I've just carried out the water pump replacement on my early 2005 T5 174 (AXE) LHD Caravelle.First of all I would like to thank:
Onefut: for the inspiration to do the water pump change myself. I'm very grateful.
T5 TDI: for his tips which saved much time an effort.
Auto Ile un Herbst (My local VW agent): for helping, rather than hindering!
The job took me only 3 hours (less than what VW allow), and I wasted a fair bit of time as it was the first time.
The following info may help:
1) I forgot to clamp the coolant pipes leading to the heater matrix, but had no problem refilling when the job was done.
2) I only needed to unbolt and
move the coolant header tank (not disconnect pipes) so that I had a better
view of the water pump.
3) I drained to coolant via the temperature sender at the bottom of the radiator (opposite end to the pipe that Onefut disconnected - passenger side in UK). It was easy to disconnect by hand. Keep an eye open for the O-ring!
4) As I was changing the oil, I didn't bother draining coolant from the pump housing - I left the plug and pipe alone. A
very small amount of residual coolant got into the oil, so I ran the motor until operating temperature before draining the oil. Some condensation was visible in the oil filler neck (was not before), but this was easily removed before filling with new oil.
5) I'm not sure that the 2x pump mounting bolts are Torx. I have a set of Torx sockets (with 6 points) but none fitted perfectly. What did fit was a 12 point key marked MV10. Onefut mentioned this number, but I don't know what it's called. I think it's quite common on VWs as I had it for use on my 1986 Passat years ago.
6) I made a simple tool to remove the pump, based on what T5 TDI used (I'm not old enough to have bits of BMC in my garage!). It came out very easily. Photo at end of this post.
7) I lubricated the external seals on the new water pump with coolant (inner seal) and oil (outer seal).
8) My VW dealer gave the following torque values (please check, as I cannot be 100% sure that they are correct):
2 x M8 (MV-10) pump mounting bolts: 20 Nm + 90 degrees.
1 x M12 (24mm spanner) drive sprocket nut: 84 Nm.
9) It was really easy to remove the drive-sprocket by gently tapping with a toffee hammer. I know Onefut said this, but I didn't realise it would come off so easily and with such gentle taps.
10) When re-fitting the pump, the 2x mounting bolts are just long enough to draw the pump into place without the need for a mallet.
11) It was difficult to get the dip-stick tube back into the hole near the sump - I found that there was burring around the end of the tube that prevented it sliding into the O-ring that was left in the hole. I put a shamfer of the tube and fitted a new O-ring to the tube, rather than leaving the O-ring in the hole.
Next time I think it would be quite easy to do in under 2 hours.
Prices:Ebay: Pattern water pump made in Spain: £239 + 20 P+P! No exchange. Ouch!
VW UK: £61 including VAT exchange unit. £124 with no return of old pump. Made in Germany.
Coolant: 2 x 1.5 l at £8.19
VW allow 3.5 to 3.8 hours for the job. I think UK dealers charge about £100 per hour. Sheppards in Bishop's Stortford said that they can do it in 3 hours.
I paid more for my pump, as our money is pegged to the euro. You guys are getting a great deal from VW as they've kept your prices low even though the £ is weak as hell!
Additional info:My VW dealer said that they have found that these water pumps last for 120k km (about 75,000 miles). The new one will not last longer - it's the same as the old design inside.
My metal impeller looked as if it had been eaten by electrolysis - like sacrificial anodes on boats. This may be why the new pumps have impellers made of a plastic-like material.
2 x 1.5 litres of coolant pink G12 Plus Plus should do the job. 3 l coolant + 4.5 l water = -24 deg. C
Any sign of corrosion (like Onefut's) suggests that the correct coolant was not present at some time. Mine had minor rust staining around the down-facing weep hole in the pump its self - that's all, but still a mystary if the coolant is supposed to prevent corrosion.
Home-made puller (the hole on the flat end needs to be dia. 12mm, verticals need to be 35mm apart):
Puller on pump:
My dealers said another weak point are the rubber toothed drive wheels
for the alternator and the air con. pump. Both are the same. They've
found that they give up at around 150k km (90,000 miles) and can cause
expensive damage if left. If replaced before failure, only about £30
odd each. Does anyone know about these?
My motorcycle's water pump failed two days before the van's - at 32,000 miles, so I better go and do that as well! What is it with these water pumps!!?
Best regards and good luck, Rupert
Edited by Happy Yellow - 07 Dec 09 at 15:02