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Electric Windows - Regulator Removal

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Vanorak
Vanorak
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Joined: 05 Nov 05
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    Posted: 03 Sep 14 at 08:42
This subject has already been covered by 'Rebuild' a couple of years ago but I thought perhaps someone might be helped by some different pics/description. This guide is for the older model only although the 5.1 is probably identical.

In order to replace the electric window regulator or the door lock you will first need to remove the door trim and the window glass in order to be able to remove the large metal plate that the regulator is fixed to. The regulator comes complete with the metal plate. You can buy cheap regulator repair kits on ebay but good luck to anyone who tries to fit one!  If I haven’t frightened you off already, here’s how to do it: Smile


Removal

Once you have the door trim off (see my other thread) http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/how-to-remove-door-card-trim-pics_topic31752.html

Pop out the small round grommet for the door release cable. Push in the larger oval grommet for the wiring loom inside the door.   

To remove the glass- With the window down, remove the INNER rubber weather strip. Pop open the two large rubber access covers in the metal plate

Move the window up to about the halfway point until you can spot the two 10mm headed bolts that clamp the glass through the access cover holes. Remove both bolts.




It’s best to get someone else to hold the glass at this point so there is no possibility of it falling inside the door and breaking. With the glass firmly held at the halfway position, press the ‘down’ button so that the glass clamps withdraw to the bottom. You can now remove the glass. It needs to be tilted a fair bit and comes out to the outside of the door frame. Put it somewhere where it can’t fall over!



Wind the window back up to the halfway position then remove all the wiring multiplugs for electric windows not forgetting the little wire for the door lock button led.

Remove the eight 10mm bolts that hold the metal plate/motor/regulator assembly. This should now free off. It will have to be wiggled a bit for the regulator cables on one side and the plastic door lock guard (by my thumb below) on the other to door.




Bear in mind that at this point it will still be attached by the various wiring looms passing through it. If you only need access to the lock you can support its weight and leave it attached if you don't mind the restricted working space.  But obviously don't allow any wiring to get pulled too tight. 




You can operate the window mechanism for testing purposes with the regulator mechanism in view (you will have to refit the window switch and the three multiplugs). Be very careful to keep your hands out of the way and make sure that the regulator doesn't catch any of the various wiring looms as it moves. Don’t forget it may still ‘auto' up/down’ if the ignition is on. 


Mine had been making an annoying creaking noise as it got near the top so I used white spray grease on the cables and pulleys since they looked bone dry. I could see the remains of a bit of original white grease on a couple of the plastic pulleys but that was it. I worked the window up and down a few times so the grease got right down into the outer cables. If you use any sprayable grease it’s best to cover up the rubber grips on the window glass lower clamps first so they don’t get slippery.


                                                                                        
                                              Refitting

Run the window regulator back up to halfway so you can see the clamp bolts through the holes again. Then wiggle/tilt the plate back in.  It will catch on the bottom left (pulleys cables etc) and the top right (plastic lock guard). There is a locating dowel each side of the plate about halfway up which keeps the regulator aligned correctly and stops it trying to turn rather than push the window up.

 


Make sure you pass the door release cable through the plate and can get at the loom grommets to put them back them before refitting the eight bolts.

Refit the glass into the window frame channels then lower the glass into the two glass clamps. Don't move the regulator at this point until you have the clamp bolts refitted.

The auto up/down feature will need resetting after disconnecting the wiring- Wind the window fully down in one go and hold the switch down until you hear a small click as the thermal cut out operates. Wind the window up and do the same. You may need to do this more than once if it doesn't work.

Don’t try and fit the door trim without first resetting the trim clips ‘cause they’ll only break!  It’s not a bad idea to buy a few spare clips anyway just in case.

Good luck!
    












   
The images in this post were originally held to (what I consider to be) a ransom of $400 (unpaid!) by Photobucket.  I am now using imgur.com to host these pics.



Edited by T5 TDI - 15 Jul 17 at 21:33
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