my tdi conversion |
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busbuddy
Vanorak Joined: 22 Jul 06 Location: Leicester Status: Offline Points: 2068 |
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Posted: 03 Jun 10 at 09:05 |
ok this is just about all tidied up and done now so i thought I would show the pics just in case it helped others
first I had to get myself a decent 1z tdi car, in my case a seat toledo tdi sxe of 1995 (before you all go out and buy one please read my warning at the end)
which was then stripped to this
a stiff drink then tackle this
which when removed and tidied up a bit looks like this
please note the seat has a much longer loom than the golf/passat, dunno why but it does which for me was very lucky as it was going in a karmann
removed onto pallet with gearbox still attached to make timing belt change easier and so I could lock it at tdc ready to be fitted
changed the 1z thermostat housing for a jx one, I had some issues with the housing not sealing as the mounting was not quite identical to the 1z one just a moulding issue but glad i checked before continuing, also replaced the breather as they are notorious for cracking, new one just not fitted yet
remember to swop the oil pump to the jx one Edited by busbuddy - 03 Jun 10 at 10:42 |
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busbuddy
Vanorak Joined: 22 Jul 06 Location: Leicester Status: Offline Points: 2068 |
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jx sump fitted and all 1z ancilliaries put back on and it starts to look reasonably like the old jx I took out, the engine mount bolt holes need to be clleaned out as they aint used on the donor car
change the water pump pulley so i can use the ribbed belt
because mines a karmann I have no rear door to put an engine hoist through so 2 jacks underneath, a support bar on top and lots of jumping in and out of the van needed to get it into position
and its in, note original power steering still attached sitting on battery tray
at this point the engine was still locked at tdc so i could mark the flywheel with its new tdc point for the T3 gearbox, the note on the pump is so I dont forget to unlock it
as I was on a budget I couldnt afford to buy an engine mount so
crap tacking but it was with the wrong hand and I had my eyes shut, better once I got turned up the power
still not pretty but its definitely strong enough
get the tdi turbo oil pipe end and the jx sump end then just make the pipe inbetween, sorted
and the engine hangs by itself, note all work done on gravel drive
Edited by busbuddy - 03 Jun 10 at 10:28 |
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busbuddy
Vanorak Joined: 22 Jul 06 Location: Leicester Status: Offline Points: 2068 |
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start with 2 nissan 200sx intercoolers (remember I'm fitting in a karmann)
bit of cleaning and cutting
welding
and mount a fan
make a hole in a spare space and fit
the 1z manifold points the wrong way
so chop it off clean it up and reweld
and I blocked off the egr and threw that away
thats better
intercooler has this scoop as well
I'm lucky to have a blank panel where the T3 lights were so put it to good use
and with room behind the karmann bumper, chavvier than a chavvy thing
starting to plumb in nicely, the jx ps pump has now gone and new pipes fitted to the 1z pump,
the blue bit top left is a catch tank connected to the breather pipe as I dont like feeding dirty air into the inlet pipes no matter what engine I'm working on
and the bud bottle just happens to be the right size for mocking up
finish off the pipework, or so I thought
then remember I need an air temp sender in there
Edited by busbuddy - 03 Jun 10 at 10:46 |
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busbuddy
Vanorak Joined: 22 Jul 06 Location: Leicester Status: Offline Points: 2068 |
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remove the throttle cable and fit the fly by wire unit
fit the immobiliser ring onto the ignition, you need to trim the plastic column surround
use the hole vacated by the cold start cable to route immobiliser wires out of cab area
make a hole in rear floor to allow loom in and keep ecu in warm/dry, now is the point where I'm lucky I had long loom as this side of my van is fairly full so needed to route a bit further away
mount the n75, poxy little thing but so important
rough connections just to get it started, the main round wiring connector on the engine was very difficult to fully engage which caused a few non starts but all sorted now
I now needed to sort the key, T3 on the left seat on the right.....hmmmmmm
so one of these off ebay
a new blade to suit it and to suit a T3 ignition from the states
pull the chip out the old seat key and put in new one and tadaaaaa, yes I know really sad
and whilst I'm admitting to being sad, on a snowy day I took this
bit of cutting,sanding,spraying,fiddling and
its the little bits that help keep you sane whilst the conversion drags on
ecu fitted nice and snug
breather from catch tank
and all pretty much done
Edited by busbuddy - 03 Jun 10 at 10:35 |
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busbuddy
Vanorak Joined: 22 Jul 06 Location: Leicester Status: Offline Points: 2068 |
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after all this the project started to go pear shaped, when driving it was obviously in limp mode with no boost whatsoever and it had the fault code 01242 final stage output
over 4 months, yes FOUR months I,
exhausted the internet for clues on 01242, rewired it twice, sent the ecu away to be tested, swapped the maf/air temp sender/n75, tested the ecu in another car, tested the turbo, I even got to the point where I was thinking maybe the pump was faulty but when i spoke to my local diesel specialist he said 'not a chance' and even said if it ended up being the pump he would give me a free one, thats how certain he was so that was good enough for me.
