Welding |
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thal
Yardie Joined: 29 Apr 08 Location: Bolton Status: Offline Points: 514 |
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Screwfix are good for gasless wire If you do gasless you know different wire can give vastly different results the wire I get from screwfix Is very good. Nice even welds with little spatter and easy to grind back for a good finnish on thin metal.
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mikebdomain
Groupie Joined: 16 Sep 08 Location: Bournemouth Status: Offline Points: 223 |
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I found wire brush fitments for the grinder do the job brilliantly - don't waste your money on the cheap one though they last about five minutes and are a real false economy. I use the twisted wire type and one lasted my whole last project. |
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1995 LT35 2.4 Diesel
Camper conversion |
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AndyT
Moderator Group Joined: 16 May 08 Location: Ammanford Status: Offline Points: 2274 |
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Sounds like a few links to suppliers etc might be useful.
Machine Mart are sometimes good for pliers/wire etc and for magnetic clamps etc I use Frost.co.uk |
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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k
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AndyT
Moderator Group Joined: 16 May 08 Location: Ammanford Status: Offline Points: 2274 |
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Mine's a Speedglass which I bought from BOC years ago, shades from 3 to 11.
11 is fine for welding but to be honest I'd recommend a 2/11 if they are available. Damn good price tho. P.S. Batteries last 2000 hours or there abouts so running costs are none existent. |
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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k
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thal
Yardie Joined: 29 Apr 08 Location: Bolton Status: Offline Points: 514 |
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Hi new electronic weldimg masks on E bay from about £25
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team french
Yardie Joined: 02 Oct 08 Location: carlisle Status: Offline Points: 205 |
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with gas you should push with cored wire(non gas) you generaly drag. tho as above these arent hard and fast. for other equipment an edge setter or joggler is handy. the hand/plier type cost about £35. for pannel repairs id say its a must realy. and sanding disks(with the backing disk type) can be better than grinding disks on thin sheet and paint removal and also cheaper!
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1978 2litre LT28 abbomination!!!!
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AndyT
Moderator Group Joined: 16 May 08 Location: Ammanford Status: Offline Points: 2274 |
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Thanks for the post mate, nice to get a second opinion and some more tips.
I've just added a link to a website which has movies and stuff which should be of interest to beginners |
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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k
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mikebdomain
Groupie Joined: 16 Sep 08 Location: Bournemouth Status: Offline Points: 223 |
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Hi Andy
Some great advice there - although I could never get on with a gasless welder - I use argon with a SIP Topmig 150 turbo - mind you probably something to do with the fact that I can only seem to weld with 1mm wire.
My advice for practicing 'starting out' welding is
Turn your gas on (if it has gas)
Set your welder up on the lowest wire feed speed and on the power setting for the sheet thickness you are welding with (consult your manual)
Hold the welding torch at a slight angle about 5-10mm away from a bit of scrap metal, pull the trigger and turn the wire feed up slowly until you hear a nice constant crackling sound.
Once you have the constant crackling sound off to a tea - move the torch with a slight left to right motion.
Some people drag the wel others push - I prefer to drag it.
A couple of points
Never weld without a mask (you will wake up in the midle of the night screaming in pain...been there)
And find a suitable mask that you can actually see through once you are welding..
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1995 LT35 2.4 Diesel
Camper conversion |
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AndyT
Moderator Group Joined: 16 May 08 Location: Ammanford Status: Offline Points: 2274 |
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Hi Folks,
Feel free to chip in with advice or other comments, and I'll consolidate things so It doesn't get too long. First thing is that even if you haven't welded before its not that difficult so don't be put off. Purchasing the correct equipment can be expensive but will save you money in the longer term, particularly if you've got an older bus like mine. General Advice Most people can't fit their van in their garage so are restricted to welding outdoors, this means that you may need to buy a gasless mig welder. In many cases they are able to use gas as well but check before buying. If you choose to use gas then there are several "mixes" available, and with experience you will probably obtain a better quality weld. Clean the area you intend to weld thoroughly, this will highlight any weak/rusty spots and will save you time in the long run. Best site I know for general advice and tips is:- http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/ Safety Never ever start welding without a mask, don't even pick up the tool. At best its painful (red weeping eyes etc), at worst its blindness. If possible have someone on hand with a spray bottle, to put out any fires. Paint, underseal etc are all flamable and care must be taken at all times. If working with someone, get into the habit of shouting "eyes" before you strike a weld. This way they know to look away. If working on your own, stop regularly to check for fire/smoke, and make damn sure you can get out of the vehicle, or from underneath it double quick. When working on vehicles it is recommended that you disconnect the battery, just make sure you have the codes for the radio etc before you do so. The Welder These are available for about £150, mine is a SIP 130amp and has given good service for the last 6/7 years without any problems Modern welders probably give more control but I don't have any experience of them, so can't recommend anything. Basic welders like mine can weld upto 6mm thick steel which is fine for vehicles. The Mask Very important in my view is to buy the electronic mask, which allows you to see what you are doing, and goes dark once you start welding. Going to cost you about £70, but you only get one pair of eyes, using the standard mask is safe if you know what you are doing, but be bloody careful if you don't. Practicing Once you have bought the equipment you are going to be itching to practice, so what do you need. Any mild steel is suitable for tbis but be prepared to clean up about an inch or so either side of where you intend to weld, serves 2 purposes, you don't mix paint etc into the weld which reduces strength, its easier to strike a weld, and there is less chance of starting a fire which you can't see through the mask easily. Other Equipment I use a 4" angle grinder £20ish for clean up work and a good quality wire brush for cleaning up the weld. Angle grinders are versatile if noisy, you can buy grinding disks, cutting disks and wire brush attachments quite cheaply. All of these last a long time so running costs are low. I also use:- A sheet metal bender from Screwfix for £50ish. Different clamps from Machine Mart @ £12 for 4. Niblex from Frost @£28 (like drawing on paper but you are cutting metal) Actual Repairs Firstly have a look at the Welding Projects topic, if you are new to welding LT's then you could get some useful tips about your particular problem. For general bodywork I use 0.9mm sheet, and for chassis work 1.2mm or thicker. The problem with thicker steel is that its harder to bend to shape, anything over 1.2mm is beyond my equipment, so I don't use it very often. That's all for now, more to follow as others offer their advice. Cheers Andy Edited by AndyT - 16 Oct 08 at 22:11 |
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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k
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