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How to: 2.5 BPC turbo removal

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CMP260 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 14 Nov 14 at 12:58
**THIS IS FOR 2.5 BPC MOTOR WITH WATER COOLED EGR AND CAST MANIFOLD**

This procedure was on a late 2006 multivan

-pictures to follow-


you will need a long 10mm spline drive and a very long extension for your socket set

This was done on my back under jack-stands -if you have a lift -lucky you!

  1. It makes the job a lot more pleasant if you use a very bright lamp that you can just sit on the floor- far easier than trying to use an underpowered hand lamp to see some of this crap. I use a 10w Screwfix rechargeable LED site light. (XQ Lite FL1188)
  2. under bonnet: remove airbox and turbo intake pipes and plug up with some clean rags or plastic bags. unclip all wires and tubing to DPF at bulkhead.
  3. Jack up front of van and put 3 ton stands under each side of frame unless you want van on your head. I bent my 2 ton ramps on it. This aint a car, its a fekin heavy beast and front weight biased -thats why your front tyres wear out so quick!
  4. Under van: remove the circular clamp at rear of DPC.
  5. remove circular clamp at front of dpc
  6. stick screwdriver under clamps and pry loose and remove
  7. unbolt 2 bolts under DPC to sub-frame
  8. under bonnet: remove 3 wire connectors to DPC at bulkhead.
  9. remove two DPC vacumm hoses at bulkhead
  10. Under van: pry loose dpc and move it to the left side
  11. Don't even try to unscrew  the rusty exhaust pipe join under the middle of the van; its a bitch and you will fail. And don't cut it off either: remove the 2 bolts holding each rubber exhaust hanger both in front of, and behind, the silencer.Lamp
  12. then rotate exhaust to left - now you can use the flexi down pipe as a nice headrest for the hours you will be working underneath, trying to  get at crap that cant be got at 
  13. Now remove rear engine mount: (lots of hidden bolts): vertical engine mount to subframe bolt,  large left and right bolts at engine, double ended 17mm bolt at engine, bolt connecting that bar  on the side of the mount, two bolts holding Drive shaft and another nut and another bolt at the top of the mount under turbo. I found these using my fingers to feel around; it worked better than the mirror I wasted hours with. I put a jack under the engine just in case- but you probably dont need it.Ermm
  14. now slide out the DPC. It must come out - the turbo won't fit past it.
  15. under bonnet: remove 3 vertical, 10mm, spline head bolts -turbo to manifold
  16. under van: remove bolt holding turbo on right side to engine block (under turbo intake pipe thats bolted to turbo) also bolt on left side.
  17. Under bonnet: use a mirror and fingers to feel right between the middle of the turbo (on top of it) -there is a 10mm spline head bolt holding it to the block and it is a bitch to remove.
  18. you need a 10mm spline bit (about 10cm long), the type that fits into a 10mm socket. A shorter bit wont work. There is not enough room to actually use the socket with my spline bit due to the manifold being in the way and no space. If you have a spline bit that is longer than 10cm then you could probably fit a socket on it right away. The way I finally managed to get it off was by using a 10mm box spanner with breaker bar on the spline bit to break it loose, then slowly backing it out until there was enough space to use my 1/4" ratchet with 10mm long-socket over the end of the spline bit and remove the rest of the way.
  19. under van: wiggle out the turbo -catch all the gaskets that fall out too.

Its hard to believe that this paragraph took me 15 minutes to write but about 30 hours to do the work. It must be said, trying to find hidden bolts and work out how to remove them after I found them, took most of the time so hopefully this will help others who haven't done it before.


Next, putting it back together:

I bought a 140mm long, 10mm spline on ebay.de -it made life a lot easier putting it back together. "M10 x L-140mm Vielzahn 12-Kant Stecknuss /Spline Steckschlüssel"

Important: the turbo to manifold flange is not symmetrical, the flat tab on the gasket goes closest to the engine block. 2 sides of the flange are the same length, the 3rd side is shorter meaning the holes only match one way.

