Pierburg 2e3 Carburetor refurb

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   Hi, I have removed and cleaned the carb and have checked everything clear. Before I put it back together, I need to find out if the return to tank petrol pipe should blow clear. If you blow or suck on it it’s completely blocked. Is this normal? If not, how can I clear please?
Any other tip before it gets reassembled would be appreciated.

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John36riv Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 06 Apr 18 Location: St Helens Status: Offline Points: 4	Post Options Post Reply Quote John36riv Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Pierburg 2e3 Carburetor refurb Posted: 06 Apr 18 at 22:17
	Hi, I have removed and cleaned the carb and have checked everything clear. Before I put it back together, I need to find out if the return to tank petrol pipe should blow clear. If you blow or suck on it it’s completely blocked. Is this normal? If not, how can I clear please? Any other tip before it gets reassembled would be appreciated.

msabbasi Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Not Quite Newbie Joined: 28 Jan 18 Location: Islamabad Status: Offline Points: 21	Post Options Post Reply Quote msabbasi Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 07 Apr 18 at 02:54
	There a couple of very informative videos on u-tube about strip down and rebuild. You may or may not have seen them. Anyhow the link is placed here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VKD6ci8o06w and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=amnqCUSTnUw With regards to the return line, there is a no-return valve in the line, so sucking on the will not bear any results and blowing into it will require enough pressure to overcome the spring resistance within the valve. A picture of the setup is attached for reference. Please note that this applies to DF, DG or EY engine codes Due to the poor resolution of the picture, I am posting the link to the web page: http://www.realoem.me/Volkswagen/USA/VA/1984/4/R/2/201/32020#20 Edited by msabbasi - 07 Apr 18 at 02:57

John36riv Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 06 Apr 18 Location: St Helens Status: Offline Points: 4	Post Options Post Reply Quote John36riv Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 07 Apr 18 at 09:49
	Yes, I have seen the youtube videos and they are really good but they dont refer to the cleaning and operation of some parts. Thanks very mich for the feedback on the fuel return as this puts my mind at rest that everything is in order. I will be using the videos for reassembly so thanks for a brilliant post.

John36riv Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 06 Apr 18 Location: St Helens Status: Offline Points: 4	Post Options Post Reply Quote John36riv Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Apr 18 at 21:56
	The carb is all back together with all the new bits and adjusted perfectly. The car still won’t start or even seems close to starting. The spark plugs are sparking and the carb is supplying fuel. Why won’t the engine fire....? The engine has been rebuilt and hasn’t run since then. Compression test has been run and all cylinders good. New sparks, leads, rotor arm and dizzy cap. Any tips before I get the T3 into a garage would be really appreciated.

AndyT Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Moderator Group Joined: 16 May 08 Location: Ammanford Status: Offline Points: 2274	Post Options Post Reply Quote AndyT Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Apr 18 at 22:24
	The engine re-build would have been useful information. Go back to basics, check the engine timing, plug lead order, and rotor arm in place. Don't scoff it has been done. If you have a spark and fuel at the same time, something should happen, backfire, pop through the carb etc.
	LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

msabbasi Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Not Quite Newbie Joined: 28 Jan 18 Location: Islamabad Status: Offline Points: 21	Post Options Post Reply Quote msabbasi Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 09 Apr 18 at 01:27
	I would agree with @AndyT. I own a 1.9 waterboxer with DG engine so my experience is limited to that engine and the following as also applicable to the same. You may have already done the obvious, but no harm in going over it again. Turn the engine over to where the notch in the pulley lines up with two halves of the engine (halves visible just to the right of the distributor). This is the TDC for piston number one. At this position the rotor should point towards the pulley (to the notch) and also to the position one wire in the dist cap. Firing order is 1-4-3-2. cylinder numbering is: no. 1- right side front, no.2 - right side rear, no.3 - left side front and no. 4 - left side rear. Static timing is 5 deg BTDC. Engine should fire up. If not then there may be something amiss in the carb. Edited by msabbasi - 09 Apr 18 at 01:27