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Starting issue.

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    Posted: 05 Jun 21 at 14:58
Thanks very much for the replies, they are very helpful.

Its good to know that I've found the glow plug strip fuses. Every reference I've found talks about there being two of them, one for 3 plugs, the other fuse for two plugs. But mine has only got one. Any reason for that, or is it due to the version of LT?

I listened out for the relay and it does indeed 'dunk'after about 10 seconds! SoI'm happy enough with that.

So up to now it looks like: the fuse (singular) is intact; the relay works; and there is fuel getting to the pump. The other option mentioned was a possible pinhole leak in the fuel system, but I wiouldnt know how to go about checking for that and everything seems to point to the glow plugs.

I think I've found a couple of them (thanks to the photo!) - the small rubber right-angled things - but to be honest I think I'll struggle to get at them all and test them. I'm ok with simple-ish jobs, but that looks a bit involved for my abilities.

I'm not entirely sure what my best course of action is from here. The prices I've been quoted by glow plug removal specialsits (for a not-quite guaranteed removal) - £150 per plug removal, plus the cost of the replacement plugs - seems a bit strong to me. Plus they won't drill and tap if something goes wrong. If there is a problem, I'm on my own with it. No place I've spoken to will offer anything other than a 95% likelihood of success. Some places I've contacted won't even attempt it - It seems that the LT is on an 'old-fashioned' mechanical system, whereas more modern vehicles are on a common rail system. I think that means the tools they've got are no use on old vans...

I was considering whether I might be best getting my local garage to have a go at getting them out and if he meets difficulties, opting for a reconditioned cylinder head. The price would be fairly similar to what I'm being quoted for removal. But I'm not sure if thats a wise decision of not. I guess I'd need at least new injectors in addition to glow plugs? Or am I better off just taking my chances with the specialists and hoping they can do the job?

If anyone has got any suggestions or input on a good way forward, or anyone they can recommend, then I'd be very interested to hear it!

Thanks!
Lancashire
LT35 80kw TDi - 2005
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote mojo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jun 21 at 10:05
Yes that is the glow plug strip fuse.
These are the glow plug connectors, the glow plug is under them (see pic). They're a fooker to unplug.
Best thing to do when removing the actual glow plugs is to clean the surrounding area with some compressed air to make sure no debris falls in the cylinder then pre soak with a penetrating fluid for a few days beforehand along with some hot drives, when you do come to remove them get the engine nice and hot. To get at them properly you're best removing the intake manifold.
To test they're getting power you have to remove the connector plug insert one probe from the multimeter into the connector plug and earth the other probe, switch on ignition and you should get battery voltage around 12.5v. The length of time they get the power is dependant on engine temp and you should test each connector plug to be sure they're all getting power. Regarding the relay, if you switch on the ignition and wait around 10 seconds you will hear the relay drop out with a dunk noise. If you do come to change the glow plugs test them all first, you'll need some jump leads to do this and you should time each one them to full glow. To test resistance of the glow plug (when they're installed) you have to remove the connector plug and place one probe on the tip of the plug and earth the other probe on the cylinder head, the resistance of new bosch duraterm plugs is 0.6 ohms.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote BeJay Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jun 21 at 09:26
  Not sure exactly where in the engine bay they're located but these two 80 amp fuses are what you're looking for, and if it's only a hairline fracture in one or both of them then it may be difficult to see with the naked eye rather than being as obvious as the break in the top one in the pic.  

glow plug relay - The Brick-yard
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ADK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jun 21 at 17:14
Thanks for the photo, it was very helpful. I found the pipe - rubbed the grime off and it is clear. It looks like the fuel is in there, it is a sort of pale yellow colour, but its difficult to tell.

The van starts OK at the moment - but I think thats down to the hot weather recently. Based on my understanding, if it was fuel issue then it would still be giving me trouble in hot weather, but as it is, it starts pretty much perfectly at the moment.

------------------

A few weeks ago I took the van to my local garage and he said he 'suspected' it was the glow plugs, based on the way it started, but he didn't actually check them. He attempted to remove them but they were too tight and he didn't want to risk causing any damage which he couldnt resolve (ie drilling and tapping). Which I thought was fair enough. He recommended a few places and I've since searched online.

