T4 lowering thread.

Hi guys,

Cheers Jets,

my mate has a tube box spanner thingy
got it from an iveco van
was for changing wheels
is perfect

wd 40, wire brush, then coat in copper slip, threads eaasy then

i got some cheap springs on the bay too
they say 80 on them, and erm, rear is on the floor
lookc cool, but need some new shorter shocks now, as the originals are bottoming out

some1 told me that bmw e36 rear springs are a lowering spring for the t4? is this correct?? Im guessing spring rate etc will be diff, but will they do the job on the cheap  for now??

i must have been lucky with mine, 27mm open ended and a slight bit of gurning and down came the torsion nuts, nice and easy. found the rears a piece of the preverbial aswell, apart from the top bolt on the drivers side strut being siezed so i removed the bottom mount bolt instead. easy! i fitted 60mm springs but to be honest, they didnt lower it as much as i had hoped, i've since fitted -15mm lowering plates aswell and this made all the difference.
as an aside, bear in mind if your's is an AA van like mine, rip out the air bags whilst the rear is apart, they're probably knackered and will affect the damper travel on a lowered van

HELP!?! Bump...

feelingfunky wrote: Refering to the exploded diagram of the front suspension set up... Has any one ever found that on jacking up the front end, the Torsion bar (No1) falls out of the Rubber mounting saddle (No3). They both sit tight up in the saddle on my van, but on my mates van one side falls out while the other sits tight! Could this explain the random knocking noise we are trying to get to the bottom of? Could it be just a worn rubber mounting saddle or does it mean the torsion bar is bent/ twisted because we can't seem to find any other explanation? Has anyone seen this before? any help greatly apprieciated!

If you lower them too mcuh you take the pre-load away from the torsion bar, and what you describe happens, the rubber saddle can become dislodged.

I got a seized torsion bar nut - tried everything to shift it (the other one is virtually finger tight). I would get a gas axe to it but I need to drop the underfloor CAK tank first, which is held up with stainless bolts (one sheared). So I've opened up a whole can of worms, just to lower the van. How long should it take - an hour or a week?

A coupla months ago I went to Brickwerks where Simon fitted a 20mm shim. By good fortune, I suppose, no more adjustment was needed and the bloody "Westy Lean" has completely disappeared. What a relief - it was very annoying (to slide off the driver's seat every time I went too fast around a rh corner).

Edited by Smilo - 28 Sep 09 at 20:19

Crusti Croc wrote: anden wrote: get some more mechanical advantage, adjustable spanner tucked in a scaffolding pole released mine a tread, 4 ft of MA did the trick! 3 days of wd40 soak too and squeeky clean threads before i tried to move it, 2-3 complete roations and down onto the clean thread and it was finger loose almost. How long does the scaffold pole have to be - I was standing the other side of the van - all it did was to round off my specially bought socket. With the springs fitted, I twatted my towbar sockets on a speed hump - so I've given up on lowering and raised the rear instead for a Syncro look (all I need is the knobbly tyres). Keeping the springs for a new project...

hi mate my advice is to use single x type sockets/spanners the ones that look like a 50p shape,,then it fits around the nut/bolt perfectly & keep spraying the said nut/bolt/tread with penertrating fluid over a few days before having a go at it,,a decent sized braker bar should help too