How to: AXD Manifold and Turbo Removal

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   FINISHED Didnt find downpipe to turbo too bad after all the other probs. 

Easiest way to to connect downpipe to turbo was as follows:
1) clean threads on clamp bolt and make sure it screws all the up an down way easily (i used copper grease)
2) secure two botom down pipe bolts by the cat (theres flex pipe at top so its ok to crank them down)
2) put gasket on downpipe side then push both all the way into mating surface on turbo, it will stay in place if you get it right.
3) with the clamp bolt swinging free, open up clamp a bit and push over downpipe (on pipe itself not by turbo)
4) slide it up and over mating surfaces of turbo and downpipe, slide bolt in place and tighten.
5) dont tighten too much or the "U" piece will spread and bolt will pop out and youll have to start again (I did this, used vice grips to squash it smaller again and it worked ok).

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CMP260 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 02 Mar 12 Location: wales Status: Offline Points: 170	Post Options Post Reply Quote CMP260 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Apr 12 at 14:49
	FINISHED Didnt find downpipe to turbo too bad after all the other probs. Easiest way to to connect downpipe to turbo was as follows: 1) clean threads on clamp bolt and make sure it screws all the up an down way easily (i used copper grease) 2) secure two botom down pipe bolts by the cat (theres flex pipe at top so its ok to crank them down) 2) put gasket on downpipe side then push both all the way into mating surface on turbo, it will stay in place if you get it right. 3) with the clamp bolt swinging free, open up clamp a bit and push over downpipe (on pipe itself not by turbo) 4) slide it up and over mating surfaces of turbo and downpipe, slide bolt in place and tighten. 5) dont tighten too much or the "U" piece will spread and bolt will pop out and youll have to start again (I did this, used vice grips to squash it smaller again and it worked ok).
	was a 2006 130 shuttle now a 2006 174 multivan

CMP260 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 02 Mar 12 Location: wales Status: Offline Points: 170	Post Options Post Reply Quote CMP260 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Apr 12 at 14:53
	scared the shit out of me when suddenly started making loud noise on test drive: air pipe to turbo had popped out. I had the clip upside down -its not intuitive, it looks like the little tabs at the end of the clip are supposed to point upwards, they arent....
	was a 2006 130 shuttle now a 2006 174 multivan

Liquidfreak Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Yardie Joined: 25 Feb 08 Location: Cornwall Status: Offline Points: 839	Post Options Post Reply Quote Liquidfreak Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Apr 12 at 16:20
	Well done mate, you have earn't a pint!
	2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine

CMP260 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 02 Mar 12 Location: wales Status: Offline Points: 170	Post Options Post Reply Quote CMP260 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 Jun 12 at 19:56
	hiya mate, its fixed but im still gettin a burnning (plasticky) stink from the air vents -cant see anything melting so Im thinking about building a little air scoop on bonnet to force fresh air in to blower and bypass the slotted vents in front of windscreen. What u think?
	was a 2006 130 shuttle now a 2006 174 multivan

energysolutions Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Vanorak Joined: 02 Dec 08 Location: Earth (For Now) Status: Offline Points: 3684	Post Options Post Reply Quote energysolutions Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 Jun 12 at 20:10
	It takes time for the exhaust fumes to subside after the fault has been fixed (thats assuming it IS fixed 100%) - give it time
	!!Never Eat Yellow Snow!!

CMP260 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 02 Mar 12 Location: wales Status: Offline Points: 170	Post Options Post Reply Quote CMP260 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 Jun 12 at 20:55
	? you mean freash air blower and pipes still caked up with soot? i did soap bubble air pressure test it afer welding manifold so unless it cracked again it sould be ok. I cant feel any puffing with my fingers around where cracks were anyway or around turbo and downpipe,
	was a 2006 130 shuttle now a 2006 174 multivan

tldmobilerepair Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 12 Aug 12 Location: South Wales Status: Offline Points: 1	Post Options Post Reply Quote tldmobilerepair Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 Aug 12 at 20:27
	Just changed my AXD manifold, took around 5.5 / 6 hours start to finish, I do work as a mobile mechanic though and changed have already changed the turbo on it last year. There is no need to disconnect the exhaust, only on the V-Band adaptor on the turbo, I didn't even bother unbolting it on the rubber mounts just down from the cat. Undo the two 13mm headed bolts holding the half shaft bearing to the big cast alloy engine mounting on remove that out of the way(easier to do this with the drivers side wheel off, this then gives you east access to the 3 M12 bolts bolting the turbo to the block. All of the 12mm headed manifold bolts can be accessed from the top of the engine, pref with the water rail removed. Here's a picture of my knackered AXD manifold :) Edited by tldmobilerepair - 12 Aug 12 at 20:34

