on the starter.
 
 
Originally posted by 1360rallye 1360rallye wrote:

 
Do I have to remove engine and gearbox as one unit or is it easier to remove/replace the engine on its own?
 
I found it much easier to do it with the box and engine in one lump.  It can be done seperate though.  Be careful with the drivesahft bolts - some are not hex head, but 12 spline instead.  If you use an allen key on 'em you'll be in a world of despair.  Save yourself the trouble, spend the 20 quid at halfools and get a set of spline bits.    
 
Originally posted by 1360rallye 1360rallye wrote:

 
Is it realistic to be able to do the swap in a day?
 
 
 
Yes - if you worked non stop and had no problems along the way.  But you will, so I'd advise allowing a weekend.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joker_Club Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb 09 at 15:14

Big axle stands or ramps as above, forget the engine crane thing. Support the g/box through the engine hatch with a good strap and a length of 3" x 2". Use a trolley jack and a solid board underneath the sump, maybe a block of wood on the outer edge of the board to support the turbo side, it sits level in the van so will come out level. Undo everything except the engine bars, set up on the jack/board, remove the final bolts at the REAR of the engine bars, bars will swing down out of the way, wobble the engine backwards off the g/box shaft then lower away, check the g/box is supported properly.

Same in reverse to get it back in, take time to get it chocked level on the jack/board and it`ll go straight up and in. I`d give yerself two days to do it if you`ve gotta swap parts from the old engine to the new one, when you rush you make mistakes, shear things off etc. Did mine in 2 days easily, gave plenty of time at the end of the job for bleeding up etc without it being a mad rush in the dark.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1360rallye Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb 09 at 20:44
Thanks for the advice guys - I think the hardest job is going to be getting it high enough off the ground as the engine's so tight that the starter won't even turn it over so I can't drive it up the ramps on the starter! Will work with axle stands blocks and trolley jack to get it high enough.  Taking Friday off so I can have two clear days to complete the swap.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dub dub campers Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb 09 at 21:16
safest option is to get two wheels flat under each wheel either side which keeps van a lot steady than axel stands and gives enough room to drop engine and box and drag to rear, forget engine hoist, get large trolly jack with cradle or wooded block, disconnect all electics, pipe work, cables etc... then jack up pop wheels under wheels each side, disconnect drive shafts, clutch pipe, gear linkage, earth strap..etc.. get jack under balance weight front to back, undo bolts from engine bars to body and gearbox, and jobs a good ' n
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