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charliem 
Yardie 
Joined: 07 Nov 07 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 121 |
 Posted: 09 Jan 08 at 17:00 |
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wow. my attempts are pretty amateur aren't they. I bought a couple of boxes of the dynamat, and did the roof, rear arches (bit more thoroughly than rest of vehicle), rear panels, side doors, pulled flooring up at front just enough to put a bit on front arches, and stuck a few strips on the rear lid. Your post did remind me of the alloy problem, commented on elsewhere. |
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MultiplexMan
Newbie 
Joined: 22 Jul 07 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 5 |
Posted: 09 Jan 08 at 21:08 |
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Hi charliem, I've used two bulk packs of Dynamat Extreme. This has done two layers in the cargo bay - side panels (3), C pillars voids (2), tail gate, sliding door, rear wheel arches (inside). It has also covered a single layer on the roof, bonnet and engine cover (underside of plastic). My order of RaamAudio BXT (same value - twice the area!) has done the wheel arches - outside under liners (all), and the front liners. I have enough left to do two layers in the front doors, single layer in the cabin roof & floor, and perhaps an extra layer on the firewall. I held back on a second layer on the cargo roof as the thermal insulation and Ensolite are going to help here and the deadener could be better employed elsewhere. It actually has been pretty "affordable" with purchases off eBay. If I was local in the US, I would have halved my costs The biggest practical issues has been access to surfaces and ensuring finished thickness do not foul the refitting of panels. Cheers, MM PS I've searched for that alloy problem as I wanted to add my photos - if you find it PM me pls. |
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charliem
Yardie
Joined: 07 Nov 07 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 121 |
Posted: 11 Jan 08 at 00:51 |
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Hi, well £140 for two packs of basic dynamat (40 ft each I think, no idea) was enough. Undoubtedly living in UK I paid 3 times more than elsewhere. The alloy link is http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4639&a mp;KW=rule |
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MultiplexMan
Newbie
Joined: 22 Jul 07 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 5 |
Posted: 11 Jan 08 at 10:44 |
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Dynamat Original costs AUD212 in a bulk pack, Dynamat Extreme AUD210 in the same quantity. I went for Extreme So GBP70 (AUD150) for a bulk pack - no we still get ripped off in Oz Remember you could buy twice as much RaamAudio BXT for the same cost of a bulk pack of Dynamat Extreme...on a nice smooth roll too. Yeah - it all adds up. It's the most I ever spent on sound deadening ever. It's the most I ever spent on ICE too... Must be something about the T5 Edited by MultiplexMan |
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charliem
Yardie
Joined: 07 Nov 07 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 121 |
Posted: 20 Jan 08 at 00:17 |
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I'm quite happy with the stuff though. Even though it is a good product, the thing that swayed me from research was its heat resistance. They blow torched all the leading products, and that one held far better than the rest. I don't want bits of rubber and foil slopping around once all the panels are back, so went with that. I finished wiring ages ago, but I've at long last finished the carpeting so the sub built below the sleeping area can go in, the rear tweeters can go in on the carpeted door cards and the rear woofers go in small boxes I'll make next weekend under the rear seat - a lot of wasted space there. I'll attatch to seat so they move up with it. Not worked out design for these yet, but plenty of fixing points so should be easy enough. Will be nice to hear the equipment throught more than the front door panels. I'd agree about the T5 though... I'd not spent anything like that, but like others here, I've always wanted a VW van, and intend on keeping it a long time, so I'm putting more effort into it than I have on any other vehicle! |
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MultiplexMan
Newbie
Joined: 22 Jul 07 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 5 |
Posted: 22 Jan 08 at 22:02 |
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Hi charliem, Whilst on site I have the evenings to ponder/research my sound system. I found out that Dynaudio run the woofers in parallel. It makes sense since they are 8 Ohm units. The detail that convinced me was the use of a 4 pin plug for the woofers whilst the tweeters and mids are connected using the standard 2 pin plug. This is confirmed by the electrical flow diagram. Last R&R I took the cover off the Lear 10 channel amplifier only to discover it is further "glued" together to prevent further inspection. So I shall definitely shelve it until I find an application. My current plan is to make new door cards (fibreglass - fun, fun, fun |
