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Underseal to a T3, well any motorhome really

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wbmkk View Drop Down
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    Posted: 26 Aug 11 at 20:44
www.urbanhives.co.uk (linking beekeepers looking for hive space, with landowners who have space)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tee3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug 11 at 20:55
wash it with a pressure washer, blow/scrub all the loose bits off.

Use a product like Dinitrol

YOU CANT EDUCATE GAMMON

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote max and caddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug 11 at 21:47
yup, pressure wash it, drive about on a hot dry day so its not even a teeny bit damp anywhere, then wire brush any loose stuff off and blast away with a shutz gun, waxy underseal is best..waxoyl is not that good but dinitrol etc are very good if a tad pricey.
 
 
BUT! dont forget rust starts from the inside as well....so have a really good look at rust traps on your van and then get some cavity wax aerosols with a flexi wand on, remove rubber bungs and get into your box sections, inside doors, rear 1/4s etc..the arch seam and kithen wall flanges need extra wax, i even do window frames but i am a bit obsesed i think!
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wbmkk View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wbmkk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug 11 at 22:23
Thanks for your replies ... I'll buy some Dinitrol and  get busy Smile
www.urbanhives.co.uk (linking beekeepers looking for hive space, with landowners who have space)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TransPorscher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug 11 at 22:42
Bottom of B pillars, the sills and inside box sections above the rear jacking point and in front of rear wheels WILL have rust inside. Doesn't matter how old or mileage of the van. It might look ok from the outside but believe me it won't be inside. I use a product called Vactan ( off ebay etc ) to treat the rust. I've just poured it into all the above mention areas on my South African T3. Then spray Dinitrol into them  Front B pillars can be accessed through the air vents in the door jams, rear areas can be accessed behind the trim on either side of the rear seat area. And this is just the start. . . . . . . . . . . . . .    .         .Wink

Edited by TransPorscher - 26 Aug 11 at 23:25
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T3ADICT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug 11 at 01:40
i was chating to a guy from near madrid the other day about t3 vans.. he couldnt understand all the rust problems we have....
 
the biggest problem they worry about is tubs of filler being used on bad paintjobs..
 
have to say i dont rate the spay on underseal... prefer the tubs of super thick brush on stuff.. much more protection.
 
a guy local to me that has a workshop, has been restoring beetles for years. (loads more rust) ..
he said the same thing. the spray on stuff covers and makes it look nice.. but its a crappy thin coat..
the thick stuff you have to scoop out of the tin gives a much thicker layer.
YES it takes longer but then anything thats done right will take longer.
 
 
WHY T3's.... because they are just so adictive, and having one just aint enough
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joker_Club Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug 11 at 08:20
Read the independant tests on Dinitrol, classic car mags reckon it`s the bollox Thumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote max and caddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug 11 at 11:04
i have and they do but bilt hambers stuff beat it in practical classics tests, but still very good stuff and up to the job.  either applied properly is as thick as it can be brushed on and will be a more unifom thickness, also looks better, your beetle mate might mean hammerites waxoyl which is a bit pap, vw own stuff or dini/bilts stuff is like a sticky claggy wax, once it sets its like candle wax and will take a 100 degree+ steam washer to shift it.
 
the only issue your ever likely to get is if the substrate is unsound it may peel but really unlikley, just touch it up every 12 months or so round the "heavy traffic" areas and i assure you it will not fail you.  


Edited by max and caddy - 27 Aug 11 at 11:11
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T3ADICT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug 11 at 14:02
 the stuff ive used is like tar...  not the cheap stuff that halfrauds and the like sell..
 
ive used a few different spray on types and its never a thick coat.. and needs to be as you say touched up every 12 monts or so..
 
 
the best stuff ive used was AEROCOAT,  its ment for spraying onto leading edge parts of aircraft..
VERY VERY hard finish, the stuff i used was left over paint that had been mixed and was going off/thick..
brushed on very well and sets with a nice matt finish that can be jet washed down very well..
its that hard that it will wear out 80grit sanding disks before you even get to see sanding marks.
 
 
 
 
WHY T3's.... because they are just so adictive, and having one just aint enough
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BUBBLE MEISTER Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Sep 11 at 16:57
Dinitrol - thats whats keeping mine alive. Got mine done at Rustbusters (www.rust.co.uk).
Now they've done the hard work, all I have to do is keep on top of it every year. I bought plenty of spare cans off them. I changed all the front undercarriage and covered everything after. (nope - not the brakes - im not that silly!!)
I have BUBBLE the '85B 1.9DF (currently a DG!) WBX Camper. 29 Yrs Young. Tis Tracie's V Bubble U.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep 11 at 14:43
Brickwerks did mine with Dinitrol.  It has stopped some of the existing rust in it's tracks, and will hopefully make the van live longer than otherwise would be the case.  Watching it being done I would not want to do it myself, let alone without a 2 post lift.  Well worth the investment I reckon!
 
PaulG
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote max and caddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep 11 at 18:12
easy way to get that spanish ladys man tan?
 
 
(not lady boy, thats different)
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