Yet another JX to AAZ swap log |
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mastakilla
Groupie Joined: 15 Jul 16 Location: Italy Status: Offline Points: 42 |
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Posted: 08 Dec 16 at 13:48 |
Hello, I have bought a '88 multivan with a blown JX, runs well but coolant is full of oil, still not sure if it's only the head gasket or if the head is cracked...anyway, I've done the sensible thing and bought a 1.9 TD: the seller states that it comes from a GTD Golf, but looking at it, it seems that the pump is the flat top "eco" one.
Someone can confirm? If so, which are my options to give it a bit more poke, I have the old jx pump which seems OK, which is better? My plans are to strip it down to the bare block, fit new rings and bore it if needed, rebuild it with new everything and fit it to the existing 5speed box. My mod list - fit a new crank pulley with new bolt, if I find the crank nose ruined I might fit a retainer pin - use the clutched alternator pulley - oil rad - slight pump mods if allowed Edited by mastakilla - 14 Mar 17 at 11:37 |
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ob1
Yardie FOUND IT, IT WAS HIDING! Joined: 11 May 08 Status: Offline Points: 732 |
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''Tis an AAZ. Slightly rubbisher later pump but it'll go ok.
Don't use the JX pump or injectors just look and fit an earlier pump with a decent boost pin and good to go. If it's a known good engine I'd personally just slam it in. There are pretty indistructable with regular oil changes so long as they don't get too hot. Crank bolt pulley is a must. Change every cam belt swap as well. Use the JX v belt set up for less strain on the system or as you're saying use a clutched pulley. |
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mastakilla
Groupie Joined: 15 Jul 16 Location: Italy Status: Offline Points: 42 |
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Thanks ob1 for the info! I'll start looking for a pump then, from a quick skim thru the classifieds they seem to go for as much as I paid for the engine, but I'll keep looking.
The fact is that I know nothing about this engine, it's being delivered to me on a transpallet, removed from a van of which I know absolutely nothing, so I thought of giving it a proper refresh for peace of mind essentially
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ob1
Yardie FOUND IT, IT WAS HIDING! Joined: 11 May 08 Status: Offline Points: 732 |
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It'll be ok with that pump. Just a bit flat.
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oxford_rebel
Groupie Joined: 24 Sep 07 Location: Banbury Status: Offline Points: 173 |
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I had that pump on mine and it was ok, better than the previous JX. It died and I fitted a later LDA pump a year ago, that was much better, then a Brickwerks boost pin and it went really well, even my usual (experienced with AAZ T3) mechanic said it was the best AAZ he's driven. It's now got a cracked block so an AGG is going in and my pump (and nearly new injectors) will be for sale shortly.
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mastakilla
Groupie Joined: 15 Jul 16 Location: Italy Status: Offline Points: 42 |
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Hi! If the cracked block is not a consequence of the pump, let me know when you have it for sale :)
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mastakilla
Groupie Joined: 15 Jul 16 Location: Italy Status: Offline Points: 42 |
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Hello again, I'm finally installing the engine, and while preparing it some issues/choices to make popped out
- the engine came with some badly modified support arms, to make space for the exhaust manifold and turbo, so since the old JX manifold/turbo seem to be in good shape, we are thinking of mounting them in place of the AAZ stuff, this would allow us to use the original untouched support arms. Is it a good idea or should we go with the original AAZ parts? - as much as i'd like to source a proper LDA pump, they are all expensive and at this point I just want it on the road, I'd leave its eco pump but if there's something to be gained from the JX pump, I may use it... old question I know, but still - we found this "piece" to be a little worn, but I can't find a replacement...it sits below the alternator, and has a shaft in it that rotates in a bushing (which is the worn part). What's that and where do I find service parts? Thanks guys |
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ob1
Yardie FOUND IT, IT WAS HIDING! Joined: 11 May 08 Status: Offline Points: 732 |
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Use the Jz manifold and turbo. You need to adapt the oil lines a little. Or buy new ones from brickwerks.
Use the AAZ pump and injectors. It'll be fine - or I've got a decent know good AAZ pump sitting here? |
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mastakilla
Groupie Joined: 15 Jul 16 Location: Italy Status: Offline Points: 42 |
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Just spent an awful lot of money for bits and bobs..in the end went all out and even splashed for a full silicone pipes kit.
The only parts that I haven't been able to source online are bushings 028903313 grommets 028903310 both related to what I later discovered is the serpentine tensioner assembly pictured above. Will have to scour the junkyards to find a good casting as mine is worn in the alloy. What now concerns me is the fact that there's some leakage around the crankshaft seal, I'll fit new seals of course but I hope it's not a symptom of the dreaded AAZ self destruction...couldn't check the crank pulley as the engine is separated from the gearbox and the mechanic told me that he needs it attached not to lose the phase. Fingers crossed... |
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mastakilla
Groupie Joined: 15 Jul 16 Location: Italy Status: Offline Points: 42 |
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Engine is almost ready, waiting for the alt. bracket to come from somewhere so we can close it and put it back in the van.
One curious thing is this: I bought the extended oil return line from brickwerks, thinking that it would've been needed to fit the JX K14 turbo to the AAZ block, but in the end we reused the old one as it fits perfectly, while the extended one is too long and can't even befitted properly without doing ugly bends. Are we missing something obvious here?
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mastakilla
Groupie Joined: 15 Jul 16 Location: Italy Status: Offline Points: 42 |
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Hi, engine is in, almost done connecting all the bits, at least it seems to run fine.