  1. loosen the fat seal ring around the turbo to manifold connector on manifold (this is bascically a straight pipe stub -the jamming ring locks it all in place when its tightened.
  2. push it, the thin top triangular plate and the thick triangular plate underneath, all the way to the top on the pipe stub
  3. push baling wires through the 3 holes from above. bend L shapes in the ends to hold it all in place. Then go up top and tie it off somewhere so its held all the way up on the stub. Its actually easier not to add the gasket at this stage Thumbs Up.
  4. put turbo to block gasket on block. push turbo on over 2 block studs (dont wory about turbo connector to manifold, you should have lots of space there if you wired it up).
  5. tighten top turbo to block star head bolt from under bonnet using that long star toolWink. tighten the 2 nuts over turbo studs from below.
  6. re-install  rear engine mount (4 bolts to block) the right side lower nut is easist to do from wheel arch with wheel removed. Remember there are two bolts up top -close together -dont forget the one on the right you cant see. Reinstall the other engine mount bolts.
  7. go under bonnet, now break off the rear tab on the new turbo to manifold gasket on the gasket side with the wide thing beside the tab.
  8. yank out the 3 baling wires holding the connector to turbo in place.
  9. slide the gasket on top of the turbo between the thick flange and the turbo -make sure the edge closes to the block has the wide tab thing on it. stick a thin screwdriver in one hole and look down through all the holes to make sure you got it the correct way.
  10. tighten the 3 spline bolts.
  11. go under again, push DPF back in place, loosely bolt the 2 bottom bolts so it can slide sideways
  12. go up top, tie some thin rope through the little metal pipe on top of the dpf and run it sideways- this is so you can apply pressure to hold the gasket and stuff in place and install the clamp. (don't tie the rope to the bonnet strut - it hurts when it pulls it out and the bonnet lands on your neck Angry)
  13. make sure the metal gasket turbo to dpf fits -I wasted hours trying to fit it before I realized they send me a dud with centre too small to fit over dpf inner pipe stub.
  14. push gasket over dpf stub to turbo (concave side facing the turbo) it should stay there.
  15. mate dpf with turbo and crank on rope to hold them pressed together. I wrapped the end of rope around wing mirror about 10 times to hold in place Confused just do what works.
  16. spread clamp wide, allen bolt head on top of turbo -facing towards rear, push over turbo/dpf joint and tighten -not too tight -the thing is only spot welded together.
  17. go below and tighten the underneath dpf bolts
  18. refit the two rear exhaust hangers
  19. clamp flexi downpipe to dpf and put the airbox and pipes, connectors etc. etc. all back together.








Edited by CMP260 - 28 Nov 14 at 17:32
was a 2006 130 shuttle
now a 2006 174 multivan
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jsola View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jsola Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 20 at 09:12
And 6 years later... here comes my big thanks to you!

I however used another method. Mine is a 4motion and removing the DPF is not that easy. Even more, the transfer box would also have to be removed to gain the same access as you on the 2wd models. I felt so lazy just by thinking about it.

So instead I detached the right suspension balljoint (two M14 spline bolts), the drive axis (remove the 32mm 12-side nut), the two noise insulators hanging from the wheel arch, detached antiroll bar from subframe. This makes enough clearance for the turbo to come out.

Then you have make the turbo footprint smaller by removing the black plastic elbow in the fresh air intake of the turbo compressor. It is held in place by two 5mm Allen bolts.

BTW I found it way easier to remove the spline bolt in the middle of the turbo, that which caused you so much pain, from the bonnet side. Looking from above with a little mirror and torch you will see it just on top of the oil bolt on top of the turbo core (more on this bolt in a moment).

Grab the turbo with one hand from the bonnet, and slide it down until it rests somewhere. Then go to the right wheel... you can extract the turbo from the wheel arch! 

For all the rest, I followed your instructions and I am so thankful.

One last thing: when reinstalling the turbo and before starting the engine, it is recommended that you prime it with clean oil. Just remove a screw on top of the turbo central core (18mm) and pour some new good quality engine oil in there. Be careful everything needs to be very clean, so make sure to have removed this bolt previously while on the bench with care, and cleaned up the bores so that no debris at all enters the oil section. Replace the cheap copper gasket. 

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jsola View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jsola Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 20 at 09:29
Since I cannot edit my post, let me add a few details.

With the wheel arch method, you do not need to remove the engine mount at all. Ideally, only loosen the DPF from its rear support (two bolts). 

About the exhaust, on the 4motion moving the full exhaust assembly out of the way is not working, because it touches the rear drive axes and cannot move freely. Instead you would have to disassemble the joint close the central silencer, the joint on the DPF, and remove that section of exhaust tube. In my case this was easy. 

Overall this gives you enough access to work underneath -- indeed not as good as if you removed DPF, transfer box and engine mount, but this is a lot to remove!


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T5 TDI View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T5 TDI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 20 at 19:12
I'll add this to the 'How to do thread' jsola. Thumbs Up  Apologies to CMP260 that I seem to have missed it originally.  Great to have it updated with the 4-motion info.  

I really like to find real hands-on experience when I'm looking for info about a job I haven't done before and it's only the folks that actually bother to take the time to write it up and post pics that provide that.  Hug  

Edit-  Just seen that it is already part of the 'How to do's but it is good to see that people still notice it/use it/add to it.  Any corrections comments or updates are welcome on the How to do thread, if you have had a go, blab it out warts and all!    


Edited by T5 TDI - 30 May 20 at 21:43
2004 2.5 174
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baxmant5 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baxmant5 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jul 20 at 10:36
Just another thanks to CMP260 for this write up.

I was really struggling to locate the last bolt holding the turbo onto the block. I'll go looking for a long 10mm spline to shift it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DIZZYT5 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 20 at 23:29
anyone got the turbo to block bolt torque settings?
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