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charliem
Yardie
Joined: 07 Nov 07 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 121 |
Posted: 12 Feb 08 at 00:43 |
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MM, what did you do about wheel arches? I've been busy doing other things...building kitchen unit/carpet lining etc, but I found two major things rendering hi quality audio equipment sounding like internet radio... 1. Road noise is the major noise, not engine noise - and you'd said dynamat on front wheel arches was the biggest improvement. Did you apply this to outside or inside of arches? I've a little on inside, but I don't know if outside will help: does road noise come in through these or through the whole vehicle? 2. the 125Hz band on the equalizer contains a lot of the low mids: I've got this set right down on the graphic to avoid the high bass boom. Do you get that too? I don't know yet why this happens, but it's the same crap that the old speakers / HU did, and the old undampened doors made. If it is the doors, I'm going to have small boxed rears so it won't matter so much, but I won't know until I've built those if it is the housing (doors) or the vehicle that resonates in this band. Lowering the band on the graphic looses far too much as it needs taming accurately - it is a narrow band that causes the problem. I noticed it really clearly on Ben Folds 'philosophy', where the bass just booms around the vehicle - so if I find what note does it that will help. I've also prepared various slow frequency sweeps in this region as tracks on my ipod ready to play and record, then do frequency analysis on. I just thought I'd wait until I've built the rears which is down the 'to do' list at the mo. Will of course post what I find. Once I've found exactly where in that band the boom is I'll use simple LCR notch filter on the bass units to trim that out, and post whatever I use, as give or take a bit, most decent 4 ohm car speakers will have vaguely similar TS parameters and the same improvement with the filter, and it shouldn't be too hard for anyone to put three components (inductor, capacitor, resistor) together across the bass speaker. Hope all's going well with the install |
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MultiplexMan
Newbie
Joined: 22 Jul 07 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 5 |
Posted: 12 Feb 08 at 21:57 |
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Hi charliem, I can answer #1. I took off each wheel, and the plastic arch liner. I put RaamAudio BXT directly on the steel arch BEHIND the plastic arch liner and on the INSIDE (side facing the steel arch) of the plastic arch liner. I found this helped with road noise.
Be very carefull adding sound deadener to the liners as it can make refitting very difficult. I still think this can be improved as there is a significant air gap between the plastic arch liner and the steel arch - above the "rib line". I have been following some work on some other forums where expanding foam used inside plastic bags (just like the courier foam pack kits) has been used. Alternatively I might try adding some closed cell EVA foam directly to the inner steel wheel arch (behind the plastic arch liner) to help take out the lower frequencies. It's easier to fit and will provide a snug fit. The other major sound path is through the floor. I've yet to tear down my front cabin area as I've been waiting on the VW electrical plugs which coincidently arrived at 7:30am this morning from the UK The other resonant item is the chassis rail. Give them a rap when you are under the vehicle. They ping like an empty 40 gallon drum I've taken all the factory sound deadening off my engine bay at the moment (in the process of "beefing" this up). I have noticed a significant increase in noise since. I'm investigating where I could fit rubber seals on some of the items (engine cover, bonnet) without interfering with normal air flow out of the engine bay. I picked up the extra front door seals (as listed on a Dutch T5 site) and will fit them hopefully this week if it stops raining. This should help with some noise - if not at least dust The weather in Sydney has been crap lately and I have not had a chance to fit my remaining sound deadening in the cargo area. I purchased a Kenwood reversing camera to replace the crap unit the Alpine fitter installed. I have to rebuild the tailgate handle and make a bracket to build the camera in discretely. I've got my AV switch so I'll be to select between three cameras I'm off to work so no more on the T5 for the next three weeks Edited by MultiplexMan |
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How to upgrade from RCD200
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Must get the jack out tonight and copper grease the wheels if I can get them off.
Shipping to Australia accounts for 50% of the cost but it's still HEAPS cheaper than buying locally...
Though not sure how it compares with the UK Dynamat Extreme price...
) to house both woofers as per a typical Rainbow kick bass installation. The woofers will not being going very low as I have the subwoofer for that. If it doesn't work out I'll just drive one woofer per side...