CMP260 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 02 Mar 12 Location: wales Status: Offline Points: 170	Post Options Post Reply Quote CMP260 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 13 Aug 12 at 00:54
	That's totally awesome contribution dude- I feel like a dickhead for not realising that. when I think about it now the down pipe was swinging in the breeze Cheers
	was a 2006 130 shuttle now a 2006 174 multivan

julls Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 02 Oct 12 Location: yeovil Status: Offline Points: 3	Post Options Post Reply Quote julls Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 Nov 12 at 18:16
	i manage to get the turbo out easier by undoing the engine mountain bolt where the air filter box sat and jacking the engine back turbo just fell out. hope this helps
	welsh and proud.

Doug Nel Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 18 Nov 09 Location: Cape Town SA Status: Offline Points: 9	Post Options Post Reply Quote Doug Nel Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Jan 13 at 15:56
	Hello Folks Hope you can help. I started this process about an hour ago. After removing the air intake and all other pipes, the 1st nut I try to remove is the top manifold nut close to the air intake. Without much force the stud has come out. Since I am new to VW working please can you give me some advice. 1. How do I go about getting this repaired. Not sure what a complete stud looks like? 2. Do I continue to remove the turbo and manifold? BTW I am working on a 2004 T5 Transporter 128Kw AXE engine

bananaman Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Yardie Joined: 20 Jun 11 Location: Castleford Status: Offline Points: 488	Post Options Post Reply Quote bananaman Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Jan 13 at 21:19
	A complete stud has thread at both ends. Looks like yours has sheared leaving one end in the engine block. This is usually caused by the heat from the manifold making the steel stud go brittle, so when you try to remove it-it can snap very easily. With regards to removal of the remaining part you could try to drill it and insert a stud remover-BUT BE WARNED THIS CAN END IN DISASTER IF YOU DONT DRILL DEAD STRAIGHT DOWN THE MIDDLE OF THE STUD. If theres any of the stud pretruding out of the block you could always try screwing a nut onto it and filling the middle of the nut with weld and thn winding it out. Either way it aint going to be easy. Good luck!
	T5 T32 SWB Kombi 130ps

Doug Nel Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 18 Nov 09 Location: Cape Town SA Status: Offline Points: 9	Post Options Post Reply Quote Doug Nel Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 Jan 13 at 06:56
	Update: I had the studs removed professionally after I had taken out the exhaust manifold. After 260 000 km's, not a crack, except it was twisted because of the upper and lower studs missing at the airbox sied. Bought a new manifold, replaced the studs and put it all back together again. All working fine, and I have my power back again.

dokerty Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 11 Jan 10 Status: Offline Points: 6	Post Options Post Reply Quote dokerty Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 27 May 13 at 09:20
	Thanks to all the contributors on this thread. Made my life a little easier. Just finished this job. Bit of an adventure. Probably the trickiest in a while. There isn't much room for maneuver. The light gauge bellows on the turbo flange was cracked and separated from the manifold. Un-weldable. Got a part from the breakers when it arrived bellows good but it needed to be welded on the original welds, not a complete disaster got it welded successfully. I had to change the thermostat also so some of the same parts needed to be removed. the van has 4 wheel drive so extra shaft and gearbox parts in the way. I found I could not remove the turbo altogether so left it in the space and moved the manifold around it loose. Getting back in the manifold was testing, for some time i thought i wouldn't happen. took it all the way back and next time it slipped in. I didn't remove mountings and my job followed the first walk through here fairly closely. Only thing I'd add is take out the air box its easy and gives more light space and access. And I don't know how the guys on here attempted it without a lift. I don't think i would have attempted it without using a lift. I will answer any questions if i can. Thanks again.

