Oil: 506.01 v 507.00 once and for all... I hope! |
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Happy Yellow
Yardie Joined: 15 Feb 07 Location: Latvia Status: Offline Points: 263 |
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Posted: 08 Dec 09 at 15:03 |
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Before deciding if I was prepared to use VW 507 00 oil in my AXE (2.5 TDi 174 PS) engined VW T5, I thought it would be a good idea to conduct a little light research. However, my first enquiries revealed that the front people (who deal with customer) in the oil industry are just as confused about oil specs as we, the customers are. Everyone's answers were different: VW UK, VW Germany, Castrol, Statoil, Neste etc. etc. So I had to dig further in order to find the truth. Eventually I discovered the truth:
VW 507 00 spec oil is as good, or better than VW 506 01 in every respect. The proof follows: Item 1: The company who supply the oil companies with the ingredience that they need to concoct oil to manufacturers' spec, Lubrizol, provide this comparison chart. The two specs, 506 00 and 507 00 are overlaid on the diagram, and it clearly shows that both specs of oil have the same wear resistance (blue is 507 00, brown/yellow is 506.01). Item 2: I have come across documents published by Volkswagen AG in Germany that set out all the criteria that the oil companies use in order to produce specific oils for VW. First: Anti-Wear Behaviour (Table 4) for oil 506 01: Second: Anti-Wear Behaviour (paragraph 6.1 and Table 4) for oil 507 00: As you can see, the Anti-Wear requirements for VW 506 01 and VW 507 00 are exactly the same. If anyone has any evidence to the contrary, I would very much like to see it. Cheers, Rupert Edited by Happy Yellow - 08 Dec 09 at 15:04 |
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2005 Sari Yellow Caravelle 174/AXE 200k miles
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CLONKY
Yardie Joined: 23 Jan 06 Status: Offline Points: 828 |
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That is some comprehensive research and does prove that 507.00 is superior.
I'll take the risk of being ridiculed for my simplistic suggestion,but here goes-
It could be that 507.00 is TOO good for the early 5 cyl engines. I had an early 174 and it suffered with high oil consumption. The dealer reckoned this was common and that due to the combination of a special cylinder bore coating and synthetic oil, bedding in of the bores was a long process (very long in my case 'cos it never stopped using the stuff...)
My guess is that this was addressed about the same time as DPF's were introduced along with the new oil,and vw specified 506.01 only for the earlier engines as 507.00 could prolong the bedding in period even further.
Only a guess,but i'm sure VW have done it for a reason.
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Liquidfreak
Yardie Joined: 25 Feb 08 Location: Cornwall Status: Offline Points: 839 |
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I wonder if it is more of a fact that cams and followers are just crap quality - i.e. not properly heat treated? would be interesting to find out who has actually replaced both the cams and followers and at what mileage. I'll go first with mine at 137,000 miles
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2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine
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T5 TDI
Vanorak Joined: 05 Nov 05 Status: Offline Points: 3687 |
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40,00 miles roughly and two years.
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2004 2.5 174
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jan
Groupie Joined: 04 Aug 08 Location: Oldham, Manches Status: Offline Points: 71 |
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My 08 T5 uses 507.00, in the first 1000 mile it used half a litre and not a drop since now at over 60K miles.
Now my brothers T5 auto, 05 plate uses 506 01 it burns about 750ml between services he has had no problems with any cams or engine parts he's on 240k miles.
So im hoping mine will be as good
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2008 T5 2.5 130 lwb Taxi
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Vdub_heaven
Yardie Joined: 26 Feb 09 Location: north wales Status: Offline Points: 344 |
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at last!!!! some bloody good reasoning for the old oil debate!!!
nice one and thanks!!!
still fecking expensive though!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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VW Galaxy 130 in black
220k t4 800 special just died!!RIP Proud owner of an 05 T30 lwb 130 in a whiter shade of grey!! |
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Ex-car bloke
Vanorak Joined: 17 Jan 06 Location: Scotland Status: Offline Points: 1612 |
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Nice work, Happy Yelllow!