There are now some small minor issues, maybe you can shed some light on them (if anyone is reading) - I've used the JX manifold and turbo, but the turbo sits a bit higher than in the JX. as a result, the JX downpipe now sits a bit higher too, and does not line up well with the exhaust back box. I don't see this problem mentioned much elsewhere, how do people solve this? I can modify the downpipe with a flex section, buy the spacer from brickwerks or just force it in place - The AAZ alternator seems a bit worn, so has to be rebuilt. I've realized that maybe by using the AAZ alt the original revcounter may read higher. What's best to fix it? Is there some pot in the cluster? I may use an Arduino to build the correct signal out of the AAZ output, but I'd avoid it if possible Thanks!
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ob1
Yardie FOUND IT, IT WAS HIDING! Joined: 11 May 08 Status: Offline Points: 732 |
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I recently used the brick-yard spacer which worked very well. Although I've found you can usually bodge it all in to place with a drill and enthusiasm.
Did work better with the spacer plate though! Not sure about the alternator. |
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mastakilla
Groupie Joined: 15 Jul 16 Location: Italy Status: Offline Points: 42 |
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I've sourced a 120A alternator from a TDI, which comes fitted with the clutched pulley, I have modified it soldering a wire on the back to get the W output and drive the tacho.
Now I have a couple of issues - The engine seems to sit a bit too close to the rear of the van, in particular the crank pulley is very (like 2 mm at best) close to the exhaust box. I've checked the mounts and everything, there doesn't seem to be any obvious way to move it a bit forward. Is it normal? - I've fitted the brickwerks throttle arm lever, which is cool. In doing so, I have lost the original position of the small screw on which it screws on: I have refitted it so that at rest the screw sits at its "closed" position, but I don't know if it's the correct way of setting it. Is there a guide somewhere? Also, the throttle cable is too short and can't reach the lever, I had to extend 2 cm it with a bodge, surely that must be wrong. |
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mrhutch
Moderator Group the ginger princess Joined: 21 Aug 07 Location: Herefordshire Status: Offline Points: 5147 |
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what gearbox code have you got?
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T3 1981 Westy Vanagon - thinks lubricant is a fuel
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ob1
Yardie FOUND IT, IT WAS HIDING! Joined: 11 May 08 Status: Offline Points: 732 |
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Mine was the same as this. Cable to short with brick-yard throttle lever as well.
I bodged it with a bit of flat steel. |
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mastakilla
Groupie Joined: 15 Jul 16 Location: Italy Status: Offline Points: 42 |
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@mrhutch not sure about the code, can't check it now but it's a 5 speed unit. It's the one that was originally attached to the JX
@ob1 ok so that's normal, don't like it that much tbh, I also had to enlarge the hole with a file or the screw wouldn't fit. I'm thinking of using a stiff spring instead of a piece of steel to connect the lever to the cable. In my mind it would work kinda like the original double spring mechanism, reducing cable stretch.
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mastakilla
Groupie Joined: 15 Jul 16 Location: Italy Status: Offline Points: 42 |
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Well the bus is kind of finished, but I'm concerned about the health of the engine: these are the issues I'v found so far
- new crank sprocket, nose was in fine condition, new harmonic balancer and still the sucker wobbles...it's not very pronounced, but it's there. What could that be? shot crank maybe? - oil comes out of the turbo, and leaks in the exhaust. This was the K14 that came with the engine, I still have the one that was on the JX, and will maybe try to swap it. Other than that, it runs fine, but these issues bug me, maybe it would be wise to source another AAZ and rebuild it as new, while running this one while it lasts...
Edited by mastakilla - 11 Nov 17 at 17:48 |
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mastakilla
Groupie Joined: 15 Jul 16 Location: Italy Status: Offline Points: 42 |
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Answering to myself here, but anyway
I've removed and disassembled the turbo, nothing obviously wrong with it, but there was quite a bit of oil on both sides (hot and cold), the exhaust intake was dry so it's definitely oil coming out from the seals. I've ordered a rebuild kit with new seals and will put it back together as soon as it arrives, if that doesn't fix the issue it must be a drainage problem, but let's see how it pans out. Meanwhile, I couldn't help myself and bought another AAZ (this time with the proper pump): the idea is to have the bus running for a while with the current ECO engine (hoping that it lasts at least a year or so), while rebuilding the other engine "as new", or "better than new" (TDI crankshaft, ARP everything) I'll likely fit an oil cooler and a charge cooler as well, once the thing runs properly without spitting oil. |
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mastakilla
Groupie Joined: 15 Jul 16 Location: Italy Status: Offline Points: 42 |
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I've rebuilt and refitted the turbo: it didn't explode, and I couldn't see any oil coming out of the cool side, so I assume it's fixed now. We'll see how it behaves on the road (if and when I'll get to that point).
Since The van interior is all out, I have decided to tackle all the little jobs I wanted to do before reassembling it. Namely - Electric power steering: I have bought an ebay kit which states I'll have to cut and weld stuff to fit it. Nice! - oil cooler - central locking - ICE - power windows - aux battery
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mastakilla
Groupie Joined: 15 Jul 16 Location: Italy Status: Offline Points: 42 |
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Well, I didn't open the engine betting on it being good enough to last the summer before swapping in the other AAZ that I have bought (which came with the proper pump). Turns out I was wrong.
This engine has a lot of blowby, and started pressurizing the coolant (stream of bubbles in the header tank, systems keeps pressure when cooling), I think the hg failed. Also, I kept getting oil pressure warnings so maybe the oil pump is worn as well, and/or there are issues with the bottom bearings..probably it was on its last leg and it's now wise to scrap it keeping all the new stuff I bolted on it. I've also noticed oil in the compressor outlet, but I've just changed the turbo bearings so it's either the crank pressure pushing it out or the blowby mist collecting there, anyway now it sits there doing nothing until I fix it after the summer, it was good while it lasted though, decent power and fuel consumption...bummer
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