Front diff snapped CV joint bolt, flange destroyed |
Post Reply |
Author | |
Adam11
Newbie Joined: 15 May 14 Status: Offline Points: 7 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: 17 May 14 at 16:41 |
Hey guys,
new in the forum here :) My first post is sadly about the current issue with my expedition syncro beast here and hoping someone could point me in the right direction to get this fixed. Basically one of front CV joint bolts loosened and the rest of them got snapped or chewed. This is probably an issue that happens to one out of million syncros but well, here it is and I would need to get that fixed myself in order to get back on the road. As you can see the problem is not only new bolts+washers are needed, but I actually need to replace the flange - screw hole got deformed. I have no idea where to get this part. Looked all over the internet but it seems the flange is not sold separately - maybe someone has a spare one for sale? Also I know I'll need an extractor - are there any other parts that need to be replaced once I get the flange off, like oil sealing or anything else? Thanks ;) |
|
ELVIS
Moderator Group Silence is golden, gaffa tape is silver Joined: 04 Nov 06 Location: Promised Land Status: Offline Points: 9982 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
check with Aiden but it looks like on ETKA it is the same as quite a lot of bay/T3 rear output flanges so good possibility you can get one off a scrap box.
*edit-worng part number, will try and find it!!! not sure if they have a single letter suffix to denote useage/type though. fingers crossed its a simple swap chap. Edited by ELVIS - 17 May 14 at 17:19 |
|
Www.justgiving.com/ELVIS-SUMMERS
|
|
max and caddy
Vanorak Joined: 12 Dec 09 Location: Lancaster..uk Status: Offline Points: 4866 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Your best bet is drop the diff out...doing in situ will be a reet pain in the tezzers. Flange is common to all 091/094 kinda boxes so fairly easy to find but watch for damage on the oil seal face as they leak.
Aidan may have some spares? Where's the expedition vehicle ( as it will now be referred to as) going? By the way...there is a spacer sat in the shit there as well...lever it off and don't lose it. Edited by max and caddy - 17 May 14 at 21:47 |
|
Abyss
Yardie Joined: 20 May 11 Location: Manchester Status: Offline Points: 308 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Same thing happened to me, few posts down...not quite the 1 in a million you thought en ;)
http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/snapped-front-drive-shaft-bolt_topic83624.html |
|
90 VW T3 Syncro Panel Stealth Camper
98 VW T4 Transporter 1200 LWB 2.4TD - Syncro wannabe |
|
syncroandy
Yardie Joined: 18 May 05 Location: North Lancs. UK Status: Offline Points: 630 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
..and make sure all the serrated lock washers and spreader plates are present, and that the bolts are the correct length for the front diff (+2mm over standard), and are torqued correctly.
IME if the above are taken care of the CV joints will stay put. Edited by syncroandy - 26 May 14 at 09:10 |
|
Adam11
Newbie Joined: 15 May 14 Status: Offline Points: 7 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Hey guys,
thanks for all the replies! Finally after 2 days of battling with stuck and rusty bolts I've managed to take out cardan, undo bushes and slide the diff down for easy access. Then usual stuff - flange cup pop out, lock washer out, flange goes out with the puller. Mounted the 'new' flange with a gentle kicks with rubber hammer and applied new cv joint bolts, washers and locks for both sides. Got the new Febi bolts from here, hope they'll resist more then previous ones - http://www.justkampers.com/893-407-237-cv-joint-bolt-vw-beetle-1968-vw-t2-bay-1967-1979-vw-T3-1979-1992.html A few points for anyone else who has to go through this: :) - As much as it seems an easy 2 hours job, allow more time for this especially when your underbody bolts are old and rusty - No need to disconnect anything from the diff, you are no taking it out, just lower it down from the position keeping the back side in the original place (see the photo) - Probably a common sense for most but when you disconnect cv joints from the flange on both sides, wrap them in a plastic bag to avoid dirt getting in the bearing - Make sure you've got two spanners of each size ready (22mm for diff bushes bolts) and usual sizes (13 - 20 for the rest) - 8mm hex tool for cv joint bolts - preferably long and slim for easy access - Trolley jack to handle the diff - No need to lift your van or go to the garage - When doing or undoing CV joint bolts, lift the tyre on your side 1-2cm off the ground so you can turn it around to access all CV joint bolts with an ease - On the finale, fasten cv joint bolts by hand, drive around the block and then jump under the van and doublecheck them And this is my van from outside :) |
|
Adam11
Newbie Joined: 15 May 14 Status: Offline Points: 7 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Forgot to add - THANKS to Aidan for sourcing a used good flange for me!
|
|
Abyss
Yardie Joined: 20 May 11 Location: Manchester Status: Offline Points: 308 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Glad you sorted it, though i didnt need to drop the diff down, i did struggle pulling old one off so maybe it would have helped me, but i used a puller and it came off easy enough. Either way your back on the road, did u use them schnor washers?
Oh Aidan's diversified his business at sourcing good flange then |
|
90 VW T3 Syncro Panel Stealth Camper
98 VW T4 Transporter 1200 LWB 2.4TD - Syncro wannabe |
|
Aidan
Vanorak Joined: 25 Sep 04 Location: Llanfyllin Status: Offline Points: 1081 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I wish |
|
Aidan Talbot, gearboxes for watercooled engines, 4, 5 speed and syncro front and rear rebuilt. 01691 648011, 07817 377938....www.aidantalbot.co.uk
|
|
Post Reply | |
Tweet |
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |