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Topic ClosedReminder - Copperslip your hubs!

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Ex-car bloke View Drop Down
Vanorak
Vanorak


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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Reminder - Copperslip your hubs!
    Posted: 02 May 07 at 08:26

I was driving home last night when I heard a noise that I was convinced was the rear wheel bearings collapsing.

Thankfully it turned out to be a rear tyre puncture.  I was on my way to an appointment and my first thought was "I hope the garage coperslipped the hubs like they said they had".  I had asked them to do so when the van was new (a year ago) based on stories from some of the guys on here that told us about alloy wheels getting "welded" to the steel hubs if this wasn't done.

I needn't have worried.  Apart from getting flithy hands (I must remember to put some rubber gloves into the van) it was a non-event.  The wheel studs came off no problem even using the flimsy, short OEM spanner, and the jack, which got a bad press on here recently, seemed to work fine, although on that last note I still plan to get a bottle jack as the standard one is quite weedy.  The wheels came off the hubs like they's been put on yesterday and I could clearly see a load of copper grease had been applied.

So if you have alloys, get the rear faces of your wheels copperslipped.  It really works. 

ECB           2006 SWB 174 window van
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Vanorak
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 07 at 10:22
I never had a problem with the jack either, but I put a "proper" socket, bar and t-handle under the seat as previous experience with undoing wheel nuts that have been put on so tightly they have been friction welded to the hub has had me cursing the gorillas at tyre depots and their nut runners.
1.9 85ps swb 2004 in friesan green.

bring me sunshine.
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Vanorak
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 07 at 23:36
i dont carry anything anymore got vw cover they are going to change the
wheel if i get a puncture in the first year
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 07 at 23:55
Out t4 broke SnapOn tools trying to get a wheel off, that was on steel wheels too.  In the end the AA man ran out of tools that would fit and we had to wait for a local "lorry recovery truck" to bring a big &*!% off rachetting wrench.  That did the trick!
ChrisJ : S. Yorks

96-99:'93 T4 LWB 2.4
01-03:LHD T4 California 2.5TDi 102+>~130
05/07-09/09 : T5 174 'velle Silver
7/10 - 2/14 T5 130 Tip SWB SE Black
2/14 - ? ... To*£@&o Custom 155 Tit Silver
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Yardie
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 07 at 18:52

DO NOT use any lubricant on the studs or hubs. If you find your wheel has become stuck on the hub, loosen the wheel bolts slightly and then drive the vehicle forwards and backwards a couple of feet and it should come off no problem.

If you dont have a torque wrench, make sure you get the wheel studs checked for the correct tightness asap after changing the wheel.

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Vanorak
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 07 at 18:55

Interesting comments after Benfield Newcastle obliged when I asked them to copperslip the hubs.

Back in the day when I was in the motor trade it was common practice. 

Why precisely should one avoid it? 

ECB           2006 SWB 174 window van
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Yardie
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 07 at 19:01

Because the manual says so!

Also it avoids the inconvenience and embarrassment of loosing a wheel.

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Vanorak
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 07 at 00:01
Originally posted by Insider Insider wrote:

Also it avoids the inconvenience and embarrassment of loosing a wheel.

Okay, well, if you put it like that. . .

Your advice is almost always right, so I shall heed it.  I thought you'd moved to pastures new, anyway?

As always, your sage advice is appreciated.

 

ECB           2006 SWB 174 window van
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 07 at 07:18
Originally posted by Insider Insider wrote:

...Also it avoids the inconvenience and embarrassment of loosing a wheel.

 

Interesting. The same VW main dealer that told me there was no difference between the 130 PS and 174 PS drivetrain also told me it was a "good idea" to copperslip the hubs, so it has been done.

They were pretty shambolic though.

North Wind

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Vanorak
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 07 at 07:55

I'm still not convinced that it's the wrong thing to do.  Given that many bolts and parts on a car are lubricated before fixing, none of which somehow work loose as a result, why should greasing your hubs and studs be any different?

In my young days I worked in the motor trade and it was like a little mantra that if you wanted your nuts and bolts to tighten up to torque without damage or wear and to keep a long term full-torque grip, you applied a little grease.  

ECB           2006 SWB 174 window van
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Vanorak
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 07 at 08:25

After my recent trouble;

http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13573& amp;PN=10

I'm sticking () with the copperslip!

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Yardie
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 07 at 19:14
With the wheel bolts in particular, if they are lubricated, firstly it is easier to tighten them leading to potential over torqueing which can damage both stud and wheel. Conversely, if you lube them and under tighten them, they find it much easier to come loose.
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Vanorak
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 07 at 19:28

I know what your saying about the studs Insider, but i had to heat the alloy to get it off. I did try shunting the van back and forth with " my nuts loose " but it didnt work.

Are you at your new post yet, or are you working out your notice ?.

 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 07 at 13:52
Originally posted by Ex-car bloke Ex-car bloke wrote:

I'm still not convinced that it's the wrong thing to do.  Given that many bolts and parts on a car are lubricated before fixing, none of which somehow work loose as a result, why should greasing your hubs and studs be any different?

In my young days I worked in the motor trade and it was like a little mantra that if you wanted your nuts and bolts to tighten up to torque without damage or wear and to keep a long term full-torque grip, you applied a little grease.  

New bolts, especially wheel / suspension bolts are NOT lubricated before fitting.  The only thing applied to them is an anti-corrosive paste to prevent rusting.  It is not a lubricant.  Please take insiders advice and DO NOT lube wheel nut / bolts.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 07 at 15:44
Originally posted by Ex-car bloke Ex-car bloke wrote:


In my young days I worked in the motor trade and it was like a little mantra that if you wanted your nuts and bolts to tighten up to torque without damage or wear and to keep a long term full-torque grip, you applied a little grease.  


I recall from my young days when carrying out repairs to my own vehicles ie head gasket etc there was often reference in the manual to not lubricate threads. I understood lubricating a thread could cause over tightening as there was less resistance for the turning force registered on the torque wrench, but the compression between mating surfaces would be much greater and therefore could be a greater chance of the bolt/stud shearing under the higher tensile load.    


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Vanorak
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 07 at 16:23

Okay guys, I'll take your word for it.  It was along time ago that I got the grease-the-bolts advice and it seems like it's been wrong all these years.  Many thanks for the advice.

Incidentally the wheel studs were not greased on my van, only the faces of the hubs where they mate with the alloy wheels.

ECB           2006 SWB 174 window van
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