1984 1.9DG to AGG Conversion

Should have said, the factory immobiliser lets the engine fire up 'fully' (i.e. with spark etc) for a few seconds before it cuts it off.  This is to help you differentiate between immobiliser issues and general running issues.

Before you go any further, do you have a wiring diagram of where the impobiliser goes ( I understand the arieal is clipped around the Ignition Switch), where it plugs into the original T3 System and where it ends up?. I am still not clear 'what' the imobiliser, imobolises?..... I think this system I am trying to sort has taken a nasty high current shock, but no one actually has a wiring diagram of the T3 original wiring to the Golf GTi set up. Mabye you have one?, would be very very helpful to know. My computer is a Digifant 11, 037 9906 022 N. Any electrical information would be a great help!. 

That is great thank you, I will have a little look about and check it's not the timing on my older Gti engine and then check regulator.

Hi, I am currently running an AGG in a Gipsy and an ABF in a Doka, both using the JX dipstick as it’s a lot more convenient to keep an eye on things through the flap rather than lift the engine hatch, especially with the paranoia that comes with a new conversion!
You could as you say extend the AGG dipstick and mark your new level on it no problem tho.
Where abouts in the country are you?
By your name I wondered if you were Bournemouth as I’m in Weymouth?
Cheers, Bert.

Edited by Forden341 - 05 Jul 18 at 09:56

Hi there,

A bit of an update on this, and a bit of head scratching.

Firstly, after few days I had my first problem when the van wouldn’t restart.  Battery was flat.  As there was no alternator warning light, I put this down to a dead battery due to the van standing for so long.  Put another battery in and all was well for another couple of days and the same thing happened.

Started to have a think about the alternator (still no warning light though) and stuck a multimeter across it to find that I was only getting just over 12V, so not charging properly.  The AGG engine came with a 70A Valeo alternator. 

Had a read up online and found this useful video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f56-26I6idc and thought that I would have a go refurbishing it.  Bought a new regulator, flip rings and bearing from here, came to about £15 http://www.saverepair.com/search?controller=search&orderby=position&orderway=desc&search_query=A11VI66+&submit_search=%EE%98%A5

Also an excuse to buy another soldering iron (you need quite a big one for this). Got this one http://cpc.farnell.com/antex/sr8w270/soldering-iron-100w/dp/SD00837?CMP=TREML007-005 £14.

A bit fiddly, but certainly doable.  The bushes and slip rings were definitely knackered, so I was happy that I had found the problem. 

20170425_212326 by ClubJoker84, on Flickr

Knackered bushes.

20170425_212313 by ClubJoker84, on Flickr

Knackered slip rings.

It was whilst reassembling it all that I suddenly twigged that I had been a dopey twat.  Alternators earth through their mounting bolts and body to the engine, and I had carefully painted over all of this in an effort to make it look nice!  Doh!

Anyway, duly reassembled and paint removed around mounts, put it back on van and added an earth strap for good measure.  Tested continuity between alternator body and van body and had almost no resistance, so all good.  Started van up (freshly charged battery), and found that my alternator warning light was now working (yes!) but that the alternator was not (noooo!). 

A bit more reading up on alternators, and found that they need to be ‘excited’ to start charging.  The smaller terminal on the alternator needs some voltage sent to it to start things off.  This comes via the warning light circuit on the dash.  When you turn the ignition on, voltage is sent from the dash to the alternator, triggering the alternator.   Once the alternator is working, the voltage 'out' of the alternator is greater than than the voltage in, reversing the current flow and turning off the warning led.

I tested this voltage and found I was only getting about 9v, so started to think this might not be enough.  As a quick check, I very briefly ran a jumper wire from the large D+ terminal on the alternator to the exciter terminal, and the engine note instantly changed as the alternator kicked in.  Now getting a full 14.5v from the alternator.  Following this initial 'excitement' at a full 12v, the 9v exciter seems to be enough to start it all off.  Maybe something to try if anyone else rebuilds there alternator and has trouble?  Seems to need a bit more 'kick' first time around.  Anyway, problem solved!  The moral is don't paint over vital earthing points!

