Brakes locked on LT35 |
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toxo
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 10 Apr 11 Location: Medway Status: Offline Points: 11 |
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Posted: 14 Mar 13 at 11:58 |
Got in it on Sunday and couldn't move it. Puzzling because I'd come back from Dover the day before. Just read that frozen cables are common because moisture gets inside, is this true? If so is there any particular part of the cable that's susceptible to freezing?
I replaced the front pads a while back and I couldn't get the wire sender thingy all the way in. Since then I get an intermittent red warning light on the dash. Then I started getting the orange warning light that looks like a lightbulb filament coming on intermittently and I found that If I touched the brake peddle it would go away. When I came off the motorway on Saturday the brake peddle went way down before activating the brakes. When they did work they felt normal and stopped the van ok. It stayed like this until I got home. Got one wheel off yesterday and all looks ok. Will get the other wheel off today and have a closer look at the h/brake cable. Servo seems ok although when I hold the brake peddle down hard there is some creep. Brake fluid is normal. Any ideas anyone? Thanks. |
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LTCamper89
Vanorak Joined: 18 Apr 12 Location: The Toon Status: Offline Points: 4285 |
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You do not say LT1 or LT2.
On LT1s the covered cable is quite short and I have never had a problem with freezing, up in't north east. The lightbulb filament is your glowplug heater which 'should' come on when you turn your ignition key and wait for it to go out before starting, on a diesel at least. Braking may just make the circuit, accelerating may break the circuit causing the light to come on again. Dodgy connection somewhere. Regarding the flooring of the brake pedal, either fluid loss, dangerous, or air in the lines, not necessarily as dangerous. I know mine need doing again because pumping them once brings a rock solid pedal. While you have the rear wheels off check the automatic adjuster for the shoes. Mine where not moving at all, meaning that when you have moved all the fluid you can at the pedal the shoes cannot get any closer to the drums, thus less braking. See you in the Brickies for a virtual Bottle of Dog later, toxo
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1989 LT28 2.4D Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music
VW LT Camper not Cramper ....at least the roof is not rusting away.... |
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toxo
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 10 Apr 11 Location: Medway Status: Offline Points: 11 |
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Thanks LT.
It's a T reg, 99 I think. Pads and shoes (handbrake) on the back. I'm still trying to work out how to fit the little curly spring thing in the middle. It's driving me up the wall. |
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AndyT
Moderator Group Joined: 16 May 08 Location: Ammanford Status: Offline Points: 2274 |
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Check your brake fluid in the reservoir for bubbles when you have got the brakes back together, and the vacuum pipe to the brake servo for air leaks. Either could be the cause of the brake creep you describe.
Most of the LT's on the forum are older so I don't have a pic of the rear brakes and the spring. I'd see if you can get a Haynes manual, or very carefully jack up the other side and have a look there. If the original was broken the brakes could be binding and would explain the problem you describe, i.e. locked on. |
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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k
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toxo
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 10 Apr 11 Location: Medway Status: Offline Points: 11 |
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Thanks Andy, will check the servo. Decided to fit new h/brake shoes anyway but because of the wheel hub being in the way I had a hell of a time trying to get the middle clip in the shoe (the one that holds the shoe against the backplate)until I realised I could insert it through one of the holes in the hub doh! Haven't done the other side yet but did find the h/brake cables binding from the equaliser back. Had to whack it with a hammer to get the shoes off the drum. If I don't find anything glaring with the other shoes, it has to be a problem within the cables somehow.
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AndyT
Moderator Group Joined: 16 May 08 Location: Ammanford Status: Offline Points: 2274 |
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Best advice I can offer is to clean everything up, removing all rust etc where 2 metal components rub together and apply grease sparingly.
With the handbrake disconnected get a helper to slowly lift the handbrake while you hold onto the other end. If the cable is binding internally it may not even move at all, or you may have to pull it back out. Should move easily. Shame you are not local cos it's probably something a second pair of eyes could spot. |
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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k
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toxo
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 10 Apr 11 Location: Medway Status: Offline Points: 11 |
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Thanks for the thought Andy.
Handbrake now freed up and adjusted. Still leaves the problem with the air leak. Must be an air leak because there is plenty of fluid. Have tried washing up liquid with the engine running but I suspect I'm gonna have to do it with someone pressing on the brake pedal. Anywhere in particular I should look for a leak? Paul |
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AndyT
Moderator Group Joined: 16 May 08 Location: Ammanford Status: Offline Points: 2274 |
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If its the servo side it will be a rubber hose letting air IN and reducing the vacuum.
Also check for bubbles in the reservoir when pressing the pedal. |
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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k
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