Welding Projects |
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AndyT
Moderator Group Joined: 16 May 08 Location: Ammanford Status: Offline Points: 2274 |
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If its a SIP could be the same as mine. If it is can take gas as well, never used gas cos my dog ate the pipe. Can't think why she was nick-named Puppychoo!!.
P.S. I thing rockradio is London ish according to the map, don't know if you get up that way. Fair price either way, someone will buy it for sure. |
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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k
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mikebdomain
Groupie Joined: 16 Sep 08 Location: Bournemouth Status: Offline Points: 223 |
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Just had a glance at it through the rest of the junk in my shed it has got a thin pipe for the small gas bottles, so I presume it could take gas as well - and it's yellow, that's all I can tell at the moment
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1995 LT35 2.4 Diesel
Camper conversion |
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madra
Limited Access Lorem ipsum Joined: 25 Jan 09 Location: bollox Status: Offline Points: 957 |
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nice work! i've got a similar job to do myself on mine - floor rusted through just inside the wheel arches on both sides. how did you go about getting the edges of your welded in panels to match up with the edges of the hole you cut out - given that the floor panels are kind of corrugated? BTW - does anyone know the purpose of that sort of tubular A-shaped frame against the wall of the van [just above the wheel arch in the bottom pic above]? it's only present on one side of the van and sits about an inch proud of the rest of the interior framework/ribbing. i'm just wondering what to do about it when the time comes to board out my van, as it'll make things a bit awkward. is it doing anything structural? - i presume so, but i cannae see what Edited by madra - 15 Feb 09 at 15:22 |
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mike38
Yardie Joined: 12 Jul 04 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 609 |
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I think its where the spare wheel normally sits?
Mike |
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mikebdomain
Groupie Joined: 16 Sep 08 Location: Bournemouth Status: Offline Points: 223 |
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Hi Madra
Sorry for taking so long to get back to you... I have been working every spare minute I have on the inside of the van ready for this years run to the sun... (I hope)
I cut out the complete section to the next flat piece then laid the panel over the top with about and 1 inch to spare then welded both sides top and bottom. Getting around the wheel are was a real pain and took a lot of patience...
Watch out when you cut out the panel as the diesel breather pipe runs along that side (the side shown in the pics above) and when cutting the pice out remember that you have the member supports underneath the floor, so careful you don't go too deep.
The tubular fram is for the spare tyre, I have cut mine out as I am going to put my spare underneath the van
The tubular
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1995 LT35 2.4 Diesel
Camper conversion |
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madra
Limited Access Lorem ipsum Joined: 25 Jan 09 Location: bollox Status: Offline Points: 957 |
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cheers. i havenae started welding mine yet. still pissing about with sorting out the gearlinkage. but i've since found that i've got some more rotted flooring, for a few feet right along the edge where it joins the wall. so that's probably going to mean patching it with some L-sectioned steel
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mikebdomain
Groupie Joined: 16 Sep 08 Location: Bournemouth Status: Offline Points: 223 |
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Same as mine was - I just bent the sheet to fit
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1995 LT35 2.4 Diesel
Camper conversion |
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Swidda
Groupie Joined: 09 Sep 08 Location: Ireland Status: Offline Points: 52 |
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Hi lads, Interesting thread, I'll be starting work on mine pretty soon, It's exceptionally sound considering its 30 years old and the only rot is in the steps at the bottom of the doors on the inside on both the driver and passenger side, and they are only rotten on the surface if the step and not up the wheel arches, has anyone replaced these and are there replacement panels available? Any tips would be appreciated.....
Cheers
Steve
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AndyT
Moderator Group Joined: 16 May 08 Location: Ammanford Status: Offline Points: 2274 |
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Check out my post in useful links for panels they may be able to help, although I don't think I'd bother if its not visible from the outside.
My old bus has had the drivers side repaired but passenger is still solid. |
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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k
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Swidda
Groupie Joined: 09 Sep 08 Location: Ireland Status: Offline Points: 52 |
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Your probably right, my main concern is to stop it spreading, I may just grind the rust off, red oxide it and cut some rifled aluminum plates for the step
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AndyT
Moderator Group Joined: 16 May 08 Location: Ammanford Status: Offline Points: 2274 |
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Best stuff I know for rust is Dinitrol, I've used it for years and have never had rust come back.