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ECB 2006 SWB 174 window van
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Happy Yellow
Yardie Joined: 15 Feb 07 Location: Latvia Status: Offline Points: 263 |
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It's fine to put forward suggestions, especially now that we have a proper document to take facts from. And simplistic is always a good way to start. To address your points: a) 507 00 is no better that 506 01 regarding wear. It's the same. b) My AXE drinks oil. It did while using 506 01, and still does with 507 00. I know someone with a T5 130 and his drank oil until 85k miles. Mine has 71k so far. c) High oil consumption could be down to too slipperary first fill oil. Yamaha had problems with their top sports bike engines (1000 cc R1s) drinking too much oil. It was found that the factory filled synthetic oil was too good (slipperary) to enable proper bedding in (running in). Now Yamaha fill with non-synthetic (or maybe semi-synthetic) at the factory. Then after the first service (1000 km) synthetic should be used. Yamaha, Triumph and KTM all state that oil consumption up to 1 lt per 1000 km is acceptable! It's actually (motorcycle) industry standard, so there's no point in complaining unless you're using more that a litre per 1000 km. Edited by Happy Yellow - 10 Dec 09 at 11:44 |
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2005 Sari Yellow Caravelle 174/AXE 200k miles
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Happy Yellow
Yardie Joined: 15 Feb 07 Location: Latvia Status: Offline Points: 263 |
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Err... yes I expect so! But what reason? A cover-up maybe? I would like an explanation with proof. It's actually VW and Castrol who say not to use 507 00 in AXE motors. Statoil (the Norwegian state oil company) and others say it's fine to use 507 00 in the AXE motor. And by spec. according to VW's own documentation, it's also OK. Edited by Happy Yellow - 10 Dec 09 at 12:03 |
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2005 Sari Yellow Caravelle 174/AXE 200k miles
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Happy Yellow
Yardie Joined: 15 Feb 07 Location: Latvia Status: Offline Points: 263 |
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Could be. I had to replace one out of four camshafts in my motorcycle engine. I used the correct oil and it was run-in properly. Whilst checking the valve clearances at 15k miles I found that one of the camshafts was pitted at the points on both of the two lobes. The other three camshafts were fine, and still were at 22k miles. In this case it was almost certainly down to poor production of the camshaft. A pitted (or otherwise faulty) camshaft lobe will damage a good follower, so if both are showing signs of wear, it may only be the camshaft that was at fault. |
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2005 Sari Yellow Caravelle 174/AXE 200k miles
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Happy Yellow
Yardie Joined: 15 Feb 07 Location: Latvia Status: Offline Points: 263 |
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Search around and you can get it for normal money. I buy in 10 litre cans for about euro 75. But I've seen it in Austria for euro 20 per litre! At a UK BMW garage the Castrol stuff is GBP 16 per litre! Seems like they charge what they like! But the filter is cheaper than the old canister-type! |
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2005 Sari Yellow Caravelle 174/AXE 200k miles
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The Loon
Yardie Joined: 06 Feb 08 Location: Skid Row Status: Offline Points: 912 |
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Cheapest place I've found for oil is TPS.
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Justified Ancient of Mu Mu.
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Vdub_heaven
Yardie Joined: 26 Feb 09 Location: north wales Status: Offline Points: 344 |
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just paid £20 for 2 litres!!
thats still fecking expensive!!!!
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VW Galaxy 130 in black
220k t4 800 special just died!!RIP Proud owner of an 05 T30 lwb 130 in a whiter shade of grey!! |
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Onefut
Yardie I like pink Joined: 14 Jan 08 Location: North Devon Status: Offline Points: 994 |
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heres one for you all
i've got a volvo S80 2.4 as a winter drive while my bike is off the road due to winter weather now my bike is about due a service soon and the volvo and the T5 need one now What I was wondering is. If there is an oil out there that will do for all 3? Im sure it'd be a lot cheaper to buy a 25ltr drum than individual 4ltr containers for them all I know immediate thoughts are going to be "no" especially as one is a diesel and the other 2 are pertol BUT is there really that much difference between all the different brand synthetic oils? or are we just being told they are different by folk who, as has been said ,are just as confused as us the consumer im thinking the same on th etransmission fluid to as the volvo and the T5 are both auto's Volvo is dextron III not sure wot the T5 is I canny remember |
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God whispers in our soul & speaks to our heart. When we don't have time to listen, He has to throw a brick.
It's our choice: Listen to the whisper or wait for the brick! 05 Shuttle SE 174 Auto LWB |
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gregozedobe
Vanorak Joined: 22 Dec 06 Location: Canberra, Oz Status: Offline Points: -998266 |
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If VW 504/507 oil is OK for the Vovo and the bike then yes, otherwise no.
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Happy Yellow
Yardie Joined: 15 Feb 07 Location: Latvia Status: Offline Points: 263 |
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What bike have you got?
If you have a wet clutch, you should use oil that's OK for that (JASO MA spec.). Car oil used to be OK for motorcycles with wet clutches until CD spec. CD means Compression ignition, sequence D. To get CD spec. an additive was included that was too slippery for wet clutches. NB: C is a diesel spec. (Compression ignition), but any car oil that's CD or beyond (CF, for example) has that stuff that's too slippery for wet clutches.
Having said that, I use car oil with CF/S? in my old (wet clutch) bike. But not in my lovely KTM that has lots of power and a small clutch. I don't want to risk getting clutch-slip.
