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EJ20 Help with overheating

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BobStar View Drop Down
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    Posted: 10 Oct 11 at 19:27

Hi guys can anybody give me some tips, picked up a Multivan with a Ej20 lump in the back runs like a dream but I cant let her idle without her over heating , the last owner said the Red light on the temp stays on ( should have sent alarm bells ) and the Temp needle sits just above it, well it doesnt any more, it rockets up to the high end of the guage within 10 minutes.

Opened up the engine cover and the water tank is bubberling over...and the espantion tank is sitting there carmly like nothing is going on

Any tips and points to check would be really really really helpful :)

Cheers Team


Edited by BobStar - 10 Oct 11 at 20:05
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BobStar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Oct 11 at 19:38
Please do ask if more info is needed I can try my best to get the information correct
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Allanw View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allanw Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct 11 at 02:34
1: Is the heater circuit open? You CANNOT block the flow through the subaru heater pipes, or it will not operate the thermostat

2: Is the radiator blocked? - Does it get warm when the engine is warm? Feel the hoses along their length, right up to the front - if it's all cold, there's no flow.

3: is the radiator fan connected to the Subaru ECU to control the fan?

4: Are you sure all the air is out of the system?
Allan :-)

'84 T3 Kombi, EJ25 DOHC, apprentice Viking...

Duct Tape can't fix stupid, but it can MUFFLE the sound.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allanw Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct 11 at 02:36
Oh yeah, what year is the van? Does the red light flash when you start it, then stay on, or go off?

How full is the coolant tank? (NOT the one inside the flap, the pressure tank in the engine bay)
Allan :-)

'84 T3 Kombi, EJ25 DOHC, apprentice Viking...

Duct Tape can't fix stupid, but it can MUFFLE the sound.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BobStar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct 11 at 07:16
1: Is the heater circuit open? You CANNOT block the flow through the subaru heater pipes, or it will not operate the thermostat: I am sure the heater system is working I had to turn it down as the Girlfriend started Melting

2: Is the radiator blocked? - Does it get warm when the engine is warm? Feel the hoses along their length, right up to the front - if it's all cold, there's no flow.  I will have to check

3: is the radiator fan connected to the Subaru ECU to control the fan? Yeah it turns on and stays on as the van starts to overheat

4: Are you sure all the air is out of the system? How can I check ?
 
5:Oh yeah, what year is the van? Does the red light flash when you start it, then stay on, or go off? 1990 Van Red light flickers on then goes of for 30 secounds then stays on..
6:How full is the coolant tank? (NOT the one inside the flap, the pressure tank in the engine bay) When I checked it I would say it was just under half full, Its bellow the pipe where water is pumped back into the tank.


Cheers Allan
Rob

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allanw Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct 11 at 00:29
The heater circuit MUST have a bypass fitted (or use the Tom Sheils adapter - great mod that is!) - it has to have water circulating even when the heater is turned off - the Subaru engine has a feedback system via the heater (in the subaru car, the heater has hot water through it ALL the time, and the airflow is changed to determine whether you have heat or not.

Air... Start the engine up, and leave it idling. On the top of the radiator (remove grill) there is a bleed screw. Once the engine is warmed a bit, crack the screw open a bit and see if air or coolant comes out - all the air should get bled out here.

Also, some thermostats can be fitted backwards (usually aftermarket ones) and can cause it to never open too  - the main body of the thermostat should be inside the engine, not in the housing that bolts on.

While you are looking at the thermostat, check the black steel coolant pipe (10 or 15 mm??) that feeds into the engine directly behind the thermostat - that pipe should be connected somewhere so it has contant water feed from the engine near the top (it's the feedback pipe which I mentioned first). See here: http://subaruvanagon.com/tom/Cooling System.htm

When you say the light stays on, does it stay on constantly? not flashing? I didn't think it should do that?

The pressure tank should be full - there should be no air - you could have a head gasket issue, but it depends on how the tank is set up too.
Allan :-)

'84 T3 Kombi, EJ25 DOHC, apprentice Viking...

Duct Tape can't fix stupid, but it can MUFFLE the sound.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Griff71 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Oct 11 at 22:26
Do you know how the motor is fitted?  i.e does it use RJES parts?  Important we know this as this will determine whether your loom has been set up properly to run with the vw parts and the subaru engine and also what cooling set up you have.  See 'rjes.com' for diagram.

Check for any leaks in the system, however small even if they are not visibly leaking fluid the system must pressurise.  A loose clip will allow it to take on air.

Try a different cap on your header tank.

Is your header tank full and does it stay full.  

Is the expansion tank at maximum level and does this stay at this level.  If it rises above max this is bad.  Dropping level is ok as it means your system is taking on more fluid.  However if you are filling this regularly it would suggest you are losing it elsewhere.  Leaking pipes or exhaust?

Does your engine sit flat using the Subaru engine  mounts or is it fitted at an angle to get around sump clearance issues.  (this will cause overheating with ej engines). Don't ask me why but it does.  But it solved all my cooling issues.

Get hold of a block tester:


This will tell you instantly if you have exhaust gas leaking into the cooling system.  Common problem on ej engines (head gasket and a relatively straight forward fix if you can use a spanner).

Any white gunk in oil?

Check all these and i am sure you will find the source of the problem.  I have had numerous heating issues and have sorted them now.  Engine runs sweet as and was well worth the hassle getting sorted. So stick with it.  
89 Doka (EJ25 conversion)Sold
71 Bug (1955cc twin 40s)
65 Ragtop Bug (Mrs Griff)
98 Subaru Legacy GTB (330hp)
06 VW T5 1.9tdi T28
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BobStar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Oct 11 at 06:54
Cheers for all the Help guys, looks like the thermstat had broken , I have Spannerboy checking it out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allanw Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Oct 11 at 23:40
Sweet - It's nice when it's something "easy" (and CHEAP!)
Allan :-)

'84 T3 Kombi, EJ25 DOHC, apprentice Viking...

Duct Tape can't fix stupid, but it can MUFFLE the sound.
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