To cut a very long story short, I'm being quoted some eye-watering amounts by various specialists who will 'probably' be able to get the glow plugs out and replace them. SO with that in mind, I'm aiming to diagnose whether they actually do need to be replaced before I get involved in anything like that.

First problem I've got - finding the glow plugs!


I believe A is one of the injectors, but I'm assuming that B is one of the glow plugs - underneath that cloth sheathing. Can anyone please confirm?!

I've read other posts on this forum talking about checking them with a multimeter for 'continuity' (not sure how to do that either, without seeing them) but my first problem is finding them and getting to them.

I've also read that a common issue is broken fuses in the engine bay. They only place I can find what I think I'm looking for is near the battery. Though I was expecting to see two fuses and i can only see one. Am I in the right area?!



The fuse looks in tact, I tested it with the multimeter set to ohms and it showed resistance, so I think it is fine. But as I say, I was under the impression there would be two. I'm also not sure where the relay is either...

I've got a Pocket Mechanic manual for the van but its not that great and there is only one diagram featuring glowplugs. If anyone could provide a bit of help it would really help me out as i seem to have exhausted my online search.

Thank you!
Lancashire
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Monster LT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Apr 21 at 19:30
Did you resolve this?
I'm suddenly having same issue after many years of starting on the 1st turn. I ruled out most other prossibilities and before getting too stuck into it I found both the strip fuse links in the engine bay were cracked so no power to the glow plugs. Worth a check.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote mojo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb 21 at 22:49
There is a fuel supply line at the back of the diesel pump, it has a clear section where you can see the fuel....if it hasn't drained back!




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ADK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 21 at 14:43
Thanks very much for your help. I now feel reassured that the 3 areas I mentioned are likely to be fine. I'm not sure how I'd about tackling your suggestions, but I'll have a read.

I've made start by parking the van the other way round to how it usually is - with the engine facing uphill rather than downhill. Not sure if that will make any difference to the fuel flow or if its irrelevant, but I'll find out soon enough!

Thanks again, it is appreciated.
Lancashire
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote BeJay Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 21 at 10:18

  It sounds as if the battery starter motor and alternator are all working as they should, if it seems to run ok once you get it fired up then other things I'd check next for a simple fix are 1, is the fuel draining back to the tank when parked up (so it would take an age to drag fuel all the way back up to the pump before it would start) 2, is it dragging air into the fuel system from a pinhole leak anywhere so weakening the fuel/air mixture 3, check if all (or any) of the glow plugs are working ok.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ADK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb 21 at 21:43
Hello,

I'm just hoping for a pointer as to the cause of an issue I'm having with my LT35, please.

Any help or opinion would be gratefully received as I'm not mechanically minded and the van is due for an MOT in a few weeks. I'm concerned it might not even start on the day!

The issue is that it struggles to start. In summary: I've fitted a new battery; the alternator is probably working; the starter motor seems to function.

Here's my workings:

Starter motor: Based on what I've read, I'm guessing the starter motor is fine - when I turn the key, it makes the typical 'coughing' sound, but it either doesn't start or it needs a few goes before it splutters to life. I'll turn the key and let it cough 6/8/10 times before stopping and trying again.

Battery: a brand new Exide 95ah battery was fitted less than 2 years ago. When the problems started before Christmas, I measured the voltage with a multimeter and it was 11.6 or so, but varied. Based on what I read online, my guess is that it was sulphated due to lack of use (furlough) and therefore it needed replacing. However, I charged it indoors, managed to start it just the once but gave up to it and and bought a new one.

I fitted the brand new battery two days ago (95ah Exide) and that didnt cure it, though it has helped. Today it refused to start on the first attempt, but just made it on the second.

Various multimeter readings:
12.48v at fitting
12.75 after a 60 minute drive
12.62 after 6 hours standing.
12.53 after 24 hours standing
13.16 after a 60 minute drive
12.58 after 6 hours standing
12.50 after 24 hours standing
12.64 after an hours drive.

Alternator: My assumption is that the alternator is working because the voltage increases after use.

Another thing to note is when I return from a drive, I turn the engine off then turn the key again and it starts first time. It also did that in the final days of the old battery as well.

So: new battery; alternator probably working; starter motor seems to function.

Have I got something wrong and/or what else might be causing the problem?!

Thank you for any help and sorry for the long post!


Lancashire
LT35 80kw TDi - 2005
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