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my T3 reving

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jeanette08 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 08 Apr 18 at 16:39
hi can anyone put any light as to what might be the problem with my T3 watercooled petrol 2.1inj , could it be anything else apart from a air leak any help would be great , i am unable to drive it as it revs like its doing 100 miles a hr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeanette08 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Apr 18 at 16:40
fook orf
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T3 Nev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Apr 18 at 19:56
ISV idle stabilization valve stuck or not working properly. Check wiring connection, give it a good clean or replace.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeanette08 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 18 at 13:33

is this a idle stabilization valve
fook orf
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T3 Nev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 18 at 13:48
Yes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeanette08 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 18 at 13:59
it wont idle at all just reves very high like i have my foot stuck on accelerator pedal is a more accurate description
fook orf
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T3 Nev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 18 at 14:00
Its relocated on top of the engine towards the back. One of the hoses goes to the air inlet at the air filter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeanette08 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 18 at 14:00
whats the best way to clean it ? please
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T3 Nev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 18 at 14:02
Are you sure the accelerator cable is not stuck?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeanette08 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 18 at 14:05
no its def not stuck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote booted Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 18 at 15:32
the accelerator cables wear and stick in the middle best way to check is to disconnect it at the engine end. just to rule it out
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Plattypuss Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 18 at 09:34
I am also having this exact same problem with my 1991 2.1i Digifant. I haven't solved it yet, but I'll be sure to let you know when I have the answer.
It's definitely to do with the Digifant system. When cold, it's starts first go and revs as if someone is standing on the accelerator peddle. At this point I unclip the plug going into the ISV (Idle stabiliser valve) and the revs return to normal. Then you can reclip the the ISV and it still runs normal with a nice tick-over speed. However, after  about 5 minutes the engine gets warm and cuts out. It then will not start until it's cooled down. It could be the idle switch needs adjusting. Sometimes, these slip and need resetting. Mine wasn't working, so I reset it, but this didn't solve the problem, but it might solve yours. Here is a link to very easy to follow idle switch adjustments. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTphzNgG5ns.

I've checked my valve and it is opening manually, but I need to check the wiring next.

Anybody out there with the definitive answer?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Merlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Apr 18 at 21:12
A few years back a friend of mine had a Syncro 2.1, on different occasions it start idling high and cut-out when hot.
The first time the micro-switch under the throttle body was broken, you can hear it click as it switch on and off, it switch the idle circuit on or off. 
The second time there was a loose earth connection on the engine, under the air-con pump, it earths the ECU, problem start after they replace the air-con pump, as the connection fails the engine start over-fueling - there was little black smoke, idling high when cold and cut when warm / hot.
Third time the coolant sensor was intermediate, giving the wrong reading (hot coolant show it is cold) also slight to heavy over-fueling. Tested the sensor about three or four times, but it always tested correct, one night it start cutting we test the coolant temperature on the steel pipe at the back of the engine and the voltage from the sensor and there it shows the problem. Replace it, fixes also some other problems he had, like sometimes hard starting. 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Plattypuss Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Apr 18 at 09:09
Cheers for sharing. I think I may have a similar problem to the one you suggested.
On the plus side, I fitted a new (after market) ISV (Idle stabiliser valve) last night and this cured the high revving tick-over problem. It ran for 20 minutes happily adjusting the tick-over rate accordingly.
However, when I switched off and checked the connections. It then then would not restart. I believe this is because of the temperature.
I have a new Temp2 sender to install tomorrow and I'll keep this post updated on the outcome.
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Plattypuss Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Apr 18 at 11:50
Put in a new Temp2 sender managing to wash my face and clothes in coolant at the same time.
Once again it started from cold and I added back the lost coolant. It ticked over lovely, but alas, would not start again when hot.
Now I need to check that air isn't creeping in from some unknown hole. So close and yet so far away.
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