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Water Pump Leak? Cam belts n all...???

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AndyT View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jul 16 at 22:30
Not sure what you mean, Both Power Steering Pump & Altenator adjusted to the point that they cannot move any more and still the belts won't move... Why heat?

Also new manuals uploaded today, might cast some light on the problem.
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Monster LT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jul 16 at 11:22
Found the tip for the damper flange from Hugo151 on Madras post:
the front plate of the damper pulley can easily be forced off by screwing a long m10 bolt through till it hits the head of the "BIG ONE ", just keep turning till it pops off. i wouldn't worry about the BIG ONE being that tight, mine wasn't, & like someone else said , just do it up as tight as you can if your torque wrench doesn't  go that high.

http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/cambelt-info_topic76225_page1.html?KW=cam+belt+info

and it's off...

 

The inner hex bolts underneath weren't as easy though.

So I sacrificed another allen key (6mm) to fit in socket and get 'em out but the alen key ended up rounded off and tortioned 45 degrees... 


Luckily I remember I had a 6mm hex in a driver bit set. That did the trick and with a snap of thread lock breaking they were off...


Now to simply loosen the PAS & Altenator belts and slip 'em off. Easy right? No such luck....
Both Power Steering Pump & Alternator adjusted to the point that they cannot move any more and still the belts won't move....




Scratching my head again for a solution. Thinking to just work around them while I take off the vibration damper or get the heatgun out and warm'em up a bit but I'm a bit cautious as that may weaken them. We replaced 'em only 10mnths ago at the truckers place and I don't remember them being so f'in tight going on.Angry
Any tips at this point are very welcome.


Edited by Monster LT - 06 Jul 16 at 00:15
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Monster LT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jul 16 at 10:49
Yep, a tiny leak can lead to whole lotta damage.
Spent most of yesterday tearing down that front end after having finally figured setting TDC

then wrestling the hoses on the expansion tank and the fan cowling cover,




destroying my favourite 8mm allen key to make a socket for the inner hex bolt on the fan



I finally got to the flange on the damper.



Now I'm scratching my head trying to figure how to get that flange off so back to Madra's post think...

Still gotta make the crank locking tool but judging how heavy it was when attempting to set TDC (nothing budged) it's probably unneccessary.

Incindentally the fan which is on my diesel ACL engine is marked yellow coded for the petrol DL engine!
Odd...

I'll need tips on removing this Cam Sprocket so I can get the backing plate off:


Do I remove it with the crank locked? What if it moves? Do I need to lock the fuel pump?

Here's the replacement tension roller:



and here's the replacement relay roller:



and the water pump:




Edited by Monster LT - 05 Jul 16 at 10:52
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote robbydoo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jul 16 at 09:05
Yes if water is coming from the drain hole it means either the inner seal is failing or the bearings are failing and causing the main shaft to pull to the side away from the seal, either way do not drive your van and change as a matter of urgency.
 
It would make sense to exchange the timing belt and tensioner also and for the money involved I would also change the other belts in that area as you will need to take them off anyway.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LTCamper89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 16 at 17:29
It seems you are having a great weekend, just sorry I cannot help out. 
1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

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....at least the roof is not rusting away....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Monster LT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 16 at 20:27
So after some more reading it's apparent this water pump will need replacing and the leak must be a sign of inner seal failure leading eventually to bearing failure and all our nightmares of engine failure consequences.
Here's a good read for anyone interested in VW water pump failures.
http://www.blauparts.com/vw_water_pump_replacement/bad_vw_water_pump_leak_noise.html

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Monster LT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 16 at 16:20
Managed to take a closer look at the water pump by simply unclipping & removing the top part of the toothed belt guard and using a vanity mirror I spotted the point of this terrible little leak:



There's a little drain hole next to the toothed sprocket of the pump and it's dripping away from there.
Can anyone shed some light on why it's leaking from the drain hole and does it mean I'll need to replace the pump?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Monster LT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 16 at 00:55
 Hi Folks!
Tracing a coolant leak - appears to be from the water pump. Can't be sure yet as it's behind the covers.
10mnths ago stripped nearly all off to check belts & pump with a truck mechanic. All looked good so didn't go all the way to replacing belt and pump. Took the best part of a day.
Is there an easier way to get to check the pump?
I don't have the special tools either. (crank locking tool, tensioner puller)
I read someone got the cam belt tensioner/idler off with a screwdriver? Do-able or is that a clear botch job?
I also read that you don't need the locking tool if you use an impact wrench with enough torque. Is that so or will things move as I'd assume?
I'd need to remove everything from the front just to get to the pump behind the backing plate including header tank, fan/cowling/ducts, alt belt, PAS belt, vibration damper, cam belt, tensioner/idler, both cam & crank pulleys/sprockets. Right so far? I don't want to just bend the backing plate out the way (sorry Madra).
Will I need to re-time the fuel pump aswell or will locking the front crank be enough?
So anyone with experience of doing all this with the ACL please help!
Got mi knickers in a twist just thinking about it....

 
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