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Westfalia water tap / pump not working

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radman View Drop Down
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    Posted: 30 Mar 12 at 12:24
Hi
 
I'd be very grateful for some pointers please! The westy water tap has just stop working, mechanically turns without abnormal resistance etc, two electrical contacts at base of tap appear OK. Electrical contacts look ok at the top of the water tank etc. Can anyone point me to the fuse responsible for the water pump?
 
Any help would be appreciated, meant to be going away this weekend
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JonnyAtlantic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 12 at 20:05
Two fuses in a small black box on the b-post behind the drivers seat. Ceramic ones, they fuse the fridge Eber and water tap.
If there ok Multimeter to check if you have power to pump, connections to it on top of tank under inspection flap in left cupboard under table. Two wires for water level gauge, other two for water pump.
(Brickwerks, (click on logo top right) do replacement pumps if it foobarred.)

Turn on tap to open connection and see if it turns on pump power supply.
If no power at pump when fuses ok faucet connections could be duff or faucet switch issue, you might need to replace tap if it can't be repaired.
Good luck with it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red Westie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 12 at 23:33
In my experience it will be one of the following:
 
. There is pin in the center of the tap which moves when the tap is operated. This pin basically seizes up so does not release to operate the microswitch. Just needs stripping/cleaning and lubing but be careful not to damage the small sealing 'o'ring.
 
. The microswitch itself can become corroded and non operational from water running directly onto it (replacent available from Maplins)
 
' The two fuses on the B post can become loose in the fuse holder.. clean/re-tension and refit fuses.
 
. There is a multi connector with bullit type terminals inside the storage compartment (the liftup lid closest to the wardrobe) the terminals and wires become loose...pull apart and remake the connections.
 
.The submersible pump can seize up....remove the screws from the top of the fresh water container to access the pump, give it one or two taps whilst being operated.
 
Martin
 
 


Edited by Red Westie - 16 Apr 12 at 23:34
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mattjarvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr 12 at 07:07
There is also a small nut and bolt underneath the tap which holds the microswitch in place - if it's too tight the microswitch doesn't move enough.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote radman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Apr 12 at 21:52
Thank You for all of your comments and suggestions. After trying all of the above, with out success I decided to do with out it and take bottled tap water. Yes you guessed it then decided to work spontaneously whilst away. I've put it down to the micro switch at the base of the tap - there appears to be a bit of movement and this resulted in the inital fault? LOL Had a good few days in Cornwall, sea temp 8 degrees celcius  Wacko
Used the Eber heater - which worked well but kept on clicking beyond the initial ignition stage? I think this will have to be my next post Confused
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mattjarvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Apr 12 at 07:25
There is supposed to be movement in it, if there's not enough movement it won't come on at all with the tap open, and too much movement it's on all the time even when the tap is closed. The symptom on mine was that if you pulled slightly on the cable it would come on, which I put down to dodgy contacts but eventually figured out was the nut being too tight.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote roj62 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Apr 12 at 15:40
Ive had problems with mine in the past and I've found the problem almost always can be trace back to the microswitch. quickest way to check the fuse it to toggle the control panel switch as these go via the same fuse.

replacement micro switches can be got at maplins. you need to trim the lever arm down with pliers first though. you don't need to take the whole tap apart to get the microswitch out as there is a plastic bracket with two pins that hold it in place so swapping them is a  2 second job.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote radman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Apr 12 at 22:27
Thanks again for your help
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red Westie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 12 at 23:36
The continuos clicking noise from the Ebber is the pump and quite normal.
 
As for the tap......first thing I do when/if the pump plays up is to whip out the cutlery draw, undo the tap and work the mircroswitch by hand a few times.
 
Martin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peel567 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 12 at 11:27
Hi can I add to this thread? New to westfalia and in fact to T3. Hope you can help!

Our tap has stopped working. Was pumping water (albeit a bit of a weedy flow but I presume this is normal). Tap switch did feel a bit unreasuring but worked. Then the pump wouldn't switch off for a bit, and then wouldn't come back on.

From the above suggestions I assumed the problem was the microswitch, so have skinned my knuckles and managed this morning to take it all apart.

So. Fuses are fine. Pin in centre of tap moves OK. I can operate the microswitch manually either by pushing in the centre of the brass block or with a screwdriver behind the brass block. BUT none of this sets the pump away.

A complication is that I have broken a spade terminal holding wire to the microswitch in getting it all out but I think holding it all together with the switch activated should do the trick.

I wonder if the original problem was with the switch but the pump not turning off has worn it out. Would this be plausible? Was only running for 10 mins or so.

If I simply short the terminals which were attached to the microswitch, should this activate the pump? I presume the switch is a push-to-close type but I have no prior knowledge of vehicle electrics!

How do I further investigate the pump? I have read things like use a multimeter but I wouldn't know what to poke with the probes and what to look for. Having broken a few bits I don't want to keep going blind!

thanks in advance for your help



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peel567 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 12 at 14:01
I have answered my own question!

Touching together the two crimp terminals which connect to the microswitch operates the pump. So the pump is OK and the fuses are OK but the switch must be faulty. 

Off to maplins.......

dave

ps the top of the water tank appears to be welded shut. Does it just unscrew? I presume the wires going into the cap are for the level gauge and the co-axial cable going into the tank directly is for the pump.
dave
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