How to: AXD Manifold and Turbo Removal

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   arg, I just bought this van 2 weeks ago., how can love go to hate so fast!

I got the middle bit of the exhaust of by grinding its nuts off the clamp -fucker was totally rust welded. Now I cant get the stupid flathead bolts out even with a lump hammer - looks like Ill be drilling them. 

Front support bolts came out ok, overnight wd 40 worked a treat.

I loosened the turbo clamp but thats as far as Ive got, I can't pull the pipe off -even banged it with the lump hammer since it was still at hand from the last bit. 

you got any any tricks or hints for this bit?
cheers

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CMP260 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 02 Mar 12 Location: wales Status: Offline Points: 170	Post Options Post Reply Quote CMP260 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 Apr 12 at 18:20
	arg, I just bought this van 2 weeks ago., how can love go to hate so fast! I got the middle bit of the exhaust of by grinding its nuts off the clamp -fucker was totally rust welded. Now I cant get the stupid flathead bolts out even with a lump hammer - looks like Ill be drilling them. Front support bolts came out ok, overnight wd 40 worked a treat. I loosened the turbo clamp but thats as far as Ive got, I can't pull the pipe off -even banged it with the lump hammer since it was still at hand from the last bit. you got any any tricks or hints for this bit? cheers

Liquidfreak Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Yardie Joined: 25 Feb 08 Location: Cornwall Status: Offline Points: 839	Post Options Post Reply Quote Liquidfreak Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 Apr 12 at 18:45
	Yeah like I said, this job is an utter c#nt! You need I open the clamp up. If you look at the clamp there is an inner clasp. I you place a flathead screw driver on it and tap it with a hammer it'll come off. Might need to do it from below and above. Maybe stick some WD40 around it and leave it overnight, although WD40 is pish compared to Plusgas. Good luck dude.
	2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine

CMP260 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 02 Mar 12 Location: wales Status: Offline Points: 170	Post Options Post Reply Quote CMP260 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 Apr 12 at 19:56
	took ur advice on that one- plusgas in the post!

Liquidfreak Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Yardie Joined: 25 Feb 08 Location: Cornwall Status: Offline Points: 839	Post Options Post Reply Quote Liquidfreak Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 Apr 12 at 20:56
	Good lad!
	2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine

CMP260 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 02 Mar 12 Location: wales Status: Offline Points: 170	Post Options Post Reply Quote CMP260 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Apr 12 at 17:10
	yay, 2 days of blood sweat, cursing, toil, mutliple cuts and scrapes and its off. I think I can lay claim to extra joy since I had air con pipes over the exhaust manifold to make it even more fun. only one accident - turbo to egr bolt. -they come off if you take your time and wiggle back and forth but they shear if you force them. 1 down. lets hope it drills out ok. WTF are those bolts made from anyway? theyre not magnetic. There was no 4th (side) bolt on my turbo -but theres a rusty threaded hole, does it matter? It looks like just the first pipe is cracked, should I get any others re-welded / strengthened anyway just in case? Or maybe this is the excuse Ive been looking for to buy a mig welder (only done a bit of arc welding before). Is it hard to weld stainless? do I need special mig wire? Or should I leave this to the pros?

Liquidfreak Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Yardie Joined: 25 Feb 08 Location: Cornwall Status: Offline Points: 839	Post Options Post Reply Quote Liquidfreak Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Apr 12 at 19:30
	It isn't stainless bud, you took the heat shield off right? I only did the failed one. When I welded it I made a wooden brace for the manifold to bolt onto so that it wouldn't warp with the heat. Put some holes in the brace so the manifold can breathe. Not sure about the 4th hole. In theory it can't twist, but I expect it could help relieve stress from exhaust movement should the engine mount fail.
	2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine

stiggy Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 11 Apr 12 Location: Devon Status: Offline Points: 2	Post Options Post Reply Quote stiggy Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Apr 12 at 19:37
	Hello all.. Well it seems my '56'reg 2.5 130 has developed the same problem .. I get the fluttering sound when accelerating and fumes in the cab. After reading pages and pages of reports on this and many other forums it sounds like a very common fault. I think in most cases the cracks appear right by the welds. We have a very experienced engineer at work and he informs me the best welding would be 'tig'. I am going to attempt the torrettes inducing task of removing my manifold and getting as many of the original welds ground down and then re-welded with 'tig' .. If this is successful I will be sure to let you guys know. I guess I may be in a envious position as this will only cost me my own time but even if its a days labour at cost it may be a cheaper option for some of you. Ade
	If it's got tits or tyres it's trouble..

CMP260 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 02 Mar 12 Location: wales Status: Offline Points: 170	Post Options Post Reply Quote CMP260 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Apr 12 at 22:51
	sure looked like ss, but now I tihnk about it the welds are rusty... thanks almost used ss stick on it!