 All good so far.  BUT….

Head gasket thing was still nagging at me, so bought one of the head gasket chemical tester from ebay and found that I did actually have a leak.  Bugger. 

Undid exhaust, drained fluids, etc. and took the head off.  Good news is that there is room to do this with the engine still in the van.  This is a westie, so the cupboard slightly overhangs, but it is still doable.  No obvious signs of any leaks, but gave it a really thorough clean up (head and block).  New gasket set and head bolts (decent quality) were less than £60, so not too drastic. That is for a full gasket and seal set, so pretty good value.  Seeing as the head was now off, I thought that I might as well replace the stem seals and clean up the valves.

The more agriculturally minded of you will appreciate my ‘ghetto’ valve spring compressor…

20170511_232755 by ClubJoker84, on Flickr

It’s a cider press that I made last year out of a fencepost to deal with some excess apples.  A combination of fence post frame, car jack and a bit of tube.  I just put a few shims under the each valve (i.e. at the bottom of the valves – the cylinder end) and could then compress the springs and lift out the collets.  Bloody fiddly!  More cleaning (dunked the block in some hot water with Swarfega degreaser and left it an hour or so – came out sparkling!). 

Cleaned up the valves (which weren’t too bad) using emery paper and a drill.  20170507_154906 by ClubJoker84, on Flickr

Tried more gentle approaches, but this one seems to be the way forward.  Stayed well away from the sealing faces. Was also very careful to keep everything in the same order!

20170511_233709 by ClubJoker84, on Flickr

Also lapped the valves seeing as it was all apart.  Replaced the stem seals.

Followed this guy’s videos to put it all back together https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILngxEMRw2g&t=4s. 

Getting the head back on was a bit of twat to be honest.  It is bloody heavy and difficult to hold over the engine bay.  Best done with a mate I would say.  All torqued up to spec and rest of engine put back together.  Oil and coolant back in (only water so far just in case).  Was all super clean, flat faces etc. (measured with a straight edge) so 95% confident the gasket replacement went ok.

A lot less bubbling in the coolant tank now, just water being moved by the pump.  Took it for a spin and the temperature crept up to the top of the temperature gauge after about 4 miles.  Heaters full on (plenty of hot air coming out) and temperature hardly moved down at all.  No flashing light, but I was babying it!

I noticed that there was a broken fuse to the radiator fan, replaced that and jumped radiator fan switch to turn it permanently on for drive home (was definitely on!).  Strange thing was that this made no difference to temp reading, which climbed straight back up.  Made it home and had a poke around at the engine.  Bottom hose to water pump was staying cool, so I thought thermostat had died.  Took it out to see if it made any difference.  Pipe now gets warm, but temperature climbed and again, jumping the fan made no real difference.  Definitely did not have to put in the full 16lt of coolant, more like 8lt?  But it really didn’t seem to be able to take any more, despite doing all the revving it etc. as recommended by Baxter.  Rad is bled and hot right to top.  

Measured blocks using Vagcom whilst it was running and it says that the coolant temperature gets up to about 90degrees when the gauge is up at the top.  Jumping the fan brings it down on vagcom pretty quick.  Putting on the heater also brings it down.

Tested the thermostat that I took out on the stove and it opened up fine!

So, any ideas???? Is this just a temperature gauge malfunction??  Was ok before all the d1cking about, but things have been plugged and unplugged a few times since! Or is it something more serious??

 

Hi there,

Thanks for asking.  I have hit a bit of a hold up!  Giving the van a pre MOT go over and wash, when I noticed the dreaded behind-the-dildo panel was quite a lot worse than when I last looked.  It's been on the 'to do' list since I got the van about 9 years ago, but it has just leapt to No. 1 by rusting right through 

How's things going? Running well? Exhaust noise ok? Impressed???