New Radiator

Hi,
When I drained the coolant didn't get loads of muck out with it, then flushed it through a few times before replacing with the spec'd coolant. The sensors taken out had rusted, bought what I think are the right ones now. I'll try them over Christmas, if they don't fix it, will check the aux pump is working.

They didn't change it, said the belts and water pump look new and that IR thermometer showed everything was running within temp limits, just the guage showing hit, told me to change the sensors. Which I have, twice. First ones I screwed up by ordering drunk, second lot which I think are the right ones, didn't register anything on the gauge.

Hi fellas,

Back again, I still haven't sorted the temp gauge, took the camper in for a water pump change and the garage said it didn't need it. The temp sensors I bought were wrong, I've used 7zap to find the part numbers (https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/lt+lt+4x4/lt/1994-109/9/919-112010/), but it throws up a few options for an ACL engine. My question is does anyone know the part number of the yellow 4 pin temp sensor?
Thanks,

Jamie

As far as I am aware,the core is aluminium and can't be repaired. The cost of re core at last count was more than a new rad from Holland.

When I put a new head on my 2.4TD a few years back, the engine overheated as soon as the LT went back on the road, had obviously been overheating for some time before the new head was fitted - as the old head was badly cracked. Only did about 10 slow miles without the stat to prove there was an issue (new temp sensor fitted during top end rebuild).
I was lucky enough to find a place over Sunbury (West London) that had a rebuilt rad in stock.
As this was 5 years back I doubt they still have them. (and I cannot find them online today)
I still have my old one behind the shed in the garden if you want that for re-coring so you can do a straight swap-out. (If that makes sense)

Yep. Those are coolant temp sensors too.
Search for ETKA and you can find parts lists & diagrams. Very helpful when trying to figure out whats what and get replacement parts.

Thing on top of resevoir is a level sender. Below water pump is temp sensor.
A clogged rad (if that's what is causing this overheating) can be cleared although maybe not fully depending. Backflush with pressure (all hoses off). Soak with degunking chemicals? I'd make sure it is the rad that's the problem though before replacing. Did you check it by hand or with a thermometer? Any tell tale cold spots?

Sure. Just saying for anyone reading in future and may have overheating probs or is getting a new pump, to be aware of the plastic impellor. 
Having said that if this is an ACL engine built in '93 / '94  we're talking about it's not likely to have one with the plastic. It should have the cast metal one. Not saying that these pumps don't fail for other reasons either. Failure of pump can be real subtle, virtually no sign until you fully examine it. Mine had an internal seal displaced and was still going strong except a tiny dropplet appearing at the weep hole, which can be normal when fitting a new pump anyway. Wasn't until I got the cam belt off that I realised how difficult is was to spin the spline compared to a new pump. I spotted the problem on a hunch and had an excuse to do the cam belt.


Edited by Monster LT - 27 Jul 18 at 22:57

robbydoo wrote: Have you tried changing the temp sensor first? it may be worth the investment in that before the hard work of changing the Rad?   Just out of interest have you checked the condition of the water pump, the impellors do fail on them and stop the sufficient flow of coolant....   Rob

Just for the record...
The impellors that do fail are the one made of plastic ( Febi make these  ). If the impellor is a cast metal they are unlikely to be a problem ever.

hi jammy. by saying you turn on the heater and fan on,pretty much answers the question,on doing that you get rid of heat,doing what a radiator should be doing,so if you decide to change the rad,and i think thats the prob,I've changed mine already and i drove the front of the van on ramps,its a bit safer and more solid.It is a bit of a wriggle on you own,but do able,and i'm an old geazer. good luck.