CMP260 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 02 Mar 12 Location: wales Status: Offline Points: 170	Post Options Post Reply Quote CMP260 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 Apr 12 at 20:27
	well whaddya know, its not just the first port leaking . shouldve guessed. from other posts... Screwed maniflod to plank of wood to stop it warping, mig welded it, air tested it with soap suds... port 2 and 5 also cracked (and leakage from new weld ).. didnt even notice the tiny cracks until suds test. Word of advice to those attempting this job, suds/air test it after you weld it, or you may well have to do it all again later According to vwteeside the part numbers listed in previous post are out of date, but they can suppy 2 x gaskets and all nuts for £25 all in. Ther reason I thought it was stainless is there seems to be stainless plates attached to the front of each port on mine (sort of like the opposite of gaskets on the side the nuts go). Anyone elses look like this? dont have a clue why its like this maybe for added strength or reacts less with copper nuts,

CMP260 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 02 Mar 12 Location: wales Status: Offline Points: 170	Post Options Post Reply Quote CMP260 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Apr 12 at 13:48
	Liquidfreak, when you put it all back togethetr did you use a torque wrench on the manifold and turbo? (and loctite). if you used torque wrench, could you post the torques for each bolt on here for the rest of us numptys? ta

Liquidfreak Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Yardie Joined: 25 Feb 08 Location: Cornwall Status: Offline Points: 839	Post Options Post Reply Quote Liquidfreak Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Apr 12 at 08:42
	No torque wrench and I passed on the loctite option and favoured a copper slip instead. Not too sure about the loctite as there were no signs that it originally had some on.
	2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine

CMP260 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 02 Mar 12 Location: wales Status: Offline Points: 170	Post Options Post Reply Quote CMP260 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Apr 12 at 08:51
	whats copper slip, i never heard of that
	was a 2006 130 shuttle now a 2006 174 multivan

Liquidfreak Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Yardie Joined: 25 Feb 08 Location: Cornwall Status: Offline Points: 839	Post Options Post Reply Quote Liquidfreak Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Apr 12 at 19:20
	It's a great anti-seize product, a mechanics tool as such. Put it on before you add the bolt/nut and you'll most likely be able to get it off again. It is also used on the back of brake pads to stop squeal. How are you getting on with the manifold job?
	2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine

CMP260 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 02 Mar 12 Location: wales Status: Offline Points: 170	Post Options Post Reply Quote CMP260 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Apr 12 at 21:22
	still waiting for the gaskets and nuts to arrive.... just replaced the pads on my passat and theyre squealing, defintley be getting some of that copper slop too. where do you put it, between pad and slave cyl? Also, thought I might mention, the van I bouht has 250k on it, the only reason I bought is was bacause its in such good nick. Its an airport bus thus mainly motorway miles: when took of trubo air hoses and egr, there was not a bit of crap in there. So I suppose if youre not using an engine around town theres no point blocking off egr right?
	was a 2006 130 shuttle now a 2006 174 multivan

Liquidfreak Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Yardie Joined: 25 Feb 08 Location: Cornwall Status: Offline Points: 839	Post Options Post Reply Quote Liquidfreak Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Apr 12 at 07:37
	Copper slip goes between the pad backing and the pistons, be careful not to get it on the pad braking surface otherwise it will no longer do any braking. As for EGR, it is really up to you. I did mine because it sheared off and I didn't want to get a new one. I had already blanked one end off because I was searching for a smoother low end driving experience, and it just makes sense when you read up on it.
	2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine

CMP260 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 02 Mar 12 Location: wales Status: Offline Points: 170	Post Options Post Reply Quote CMP260 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 Apr 12 at 20:59
	ok, finally got the parts from teeside it was £48 not £24.... the partnum for the manifold gasket is 070 253 039D here is how I finally got the exhaust clamp bolts out after grinding and drilling failed: sledgehammer and 17mm socket.. it worked. heres pics http://www.flickr.com/photos/the-paynes/?saved=1
	was a 2006 130 shuttle now a 2006 174 multivan

CMP260 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 02 Mar 12 Location: wales Status: Offline Points: 170	Post Options Post Reply Quote CMP260 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 Apr 12 at 18:20
	ARRRRG manifold went in ok. .... just spent last 5 hours crucified on that fking VW swastica trying to get the fing turbo in. It came out its gotta go in right - wrong! I even took off the turbo vacuum actautor and servo bits for more room. still cant get it in. My fking arms are in bits from all the hose clips in the way. I had to give up before I burned the fcker. I hate it.
	was a 2006 130 shuttle now a 2006 174 multivan

CMP260 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 02 Mar 12 Location: wales Status: Offline Points: 170	Post Options Post Reply Quote CMP260 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 Apr 12 at 18:32
	just saw on another post to remove rear engine mount. maybe try that tomorrow if I can gather enough enthusiasm after todays fiasco.
	was a 2006 130 shuttle now a 2006 174 multivan

Liquidfreak Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Yardie Joined: 25 Feb 08 Location: Cornwall Status: Offline Points: 839	Post Options Post Reply Quote Liquidfreak Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 Apr 12 at 23:36
	Get someone to hold it and twist from above. It does go in! Oh yeah by the way, the fun bit hasn't started yet. Try getting the exhaust back on to the manifold!! Good luck matey.
	2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine

CMP260 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 02 Mar 12 Location: wales Status: Offline Points: 170	Post Options Post Reply Quote CMP260 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 27 Apr 12 at 20:19
	ok, its been about an hour a bolt so far.... finally managed to get turbo on again. liquidfreak, perhaps you could move these hints to the 1st page to save people much time? TO REMOVE TURBO: 1) remove rear engine mount bolt 2) put jack under tranny and jack up so mount is 1-1/2 or 2 inches higher than it was. (don't go too far or youll push engine bits through radiator) 3) now you will be able to easlily wiggle turbo out (from above) towards your right hand side. 4) to replace turbo easily and save much time, remove vacuum acuator - its only 2 little bolts and E clip. Its much easier to put it back on after turbo is in place again than to try to get turbo back in place without removing the vacuum thingy, hope this helps others, it would have saved me many hours of angryness. now, can someone tell me how the clip goes on the top turbo hose? the one thats half metal? ta
	was a 2006 130 shuttle now a 2006 174 multivan