It turns rust into an inert compound so you can grind,weld etc once its treated. Must be kept dry for 24 hours to cure which is no problem since you are working inside. |
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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k
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Swidda
Groupie Joined: 09 Sep 08 Location: Ireland Status: Offline Points: 52 |
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Cheers! I'll keep an eye out for that one...
Steve.
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Jam-Man
Yardie Joined: 19 Aug 09 Location: Wales Status: Offline Points: 289 |
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Repair panels certainly were available a few years ago as I bought the lower panels including steps all the way round for my 79 van. They were made by Hadrian and I got them from my local trade parts supplier. Don't know if they are still available though.
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funky_monkey
Groupie Joined: 29 Jul 09 Location: River Ouse Status: Offline Points: 61 |
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great posts guys, I`m buying a welder this week, I need to replace wish bone bushes and the pins need welding back after. I was goin to seal the under side too but I supose it`s best to wait to summer for it to be dry. |
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AndyT
Moderator Group Joined: 16 May 08 Location: Ammanford Status: Offline Points: 2274 |
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Been working on my T3 today, found a lovely patch of filler about an inch thick.
Not hiding anything of course. No rust treatment, some **** had just filled over it. So it had to go!!. Made a new plate. Welded it in. Tried out gas with my Mig for the first time in anger, and its not bad once you get the flow right. Too high and it blows the weld through, too low and it spits like a cat with its tail caught in the vac. Found a formula on another forum:- wire diameter * 10 + 2 and tried it. 0.6mm * 10 + 2 = 8 for the gas flow and it works. Quick sqeeze on the trigger even puts fires out too!!. Gonna get the air chisel on the rest of the filler on the wheel arch tomorrow and see what's left, before I tidy up the bottom part of the welding. A new panel is a last resort, cos I got some from Schofields and Justkampers with the T3 when I bought it and I'm not happy with the quality. |
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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k
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mat_the_cat
Vanorak Joined: 06 May 09 Location: North Wales Status: Offline Points: 1862 |
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I notice you're using galvanised sheet (as I do too). Just be careful of the fumes if you are in an enclosed area as they are poisonous. I've felt quite rough after long periods of time welding - didn't know what it was at the time until someone pointed out to me afterwards.
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Mid engined, 6 cylinder, turbocharged 2 seater - it can only be a VW LT!
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AndyT
Moderator Group Joined: 16 May 08 Location: Ammanford Status: Offline Points: 2274 |
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Hi Folks,
Bought a new widget from Frost a couple of months ago and have been trying it out since. Basically you drill a 3.2mm hole through both repair sections as if you were pop riveting and then push the widget through the hole and that's it. Works a treat when you are trying to fabricate a new section and might need to remove it several times. Can't recommend it enough but that's just my opinion, when welding in awkward places and you need an extra hand!!. In this case the one clip held the whole panel in place (18psi clamp) whilst I welded it. Loads of gimmicks out there but this one does work, waiting to see if I'm as lucky with the spot weld attachment for my arc welder. Logic says not but I could be surprised. Either way the arc welder will pay for itself making this jig... Sort of a metal workmate, but if you sandwich a bit of pipe etc it allows you to make curved panels etc. Needs 3 m of angle iron, which costs new about £18. Making one as soon as I get 4 wheels on my wagon. |
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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k
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marsh365
Newbie Joined: 04 Jun 11 Location: rutland Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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Hi all, does anyone have pix of inner sill area as mine are long gone?
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caveman_dick
Groupie Joined: 02 Jun 08 Status: Offline Points: 155 |
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Has anyone done the footwells on their van? Mine have just failed my MOT and was wondering whether to give it a go myself. Good thing with them is they are out of sight so if I screw up the seams it don't matter!
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PhilJ
Groupie Joined: 05 Sep 11 Location: Eastbourne Status: Offline Points: 163 |
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Recently the ramp hinges broke on a Mercedes Sprinter horsebox we've got. I borrowed a gas-less MIG to make up the new ones.
It was AWSOME! It uses special wire which releases the gas at the point of the weld - What I was welding to was crap, corroded steel which wasn't cleaned up that well and it was windy but this thing wasn't bothered at all. You can use it with a gas bottle and normal wire too but the gas-less wire was great and I would highly recommend it. Want one! Just need to justify it to the missus, unfortunately she doesn't need any welding done in the forseeable future so have no excuse. A couple of pics - you can see my LT in the back! |
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Phil J - VW LT 35 2.4 D 1989 Camper
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