Passenger door lock problem |
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mattpalmer83
Newbie Joined: 09 Aug 13 Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Posted: 09 Aug 13 at 14:27 |
Hi guys, just registered and looking for a bit of help if possible.
Having a bit of trouble with my T5 passenger door lock. Basically the passenger door lock is temperamental with the central locking,
sometime it opens and locks without a problem(not very often.) Other times it will either open
and not lock or vice versa. I normally have to manually unlock it by pulling the handle from the inside or lock by pushing the pin down. Another problem the other day was that it had locked and stayed on dead lock (I think) so when I pulled the handle from inside the lock popped up but as soon as I let go of the handle the pin went down. The way around it was to hold the inside handle whilst pressing open in the key fob and it worked, almost as though something inside the lock handn't engaged. Even when the lock is in the locked position and won't open, if you look at the pin whilst pressing the open button on the key you can see it trying to move. I have read about the comfort module etc but at present it seems to be isolated to the one lock and there is obviouly a signal getting through to the mechanism as the pin moves (and sometimes works.) Normally as soon as I either open it or lock it manually, the next lock or unlock function will work. What I did notice yesterday when stood outside the passenger side and the lock was working that the mechanism appeared very loud. A hard noise to explain but it sounded dry. The closest noise I can think of is when you clear your throat but extend that noise for a couple of seconds. I'm sure that isn't right ?? Almost like a grinding noise. It is noticable from inside as well I will be stripping it soon, just wandered if the lock mech can be stripped or whether it is a sealed unit. Just want to know if it can be taken apart without random bits of metal and springs exploding around the room. Hoping some WD 40 etc will work. A new mech is around 140
so dont want to go down that route if I can help it. Any advice would be great. Thanks
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Rebuild
Yardie Joined: 01 Feb 08 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 306 |
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almost exactly the same as my problem.
locking problem is usually corrosion in the 3way wire splice(blue/red stripe with plain black, off it) under the drivers seat.Resoldering usually fixes it
For noisy door lock mech,
door lock removal
Edited by Rebuild - 09 Aug 13 at 14:54 |
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Steve
2004 T5 2.5 TDI |
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T5 TDI
Vanorak Joined: 05 Nov 05 Status: Offline Points: 3687 |
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Welcome Matt, It sounds like a physical problem with the N/S lock itself to me rather than a problem with any controller or the wiring. The lock isn't much fun to remove. Have a search around for some good lock threads here. If it was me I'd take the door trim off and try a good lubing plus watching and working the lock before removing it. Make sure the window is up before spraying around to avoid oiling the glass.
. Just to confirm- normally if you lock the doors with the remote with a single press they are double locked and no amount of pulling on the inside handle will open the door. If you lock the doors with a double press of the remote the doors they are single locked and two pulls of the inside handle opens them. . Greg (gregozedobe) wrote a good clear description of how the locks should be working. Well worth looking at. Most folks don't even realize you can wind up the windows using the ignition key. Edit- Just seen Steve's post- That's one of the good threads I mentioned! Edited by T5 TDI - 09 Aug 13 at 15:37 |
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2004 2.5 174
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mattpalmer83
Newbie Joined: 09 Aug 13 Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Thankyou both for the replies. I was edging towards the lock itself just by the way it is making a noise. I thought it would be a pain to remove but think I will start there. Although to be honest I may just take out the seat and check the wiring as tat should hopefully be a relatively straight forward job.
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T5 TDI
Vanorak Joined: 05 Nov 05 Status: Offline Points: 3687 |
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It can't hurt to check that splice. Not had a problem with mine yet 80k/9.5 years but I gather it's common enough.. Make sure to post your findings.
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2004 2.5 174
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mattpalmer83
Newbie Joined: 09 Aug 13 Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Well, i have come to the decision that I will check the wiring first as it looks an easier job than the lock. Stuck my hand down to see if there was enough slack to do it without removing the seat (as some people have found) however there wasn't. But, since having had a fiddle, it has worked better than it has done for a while....so maybe the connection is dodgy.
Went to take the seat off the base but after undoing the front nuts, I realised I don't have the correct size bit to undo the bolts holding the back part of the seat on (circular head with loads of grooves). Will have to source one tomorrow from somewhere |
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T5 TDI
Vanorak Joined: 05 Nov 05 Status: Offline Points: 3687 |
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Mine has bolts with a nut on the top like these- http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/t5-single-seat-to-bench-seat-bolts_topic37718.html
. Maybe yours has female external torx for the rear bolts? http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/160743759708?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&_lwgsi=y&cbt=y&lpid=63&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=63&ff19=0 It's worth including all your van details if you want accurate advice...
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2004 2.5 174
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mattpalmer83
Newbie Joined: 09 Aug 13 Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Sorry, thought I had put that on my signature. I have a SWB T30 05 on a 54. 1.9 104. The rear bolts on the seat are triple square/spline so have to pick up the bits tomorrow.
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gregozedobe
Vanorak Joined: 22 Dec 06 Location: Canberra, Oz Status: Offline Points: -998266 |
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Yep, T5's use lots of triple-square bolts, and smaller fasteners are often 6 point torx.
Edited by gregozedobe - 12 Aug 13 at 17:04 |
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mattpalmer83
Newbie Joined: 09 Aug 13 Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Well bought myself some triple square bits, took the seat out, strpped back the cables and there was some green corrosion on the crimp. Not the worst example I have seen but some. Joint has now been re-done
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damovdv
Newbie Joined: 02 Feb 17 Status: Offline Points: 1 |
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Did you get a resolve for this problem?