Liquidfreak Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Yardie Joined: 25 Feb 08 Location: Cornwall Status: Offline Points: 839	Post Options Post Reply Quote Liquidfreak Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Jun 13 at 23:04
	Well done mate! Without a lift it is a horrible job. As is the fact that I always seemed to end up doing it outside, during the winter. Hopefully I won't have to do it again for a while!
	2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine

CMP260 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 02 Mar 12 Location: wales Status: Offline Points: 170	Post Options Post Reply Quote CMP260 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 05 Jun 13 at 07:33
	Lucky you! I would love to have had access to a lift!! It was a fkin bitch without. I definitely dont wanna do it again! I gotta say, other than the manifold problem, I love these engines -in fact I'd go as far as to say they are my favourite VW engine ever. Solid as the proverbial brick shthouse, just a big lump pf metal, no belts or chains to break. 250k miles, no major work on it and still pulling strong.
	was a 2006 130 shuttle now a 2006 174 multivan

piluf Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 04 Aug 14 Location: italy Status: Offline Points: 1	Post Options Post Reply Quote piluf Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Aug 14 at 12:10
	Hi many thanks for your guide. I did the same work on my Touareg R5 in about 8 hours It was really a ball ache....... MANY THANKS from Italy

CMP260 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 02 Mar 12 Location: wales Status: Offline Points: 170	Post Options Post Reply Quote CMP260 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 Oct 14 at 14:55
	does the BPC motor have a redesigned exhaust manifold to AXE? my new bus is late 2006 with DPF and useless watercooled EGR. I was looking for leaks since I was coughing when driving. From what I can see under the stainless coolant dildo thing, the manifold looks like its cast metal rather than pressed? I didnt see any obvious soot but the turbo variable vane rod does have soot on it. any ideas? is this a proper leak? turbo going tits up? see arrows below for soot covered rod., funny though the cotter pin has no soot...... im thinking leaky intake system might also cause coughing if egr is totally caked and sooty? the intake manifold didnt have a proper gasket only red silicone make-a-gasket gunk
	was a 2006 130 shuttle now a 2006 174 multivan

CMP260 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 02 Mar 12 Location: wales Status: Offline Points: 170	Post Options Post Reply Quote CMP260 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 09 Nov 14 at 22:38
	Anyone got any advice on doing this job with the BPC motor? -basically the AXD motor with an added EGR water cooler and turbo exhausting directly into DPF -thus no bendable down pipe? does it mean I have to remove entire exhaust -again....
	was a 2006 130 shuttle now a 2006 174 multivan

Fcc5206 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 30 Jul 17 Location: Uk Status: Offline Points: 1	Post Options Post Reply Quote Fcc5206 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 Jul 17 at 11:43
	Yep just completed a pig of a job!!

Gabe Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 02 Sep 18 Status: Offline Points: 2	Post Options Post Reply Quote Gabe Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 02 Sep 18 at 09:58
	Hi Guys, I truly did not believe that it would be that hard. This manual looks so simple, so I ordered a new turbo, manifold and all gaskets and bolds/ nuts (was only 350AUD all together incl shipping). The manifold is iron cast. Looks way better than the pressed iron! I have to mention that I have a AXE engine, 4motion and RHD. I think those three thinks make it way harder!!! The guide only works partial. Same for the elsawin manual (i speak german which not helps). I had to undo the engine mounts to drop the engine. I also removed the brake booster which was probably a bad idea. Furthermore the manifold did not fit at all. I had to angle grind a lot on turbo and manifold. EGR pipe does not fit so I blanked it for now. And heap more of custom steps. Removing the downpipe was a 5min job and if you struggle with it don't think about continuing. I think it ia only so hard because my brake booster is on the right side and that 4motion drive drain makes everything very tied. Normal car should be fine. Alright I paid less than 400$ incl. tools and whatever you need. But it was two days work for two people. Without help I would never be able to do it. I think I would never do it again. Better of paying someone doing this job. Or plan removing engine and doing it outside of the car. That's probably faster. Just for people who think of doing it ;)