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red hot exhaust manifold - lt40 2.4 petrol/lpg |
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mrhutch 
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the ginger princess Joined: 21 Aug 07 Location: Herefordshire Status: Offline Points: 5147 |
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 Posted: 23 May 18 at 13:54 |
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have you tried ringing the local dealer?
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T3 1981 Westy Vanagon - thinks lubricant is a fuel
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nooberdoober
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Joined: 23 Apr 12 Location: Cambridgshire Status: Offline Points: 271 |
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Posted: 23 May 18 at 14:31 |
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Thanks Andy. Yeah really helpful mate thank you. I've ordered the 1.5mm stuff. Bit late to get it next day so it should be here in 2-4 hopefully. Mr Hutch, do you mean local VW? They are all useless round here. If they can plug your car in and get an error code they might be able to help....real mechanics they aint! I do have a pro metal worker just round the corner. Though I might take a wander over there and ask him what he's got laying around.
Edited by nooberdoober - 23 May 18 at 14:37 |
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I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!
1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome |
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Buss Marius
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Joined: 05 Jan 16 Location: Oslo Norway Status: Offline Points: 236 |
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Posted: 23 May 18 at 20:03 |
HaHa sounds like you are describing my local VW dealer, the biggest VW dealer in the nation, owned by the importer. They run their business in the spirit of the founder of the VW Company. I haven't bought a part there for about 15 years. |
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87 Karmann LT L 2,4D. 89 T3 Syncro Reimo 1,9TD. 2000 T4 Caravelle TDI
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nooberdoober
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Joined: 23 Apr 12 Location: Cambridgshire Status: Offline Points: 271 |
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Posted: 24 May 18 at 00:01 |
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:)
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I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!
1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome |
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nooberdoober
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Joined: 23 Apr 12 Location: Cambridgshire Status: Offline Points: 271 |
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Posted: 25 May 18 at 16:31 |
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I've just found a new second hand nylon dome cap and a serviceable clip down at the lT-graveyard :) plus a bunch of other nuggets of usefulness. Well worth a visit.
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I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!
1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome |
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nooberdoober
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Joined: 23 Apr 12 Location: Cambridgshire Status: Offline Points: 271 |
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Posted: 26 May 18 at 20:06 |
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Today I've been looking more closely at the old clutch components to try and ascertain whats been going on in there prior to extracting the engine.
I have some observations and a few related questions to ask if that's OK. So here is the domed cap and sprung clip I picked up yesterday They are in pretty good condition. I'd say the little plastic dome is perfect. The pin was a tiny bit bent but not enough to worry me and i've corrected that prior to this photo:  So I set about comparing the old dome with the better one from yesterday. I want to understand what caused the old pin to snap. If you see here, the old dome seems to have eroded uniformly as if the clip had somehow managed to get out from behind the fixed stud washer and between that and the nylon ball cap:  This is also evident on the fixed washer on the old pressed stud thats still in situ on my bell-housing:  Annoyingly the above stud is pressed in to my bell-housing with an interference fit which VW must have registered as an error in design because from what I can find on later gearboxes, they improved it by swapping the pressed version for a screwed in (and thus easily serviceable) version. Yesterday I also grabbed a much better screw-in version of this stud which has none of the damage but obviously presents me with a problem:  If I wanted to replace the old stud with this newer better version, as far as I can see I would have to either cut the head off the old pressed version, drill and then tap some threads into whats left of the old stud in order to install this one OR I would have to completely extract the old stud at risk of knackering my bell-housing and fill the hole with a new pressure fitted piece of billet which i'd already tapped ready to screw in the better item. I'd like to ask advice on what any of you might do in this situation? Next, I've had the release bearing off and given it a light clean so as not to get any crap inside it. Yesterday I had the opportunity to look at another old dirty release bearing on another gearbox and noticed that although it looked far dirtier than my one, Its bearing face spun freely as though there was little grease inside it at all. In comparing this action to my release bearing I noticed that mine will turn very easily with a finger but will not spin at all. What is normal for these bearings? Should they spin freely coming to a stop after a second or two or should they turn smoothly with finger pressure but not freely spin at all? Also, upon inspection of the bearing face where it meets the pressure place springs there is noticeable erosion on mine (literally a groove) where there was not on the old dirty one i saw yesterday. Mine (notice eroded groove):  other (notice wear but not actually grooved):  Looking at the metal shaft that the release bearing sits on, I cant see anything that looks problematic:  But if you look closely at the pressure plate sprung fingers, you can see that the wear is a little bit uneven:  Any tips and pointers from the genius bar about whats been going on here and what to do about it would be very much appreciated.
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I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!
1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome |
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Monster LT
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Joined: 02 Jan 15 Status: Offline Points: 392 |
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Posted: 26 May 18 at 23:45 |
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My pennies worth (sorry not from genius bar).