I have checked the splice and it was good. Re soldered it anyway but my passenger door still wont open on fob. I can unlock it manually from inside and have to lock it manually. I cant even hear a hint of the door mechanism trying to unlock on the fob either. Any other ideas while I have the matt out? All other doors lock and unlock on fob everytime. Would greatly appreciate some insight and dont want to go to vw for this. I am bleeding enough money already with the conversion. Edited by damovdv - 02 Feb 17 at 22:04 |
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Stryne
Groupie Joined: 28 May 14 Location: Newcastle Austr Status: Offline Points: 65 |
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Welcome damovdv,
by your description it looks like no power getting to the lock actuator for whatever reason, or the lock motor has given up, here are a few links to articles, etc, that might be of help - happyhooker's thread Rebuild's article T5TDI's article energysolutions multi-page thread an Aussie one - sunny43.5's article or paste this line into Google search passenger door site:http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum for more results |
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2005 T5 2.5L 128Kw 6SpA LWB med. roof
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gasone
Groupie Joined: 19 Mar 14 Status: Offline Points: 55 |
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I have had this problem myself now for over 6 months I did think of changing the lock but decided on getting a proper auto electrician , he removed the door panel and put a gadget on 3 wires that tell me when the door is locking that turns the neon red for a second or green when it opens , unfortunately it hasn't failed properly since
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wigwam
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 02 Oct 13 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 11 |
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My VW T5 2005 model, has just (Nov 2017) started up with what seems to be a well known "can't unlock the passenger door" problem. Because of the situation being urgent, and I needed to fuel to complete a delivery job, I decided to cut through the small plastic tab which holds the fuel flap tethered to the passenger door - thus allowing me to fill up with fuel. I'll figure out if the wiring corrosion problem is at fault as soon as I get the chance. But I mention this to say you don't need to mark the exterior of the van in any way to pass a mini - hacksaw blade through the small gap between the fuel flap and the passenger door.
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Cheaper On The Net
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T5 TDI
Vanorak Joined: 05 Nov 05 Status: Offline Points: 3687 |
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Good one The plastic tab on my fuel flap however has been missing for about 10 years since it disappeared one day. I did wonder if the flap would open at high speed but it never has. The connection is fairly straightforward. I took the seat out on mine which is surpringly heavy. You also need to undo the bolts on the handbrake lever, the plastic cover for this has a little secret button that releases it. |
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2004 2.5 174
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wigwam
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 02 Oct 13 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 11 |
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So far, in pursuit of the passenger door not unlocking problem, I've taken the top part of the driver's side seat off to investigate. VW seem to have made that harder than need be. eg. two different types of fasteners - the two rear fasteners holding the seat in place, use an odd spline type allen key to undo, and the other two fasteners at the front - a standard hexagonal nut coming away from a fixed bolt. Anyway, with the top part of the seat off, I cut away all the black cloth tape from the bundle of wires leading from the junction of wires box, down to the floor mat. There I came upon a join in the blue and red striped wire, under some insulating tape. A strange looking spliced join was revealed when I cut away the insulating tape. No sign of corrosion. This join, is a pressed join with the copper looking bright and shining. One wire leading from the join goes nowhere - it has a clean cut and taped end as if to make it available for some feature on other models. So no corroded join. As thing are, passengers still enter via the sliding door and then between the seats.
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Cheaper On The Net
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sbennetts
Newbie Joined: 03 Apr 18 Location: Truro, Cornwall Status: Offline Points: 1 |
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Hi there, did you get anywhere? I've got the same issue. Crimp joint is fine - still cannot get door open. Tried a number of suggestions including thumping the door around the lock area whilst pressing the unlock on the fob, WD40 everywhere and just keep firing the unlock button at it - all to no avail.
Car in for an MOT in the next week and need it open. Someone must have something for us? I've also tried removing the door card without being able to unlock the door but cannot get the step for the trim out to get to the bottom screws. What about the little grommet at the back of the door, I can see a T3 (or 20) bolt in there - is that a magic bolt that makes everything better? Thanks Simon
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Happy Yellow
Yardie Joined: 15 Feb 07 Location: Latvia Status: Offline Points: 263 |
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Hi all
I had this problem with my driver's door in February. I ended out replacing the lock unit (€150). Now the passenger's side has started playing up. Seems these lock units have a limited life built into them! Very accurate engineering VW! Looks like I'll be spending another €150 Rupert Edited by Happy Yellow - 22 Jul 18 at 20:47 |
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2005 Sari Yellow Caravelle 174/AXE 200k miles
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T5 TDI
Vanorak Joined: 05 Nov 05 Status: Offline Points: 3687 |
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You can get dirt cheap locks on ebay now. I bought one because my drivers side lock started mucking about but it's cured itself for now. It certainly looks pretty good quality. I think it was about 26 UKP.
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2004 2.5 174
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Delfhill
Yardie Joined: 26 Feb 07 Location: West Yorkshire Status: Offline Points: 252 |
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Just replaced my driver's side lock with a ebay sourced item,
£23.99. Works well, but a real pain to fit. Could probably do it in half the time now having done it once. I followed the threads on here which were a great help.
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4Motion 130 window van, medium roof, camper conversion.
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