Fridge Problems

Scratch that last post. I've fixed it. After much hunting it was all down to a dry joint on the compressors contacts. Still I've learnt quite a bit about this fridge's electrics so if any one has similar problems, I may be able to help.

Bill.

Hi Duncan,

Haven't managed to get any diagrams\manuals yet. I am sure they are out there, just a question of maybe getting some advice from someone on this forum. There's this one at the following site: http://www.vwbooks.co.uk/catalogue/covers/vwb660.htm

But I am not 100% sure its for covers my 93 European Westfalia california coach that I have. Every where that sells it seems to say its for American models only.

If you don't have the van's manual try this one:

California_coach_instructions.pdf

Its a bit newer than my van, but it all seems to make sense near enough. There's some important stuff in there that had I read it would of saved me a lot of time trying to fix problems that were not really problems :-)

I think mine did the same as yours at some times. It would sometimes fire up and then other times just give a "high pitch whine" and not startup. It wasn't a beep though. They way I fixed mine (and I think I was lucky to be honest) was to clean up the conector plug that goes into the actual compressor. This is the 4 way plug that comes from the plastic box of tricks inside the metal compartment thats sits under the main fridge box. Mine must of had a dry contact or something.

I would set the temperature on the control panel in the cab to be minus 20C so as the fridge should always be on and then go and have a play with this connector block. If the compressor cuts out while your playing with it, this could be the dodgy part of the system thats causing the problem. I would clean the contacts lightly with very fine sandpaper (or meths and a cloth) if you suspect them.

If this doesn't cure the problem, and if its the same Fridge and van as mine, I can always give you voltages\resistance readings at certain points in the loom\connection to see if they match yours and possibly help you diagnose the problem.

By the way, does it all work on the mains at all ?

Let me know if I can help you; I know how frustrating it is.
Cheers
Bill.

Thats made my day! I am glad its fixed.

As for how the batteries and mains operate, it would make sense what you said that its all 12V at the end of the day and the batteries just get topped up from the mains.

You might regret mentioning your knowledge of the heating unit !

Cheers
Bill.

Hi Jossie,

I would eliminate the batteries first if cleaning the terminals didn't work.

Does it work if the batteries have had a good 24 hour charge AND the mains supply is plugged in ? When you charge the batteries, make sure nothing is switched on to give them the best chance of building up a good charge.

Another way to check if its the batteries is to get hold of another that have the capacity to drive the fridge. If yours is the same fridge as mine, then the main engine battery in good condition and fully charged is a good swap to try. If the fridge works on these OK, you know its your leisure batteries or the charging of them which narrows down the problem.
Ta
Bill.

Hi folks,

Have been away a while, so have just caught up on the recent additions to this thread. Having thought that I'd solved my problem  (the old run - beep - reset routine), I've since discovered that the issue still persists. When I cleaned the contacts on both the six way connector outside the fridge, and the three pin connector that connects directly to the compressor, it came back to life for a while. However, I've since discovered that it's actually the disconnection of the power from the fridge that gets it working again - basically, if I disconnect the power for a while (1/2 hour-ish) something seems to reset and the fridge will then work for an hour or so really well, but then it drops back into it's old ways of resetting and not cooling. It seems that I am not the only one with this problem, so I'll just list the things that I've tried so far that have not helped:

Hi,

I've just followed the procedure and found that mine is similar to yours - it starts at 0.1A then rises to 2.4 and then drops down to 0.3 where it settles.

Could it be that there's not enough current reaching the fridge? This seems strange, considering that my batteries are brand new and they deliver enough current to start up the Eberspacher diesel heater, which draws quite a significant current.

I've found this:
http://www.google.fr/url?sa=t&source=web&ct=res&cd=25&url=http%3A%2F%2F217.170.5.50%2F~weetwel%2Ftips_en_trucs%2Fwestfalia_controlepaneel%2FZentralelektronik.pdf&ei=KJ86SpmCLcL6_Abu8tS8Bg&usg=AFQjCNFEFp5ZZJhRD_0xCI_g2inBpNv29Q&sig2=vngypPsrfIK7AdXvF_cHcA

on page 8, there's something about intensity (4.5A) but ... i don't speak german)

Hi All,

My fridge is still working and I will try give you my readings over the weekend. By the way, I think the fridge drawing 4.5A sounds quite reasonable to me as the fridge is rated at 60W and since I=P/V (or amps=power/volts) is 60W/12V which gives you 5A.

Ta,Bill.

I bought a new battery yesterday, charged it all night long and ... nothing ... this fridge seems still dead.
I will try in september to find a specialist and i will tell you if something becomes clear

I've found spanish and  german threads:
http://www.furgovw.org/index.php?topic=26087.0;topicseen
http://www.wohnmobile.net/forum/nachrichten/58332-Re-Danfoss-BD2.htm



the pb seems to be the control unit (102N3017) which could be changed by a E254412 de Frigoboat.
(to be continued)
the german page  seems to try to repair it by changing transistors but i don't speek good german