Since you've come this far, if your in doubt about the bearing... get a new one. This vid shows someone spinning a new clutch bearing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o8SNwgvLpg8 As for the bell housing. Do you think you have enough space to make a clean job of cutting and tapping? If so seems like a good option. Or maybe easier, if you can get in there with a welder perhaps you can add a few blobs on the original part and file it to shape it up? Other option is go get the bell housing from the LT graveyard you mentioned. Where is that btw? Maybe the pressure plate too. Uneven wear dosn't sound / look good. Other thoughts... the uneaven wear looks like a malalignment issue with the bearing and it's relation to the shaft and fork. I would expect that that's not meant to happen and is connected to that clip snapping. You say the shaft is in good shape? Looks uneven? is there play of the bearing on shaft when fitted as it moves back & forth? Edited by Monster LT - 27 May 18 at 00:16 |
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LT45-TD-ACL-intercooler-4x4-1993
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nooberdoober
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Joined: 23 Apr 12 Location: Cambridgshire Status: Offline Points: 271 |
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Posted: 27 May 18 at 07:24 |
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Dude, you are all genius as far as I'm concerned. I'm a rank amateur with a bunch of time on his hands. Nothing more.
Thanks for that link. Yeah my guess is the bearing is knackered. It's smooth when you turn it but there certainly is not any free spin in it. Like you can't hear the bearings race. I've ordered one from GSF at the weekend prices. 16quid I think it was. Now I'm looking at full kits though so might replace the whole lot. Pressure plate, bearing and friction disc (re. robbydoo's suggestion before i'd even pulled the pistons). I think welding could be the way to go eh. Though having said that the back of the washer on that stud where the clip is meant to lock, is in fair condition. If everything gets fitted properly the new clip might not jump off again and theres nothing I can see/feel on backside of that washer to give rise to another slip. I've just checked the shaft with the bearing in situ. Bearing definitely has some play in it when its on the shaft. Not loads, but its not snug. It'll wiggle a bit but I can see how that might then affect the wear....I wonder if that was whats caused this issue. Should have grabbed the whole gearbox, you are right. Reason I didn't is because I didn't want a whole new bunch of variables added into the mix. Now though I'm thinking it might not have been a bad choice. LT graveyard....well I got a digital telling off for supplying the link into the wanted section. I don't want to get up the arse of the powers that be....so i'll say just have a look at recent posts in the wanted section regarding toothed crank pully. He brakes LT's three days a week and he's got a shed load of bits. His name is Pete. |
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I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!
1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome |
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nooberdoober
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Joined: 23 Apr 12 Location: Cambridgshire Status: Offline Points: 271 |
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Posted: 07 Jun 18 at 17:41 |
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Anyone got any tips or ideas about how to get this crank pulley bolt up to to 460nm?
I can manage 220nm with my torque wrench, but couldn't get it any tighter and stupidly i've lock tighted it, which will obviously now have set. So if i'm going to get it up to 460nm that the book suggests I'll have to undo my work, clean the threads out and redo the process with a more suitable wrench/scaffold bar. I've worked out that with something like 45kgs of force applied to a 1meter shaft I should be able to get 450NM. Thing is...how do you accurately gauge how much kilograms of force you are applying to the meter bar? |
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I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!
1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome |
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AndyT
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Joined: 16 May 08 Location: Ammanford Status: Offline Points: 2274 |
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Posted: 07 Jun 18 at 18:07 |
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Others have done this so wait a bit for reply's. If you attach 45kg weight at the 1m point that's it surely. When it stops tightening at the horizontal point.
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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k
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nooberdoober
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Posted: 07 Jun 18 at 21:20 |
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Well exactly, but how to gauge that 45kgs without a weight. I weigh 80....so half of me roughly on the end of a meter bar....
My mates opinion is that twofifty nm with lock-tight is plenty tight enough but the book wouldn't specify 460nm without good reason.
Edited by nooberdoober - 07 Jun 18 at 21:32 |
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I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!
1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome |
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Monster LT
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Joined: 02 Jan 15 Status: Offline Points: 392 |
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Posted: 08 Jun 18 at 00:25 |
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Either way you'll need to undo it and remove the loctite. Was it the blue one? If so, it dosn't loc too tight so no problem. Specs don't use loctite. It's a paste that stays soft like putty and stops the thread moving due to vibration. Did you try to borrow a proper torque wrench from a friendly local mechanic? Theory says that 45kg / 1m bar should work like you say You can workout the length of bar you'd need for 80kg weights and stand on the end of the bar until it rest horizontal like andy says... or make an extension for your torque wrench. These guys explain badly how to do that in this vid https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hqiISStnb9k ... or play by feel. Just double your effort after doing up to 220nm using a similar length bar. I'm happier using a wrench that can handle at least 600+nm. Did you get the clutch sorted?
Edited by Monster LT - 08 Jun 18 at 00:26 |
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LT45-TD-ACL-intercooler-4x4-1993
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nooberdoober
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Joined: 23 Apr 12 Location: Cambridgshire Status: Offline Points: 271 |
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Posted: 08 Jun 18 at 01:18 |
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Thanks for your input MonsterLT. Yeah it was the blue one.