it was only by chance that a fellow tdi installer happened to replace his vw ecu with a seat one to try and locate a problem he had that my issue was resolved, his engine instantly went into limp mode with exactly the same fault as mine.
i purchased an ahu ecu/key/immobiliser from a golf and fitted it on mine and fault gone, van drives perfect
There is something in the seat ecu that does not like the trimmed down wiring that is used when fitting in a T3, the vw one is quite happy and shows no faults.
So the WARNING is by all means use the 1z out of a seat but avoid using the seat ecu
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busbuddy
Vanorak Joined: 22 Jul 06 Location: Leicester Status: Offline Points: 2068 |
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pics of bits that I have forgot will be added when I remember to take them
COST !!!!
most of the work was done by myself on a gravel drive and during the winter it was only the odd day a week, I'm lucky that I can weld and managed to blag pipes and other bits off my customers so that dramatically reduced my outlay. The speed of the work was also hampered by me being broke so I sometimes had to wait a few weeks to save up and buy something thus halting the work.
even with the cost of the donor, a full version of vagcom and most importantly missing a full year of shows I have only just hit £1000 all in for the conversion
to anyone who is thinking of doing it, go for it BUT
you will do some things twice coz your first attempt was crap or just plain wrong, there is a wealth of info and helpful people on here and other forums who will offer guidance to the naive and unknowledgeable mechanic (I'm good with supercharged v8s but knew nothing of diesels)
always replace stuff before you fit the engine, timing belt etc no matter how skint you are coz the thought of pulling it all out again to do stuff like that aint funny
and dont lose faith in the transplant, you will conquer all in the end Edited by busbuddy - 03 Jun 10 at 10:24 |
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T3ADICT
Vanorak Joined: 21 Jul 05 Location: LeightonBuzzard Status: Offline Points: 4215 |
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very nice... good work..
how is the drive now? did you change the gearbox or was that not needed because of the size of the karmann? ie weight/drag. etc.
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WHY T3's.... because they are just so adictive, and having one just aint enough
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busbuddy
Vanorak Joined: 22 Jul 06 Location: Leicester Status: Offline Points: 2068 |
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goes great, going away for first weekend tomorrow
not changed gearbox, I left it as is for now but I have oversized tyres on and can fit bigger ones that drop the gearing way more than the long 5th gear available from germany
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shrek
Groupie Joined: 08 Feb 09 Location: salisbury Status: Offline Points: 176 |
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looks reel nice job well done there just got mine started today withh all the loom on the bed and moll gripps holding earths and lives together neet job you have done with loom i noticed you had the immobilizer up front i was toying with the idear of just having live going to the power part of the loom and run it off a relay???? good idear or not not sure yet??
also your throttle t,p,s under the floor is that a good place cus of water?? or have you put splash gard there let us know how you get on i might do that get rid of that big cabble feeling? Hope ya have good weekend away big smile's
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IF ONLY IT WOULD GO RIGHT EVERY TIME ???
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diesel_dubs
Groupie Joined: 04 Aug 11 Location: Bath Status: Offline Points: 61 |
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hi where did you get thekey blank, thanks fred.
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syncroandy
Yardie Joined: 18 May 05 Location: North Lancs. UK Status: Offline Points: 630 |
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x2 ...
Missed this thread 1st. time, deffo worth a bump ! Edit: Key blade Edited by syncroandy - 21 Mar 12 at 07:39 |
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