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Rear Wheel Bearings. How to

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surfingmonkey1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote surfingmonkey1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Rear Wheel Bearings. How to
    Posted: 22 Mar 13 at 17:52
Yeah, that was me. I've got everything else off to the point where in want to get the bearings. The post above mentions removing the circlip before pressing the bearings out but i can't figure out how to get the circlip out. Can't see it for starters!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark-Hans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar 13 at 19:49
Err, I just got called in from the Opel GT forum. Someone doesn't understand something about the rear wheel bearing hubs? What do you exactly not understand? , Maybe I can help. You mentioned something about circlips?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote max and caddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar 13 at 19:46
Originally posted by corvusstation corvusstation wrote:

Nice write up. When I did mine I went to the local hauliers and asked if they had anything rated to 500ftlbs upon which they presented me with a 5ft long 1000ftlb torque wrench plus sockets! It made the job a piece of cake and only cost me a crate of beer.


Not sure where your at but I will take half a crate of beer for a go on my 1000 nm torque wrench anytime..!

You did mean nm? 500 ft pounds for the rear nuts is to tight...by a good bit.

Edited by max and caddy - 18 Mar 13 at 19:48
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote surfingmonkey1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar 13 at 19:34
Hi, this is brilliant!

I have managed to follow it all until getting to the circlip behind the inner oil seal - just can't figure that bit out

Any ideas/pics?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lambretta lee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov 12 at 19:04
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark-Hans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Nov 12 at 16:55
Everything should be paid in Beer (or Vodka).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote corvusstation Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Nov 12 at 15:26
Nice write up. When I did mine I went to the local hauliers and asked if they had anything rated to 500ftlbs upon which they presented me with a 5ft long 1000ftlb torque wrench plus sockets! It made the job a piece of cake and only cost me a crate of beer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jed the spread Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov 12 at 10:24
No worries I hope some might find it useful.

Jed
[URL=http://www.whatatool.com[/URL]

My real name is Jarrod Walsh my number is 07940177101 or email Jed@campervanCulture.com for enquiries.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark-Hans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov 12 at 10:16
I am laughing out loud & crying!...... Fab Video, but a bit 'alice in wonderland'

His Hubs were perfect. Like 5 years old. No corrosion, everything 'slipped off easily'. Sure, the short cuts look effective... BUT>>>>>>WARNING. He 'bent' the brake pipe back..... an absolute NO NO. He could have caused a hair pin fracture in the metal brake line. One day, he'll stab those brakes SO hard, it will shatter. This is utterly stupid and highly dangerous. NEVER, EVER, DO THIS. A child's life might end because of this crazy short cut!....Simply, don't DO this, PLEASE.

His hubs 'tapped' out, mine took a hydraulic press, mostly of them do.

It's all up to you at the end of the day..., but one thing is King, Brakes are someone's life. Don't mess with them.

Thanks for the Vid. Was fascinating.

Edited by Mark-Hans - 17 Nov 12 at 10:17
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jed the spread Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov 12 at 09:54
Originally posted by Mark-Hans Mark-Hans wrote:

Jed. The link doesn't seem to work.

No 6 refers to releasing the brake back plates. This 'has' to be done, because the job is impossible with the brake back plate in place!..... Also, you need to remove the drive shaft to press out the stub axle assembly.

No entirely sure where you are coming from here!.... but I'd be curious.

It must be because the swear filter changes t 2 5 to t3 in the link. I cant really take credit for the tips, it was Russel formally from Syncro-nutz that showed me this way when we had to change a failed bearing on the roadside on one of our trips. Saves loads of time though.

Try here,


[URL=http://www.whatatool.com[/URL]

My real name is Jarrod Walsh my number is 07940177101 or email Jed@campervanCulture.com for enquiries.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark-Hans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov 12 at 09:20
Jed. The link doesn't seem to work.

No 6 refers to releasing the brake back plates. This 'has' to be done, because the job is impossible with the brake back plate in place!..... Also, you need to remove the drive shaft to press out the stub axle assembly.

No entirely sure where you are coming from here!.... but I'd be curious.
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jed the spread View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jed the spread Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov 12 at 09:10
You dont have to do number 6 or take the drive shaft off. Look at 2.25 onward here for a much quicker and easier way Wink



Jed


Edited by jed the spread - 17 Nov 12 at 09:48
[URL=http://www.whatatool.com[/URL]

My real name is Jarrod Walsh my number is 07940177101 or email Jed@campervanCulture.com for enquiries.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark-Hans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov 12 at 08:46
Question. About to do the Front Bearings. You want a pictures/description of that?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark-Hans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov 12 at 08:42
Read the link, that's enough to put everyone off. Hope my description corrects the nightmare. I have to say, while soaking all those bolts I too was wondering about what would come of all of this. Couple of points if you are reading this thread. PREPARATION is VERY important. It's not rocket science, but I can't express enough that if you screw this job up in any way, your buggered!, big time. SO, for example, when removing the brake pipe from the Brake Cylinder, use a proper brake pipe spanner. (5 sided open end, 11mm). Then taking out the bleed nipple, use a 7mm ring and ease it out 'very' gently. Most come out!. The rest you know. It is also true that the back plates of the brakes almost always disintegrate, so before you do the job, have new cylinders, new backplates and a brake shoe fitting kit (springs/clips).

So, here's a shopping list.
2 x Wheel Bearing Kits.
2 wheel cylinder kits..(optional, but always handy to have).
Brake Pipe Spanner.
Copper Slip Grease.
LM Grease.
WD 40.
2 Brake Pipe Clamps.
Bleeding kit...(jam jar, rubber hose).
Brake Fluid.
2 Rear Brake Back Plates.
Brake Shoe fitting kit.
46mm 6 sided Socket. 3/4 drive.
Extension bar for above socket,
Trolley Jack Handle (or even longer extension).
Pair of Hobby Rubber Glove

Preparation is indeed the road to success.
And really, it isn't 'that' bad..

Mark


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote itchyfeet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov 12 at 20:15
Jack it up and actually measure the movement of the tyre at the tread, mine felt like they had alot of play but when measured there was only 1-2mm movement at the tread ( max diameter of tyre)
 
 
good effort MH, you are now an honary HBThumbs Up


Edited by itchyfeet - 16 Nov 12 at 20:22
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Benji89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov 12 at 18:38
I think there gone as there is a fair bit of slop on one corner.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark-Hans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov 12 at 16:33
Before you dive in too deep, check a couple of things out. There is a small amount of play allowed, so just a noticeable bit, but not too much. You can prise out the front oil seal and look at the outer bearing and re-pack it with grease. Fit a new oil seal. If you find it very dry, or an excess of play, then maybe it's time. My old ones had done 180,000 miles and were 'just' beginning to whine. Good luck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Benji89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov 12 at 14:37
Very helpfull. Just cleaned the rear brakes and noticed i have some play in the rear wheel! Next job on the list!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Nov 12 at 14:05
cheers mark very informative.
lambretta lover but there is room for the t3
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark-Hans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Nov 12 at 09:23
As requested.
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