So tmrw I could go over and see if I can borrow a torque wrench that goes a bit higher. When I bought my one I wasn't thinking clearly about what i'd need it for. Yeah I sorted the clutch but didn't go as far as trying to fix that stud. I did a little test with the new pin in place and I installed a new release bearing. Soon enough I'm going to get into dismantling these vehicles on a bit more of a regular basis so If I ever need to drop the gearbox and replace anything clutch-wise that hasn't stood the test of time, hopefully i'll be a bit more adept. Honestly....the summer is ticking away....I want the thing back on the road. Today I had the block back in and put the fresh new head back on. Horrible feeling putting another 180 degree turn on them bolts....And I still need to give them 2 more sets of 90degree turns once its been warmed up and then again after 600miles. Looks bloody lovely but before I start putting radiator and tank back on, I really want to do that massive pulley bolt. I'll do a pic tmrw in the daylight and show you how its coming together. I'm pretty proud but my patience is beginning to run away.
Edited by nooberdoober - 08 Jun 18 at 02:41 |
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I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!
1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome |
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BeJay
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Joined: 03 Jun 09 Location: Leicester Status: Offline Points: 1325 |
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Posted: 08 Jun 18 at 09:47 |
Basic physics says moment = force x distance so if 45kg on the end of a 1 metre bar will get you 450nm your 80kg weight on the end of a 0.56 metre (56cm) bar should get you the same 450nm, (well 448nm anyway). |
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NIL ILLIGITIMUS CARBORUNDUM
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nooberdoober
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Joined: 23 Apr 12 Location: Cambridgshire Status: Offline Points: 271 |
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Posted: 08 Jun 18 at 17:08 |
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Thanks folks. As always, helpful and reassuring.
I had the bolt off again last night. Had to do it all with the engine installed so was a bit of a bugger to stop anything moving but I managed with a perfect bit of toughened steel pry bar into the bell-housing. Cleaned the lockshite off the thing and reinstalled it. I borrowed a chunk of scaffold, marked the length at a meter and just kept pulling on it until it wouldn't turn any more. Fingers crossed.
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I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!
1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome |
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nooberdoober
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Joined: 23 Apr 12 Location: Cambridgshire Status: Offline Points: 271 |
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Posted: 09 Jun 18 at 12:57 |
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Just like to say thank you to everyone who has put their advice and encouragement onto here while i've been slowly chugging away on this project.
My first ever complete reconditioning of anything mechanical whatsoever. :) Here's a look at at the block in situ without the head back on. It weren't easy getting that heavy thing back in on target. In the end we had one bloke on the crane, one on the bell-housing and one of us straddling the block to aid in getting the tilt of the engine right so that it could find its resting place properly onto the mounting blocks. Slightly shorter chain on the front of the block too, to lift the front end a bit higher. It went in with only two chains in the end. Both fixed to the passenger side of the block to help it hang tilted and to aid my mate straddling the thing to locate it properly.  God knows how you'd get the whole engine in with the head on etc. Better crane I suppose. It was tight enough going through the door with the just the short block. Last look at them shiny new custom oversize pistons before they get shut away for good:  Here's the bar I ended up using to get that crank pulley done up nice and tight. I honestly have no idea how tight, but it must be over the 400nm mark. Notice my toothpick sized torque wrench that only allows me up to 220:  Then here's the head back on after the excruciating 3rd stage of tightening them head bolts that last 180 degrees. We only managed to do each bolt in two separate 90 degree turns rather than one full 180 turn:  |
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I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!
1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome |
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nooberdoober
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Joined: 23 Apr 12 Location: Cambridgshire Status: Offline Points: 271 |
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Posted: 09 Jun 18 at 13:04 |
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Any last advice anyone might have about the process of getting the oil pressure up and the galleries full without actually firing the engine?
Spark plugs out or just disconnect the distributor from the coil before cranking it over for 30 seconds?
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I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!
1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome |
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T3 Nev
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Joined: 05 Mar 12 Location: West Sussex Status: Offline Points: 195 |
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Posted: 09 Jun 18 at 23:04 |
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Both, plugs out and coil lead off.
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nooberdoober
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Posted: 10 Jun 18 at 10:00 |
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Tnx Nev. Will do that then.
In the meanwhile I topped the thing up with coolant only to notice the thermostat housing was leaking a bit. So I undid it thinking there was no o-ring installed behind it, only to find that there was the correct o-ring in place. Back on with the cap and do it up a tiny bit tighter.....Crack....Housing now in two pieces. Ive ordered a shite looking used part off fleabay that might end up being OK and have put the feelers out for a better looking option. Also in meanwhile have ordered one of them proper thermostats with the bleed valve which mine never had and probably never needed. Brickwerks product list seems to be getting better.
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I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!
1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome |
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LTCamper89
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Joined: 18 Apr 12 Location: The Toon Status: Offline Points: 4285 |
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Posted: 11 Jun 18 at 12:11 |
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Inspirational.........and not in a Britains' Got Talent way.
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1989 LT28 2.4D Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music
VW LT Camper not Cramper ....at least the roof is not rusting away.... |
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nooberdoober wrote: