AAZ Bluestar with flipped Audi box

GavB95 wrote:

So, to recap: gear box fits rather nicely with a (purchased?) adapter plate and without bell housing machining?

Btw. how come you have the steering wheel on the the left side, being located in the UK?

Cheers!


Edited by Swabiandude - 20 Jun 18 at 12:08

The problem with any of these sorts of things is that if you 100% seal the adjuster your fine but if any moisture gets it its often worse than leaving them open as they get the chance to dry out.  I work at SPAX and the best solution to date has been to pack them with grease at build.    I've tried all sorts of fancy materials and coatings but zinc plating and dollup of grease has proved to work best..   On the AVO dampers while they are off  if you can undo the Grub screw and remove the knob.  Make sure you don't loose the tiny indexing pin and spring.   Now you should be looking at a disk with some slots in (the indexing pin makes the clicks as it passes the slots).    Wiggle and push with your thumb the adjuster screw and spray some chain lube in the hole wiggling it about to get as much in as possible.  Wipe off the excess after its set.   Then smear some axle grease over the area .  Refit the knob with indexing pin and spring.         The rear dampers don't get a continual wash and actually stay quite dry so they should stay good for years.  One of my Norwegen customers used to cut bicycle tube cut into a short band and place it over the lower half of the damper.    But realistically we don't need to do that.........Alternatively the better solution would be to buy some Brickwerks Spec Spax dampers  :)   Sorry my impartial advise broke.

Nice one, cheers mate.  

The van's back together and has a fresh MOT after a couple of weekends crawling about underneath. 

I took note of Scimdiesels advice and bought a set of stainless lines from Brickwerks to replace the plastic ones. Glad I did too as the old ones were buggered at the front and close to letting go...

I've put a new header tank in whilst the coolant was drained down...

I ended up replacing the rubber heater hoses than run the length of the van. They had gone soft, expanded and blistered after years of sitting on the diesel soaked mud. I did the line that T's into these from the back of the cylinder head too using a silicone reducer pipe from ASH. 

 

Tank going back in...

Old bodged clutch line and nice new braided one (no more sheared pipes Barry!  )...

Also replaced 2 CV joints on the offside shaft... 

I've rebuilt the steering column with new bushes in the coupling and a new bush at the base where it transfers to the relay coupling. This was the original riveted bush and was pretty badly split so I'm glad I've caught it before it let go. 

and I finally got around to wiring up the foglight too.  

I've got a set of Avo adjustable dampers to fit next.  

Edited by GavB95 - 03 Oct 16 at 12:33

With the tank out it would be very easy to change those front to rear plastic coolant pipes. 

fufflenarnia wrote: It'll be the vent pipes or sender seal, I had the sender seal out 5 times before it properly held fuel. I pressure tested it before refitting it, after the 4th attempt, it's a shit job.

It'll be the vent pipes or sender seal, I had the sender seal out 5 times before it properly held fuel.

I pressure tested it before refitting it, after the 4th attempt, it's a shit job.

Love the new wheels Gav, if you get fed up with them anytime give me a shout lol and we will do a deal again. All the best

Cheers mate, I'm really pleased with them, they were a bit of a bargain on gumtree too.

Slow day at work so a couple more updates from the last few weekends.