Re the T5 and the Volvo
According to VW's documentation, VW 507 00 oil must meet the ACEA Oil Sequence A3/B4-04. If Volvo say that A3/B4 or an earlier spec. is OK, then you can use VW 507 00, but it's expensive oil to use when you don't have to.
For the Volvo I would look for an oil marked SF or higher (SH for example). The further up the alphabet the second letter is (after the S) the higher (better) the spec. Brand of oil is not important, so I would look for the best spec. at the lowest price.
PS in my AXE T5's hand book it says I must use 506 01 for both mileage and flexible service regimes. I think I remember reading that it was a misprint, and I can use a lesser oil if service is dictated by mileage. Is this true? What oil can I use for mileage service?
Cheers, Rupert
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2005 Sari Yellow Caravelle 174/AXE 200k miles
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Onefut
Yardie I like pink Joined: 14 Jan 08 Location: North Devon Status: Offline Points: 994 |
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ah! forgot about the wet clutch bit, i remember as soon as i read your post, it was hidden in the recess' of my cranium . My bikes Triumph Sprint 955i 2000 model, i love it my volvo is supposed to be fully synth but im puttin in semi as its needs a change an i cant afford the good stuff at the mo, same with the trans mission
i figure good oil of a slightly lesser quality is better than old black shitty oil any day
I do wonder tho if all these oil additives are just to reduce wear on poorer quality materials, they may be machined to better tolerances inside but are todays engines made with softer metals? or any better metals than in older cars that used straight mineral oil.
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God whispers in our soul & speaks to our heart. When we don't have time to listen, He has to throw a brick.
It's our choice: Listen to the whisper or wait for the brick! 05 Shuttle SE 174 Auto LWB |
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Happy Yellow
Yardie Joined: 15 Feb 07 Location: Latvia Status: Offline Points: 263 |
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It's fine to use a lesser oil, but it needs to be changed more frequently. If your Volvo is a winter hack, then maybe it would make better sense to use a lesser oil, as if you are doing less miles per year you may need to change the oil because it's old in time (rather than miles).
How about this? Change your lovely VW van's oil a little early each time and then use that oil in the Volvo. You use Long Life oil in your van (I think). My LL oil lasted 22k miles before the computer said change it. So drain it out at 15k miles and use it in the Volvo for 5k or so?
Modern engines last very well. Change the oil when you should, and 200 - 400k miles is quite possible without significant bore, piston, piston-ring, cramshaft, big-end etc etc wear. It's more likely that an engine will die because a part has failed (normally due to lack of maintenance) - cam belts for example. 30 years ago 100k miles was a lot. It's not now. Modern oils do a better job for a much longer period of time (more miles). For example: VW T4 TDi 102 hp needed oil changing every 15k km (9,320 miles). Today's T5s can run for 22k+ miles before the oil needs changing.
Modern engines last longer and need less maintenance, but all the time the manufacturers are trying to make components lighter and cheaper, so they are facing greater challenges as well. VW and Yamaha are doing a great job.
You could buy best quality fully synthetic oil for your motorcycle from Hein Gericke for £20 per 4 litres (Motorex, same grade, same quality will be nearer £40).
For your Volvo maybe Halfords' own brand may be the way to go. Or oil from a French supermarket.
I like orange... and yellow
Edited by Happy Yellow - 18 Dec 09 at 12:44 |
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2005 Sari Yellow Caravelle 174/AXE 200k miles
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Onefut
Yardie I like pink Joined: 14 Jan 08 Location: North Devon Status: Offline Points: 994 |
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i got loads of old oil here from previous oil changes on bikes an the T5
if i had a centrifugal pump i'd clean it an use it in the volvo the T5 is on 10k service intervals on long life oil but i change it around 12-15k as its the same oil as the longer "long life interval" |
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God whispers in our soul & speaks to our heart. When we don't have time to listen, He has to throw a brick.
It's our choice: Listen to the whisper or wait for the brick! 05 Shuttle SE 174 Auto LWB |
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Happy Yellow
Yardie Joined: 15 Feb 07 Location: Latvia Status: Offline Points: 263 |
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You must hate your Volvo! As oil is used, the Viscosity Index Improvers (VIIs) get chopped up and the oil reverts to its base grade. So if it starts out as 5W-30, it'll be simply 5W when used fully. How about this to use up your old oil: When in Turkey a few years ago I saw this home-made oil-burning stove. Used engine oil was stored in the 'antifiriz' can, and drips were regulated using the small tap. Combustion air was regulated using the device on the right. It burnt surprisingly cleanly, and was lovely and warm. Ideal for a workshop. |
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2005 Sari Yellow Caravelle 174/AXE 200k miles
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