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Paul Van Denton View Drop Down
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    Posted: 10 Apr 12 at 16:56
Hi all! 

just recently i have lost power in my van, when accelerating there would be a point say 3.5- 4 k revs the cams would kick in and it would rapidly accelerate but now i don't seem to get that "kick" it just accelerates slowly up the revs. 

I have had an acceleration problem before when you give it wide open throttle it would seem to stall but back off a tiny bit and it would go, but this is different, it doesn't make if=t fun to drive anymore 

i did a compression test 178 175 160 160 so it seems one side is down but would this directly relate to the sudden loss of acceleration. 

any help or advice would be appreciated 

cheers, Paul
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Points: 1031 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big red bus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 12 at 17:06
What fault codes you getting?
possible air flow meter  but need to check codes first.
You have got fault code flash light wired in haven't you.
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Paul Van Denton View Drop Down
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Points: 48 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Paul Van Denton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 12 at 22:11
i will have to get back to you on the codes if there any. i disconected my maf to see if it made a difference, it made the idle speed go up and down so its doing something! i will have a look this weekend.

cheers
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Points: 1031 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big red bus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 12 at 23:23
disconnecting the maf won't do any thing apart from put fault code in ecu. ecu will replace value that it should be getting from the maf with preset value so will run but obviously not like it should.
Have you checked all obvious things first. plugs leads connections earths ?
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Paul Van Denton View Drop Down
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Points: 48 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Paul Van Denton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 12 at 12:04
Oh i see, i did have a look at the obvious, i couldnt see anything. I guess the way to check is to spray wd40 on various hoses to see if it changes idle? all plugs and leads are fine i think. If it was the coil was on the way out would it be most likely to die under hard load, coz it pootles round fine, if i didnt drive it hard you would never notice.
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Points: 629 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote james72 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 12 at 15:57
Could be the O2 sensor, mine devoloped a bit of flat spot when mine went. Check you error codes matey.
T3 Multivan 3.0 H6
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Paul Van Denton View Drop Down
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Mine doesnt even have one! do you think it should?
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Points: 48 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Paul Van Denton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 12 at 21:52
just got home and checked the van, it appears it also doesnt have the ability to check the fault codes, maybe im doing it wrong i dunno. I plug in the green ones together and turn ignition on, i doesnt appear to do anything, then i plug in the black ones together and turn ignition on, nothing happens, i have no light flashing. What light is usually wired to it? 

Also both my green and black connectors only have 1 wire going into them and it looks like it should possibly have 2?

soooooooo shall i try and trace where the wire for the check light signal comes from? 
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Points: 1031 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big red bus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 12 at 23:19
Think you should have a lambda but suppose it could be from an early motor. What colour label is on your air flow meter. Think early one's were brown and later green. My check light wires are all single pin but need to look at it to see which ones connect to each other.
 You defo need a flash light. Check the side of the ecu. Seem to remeber some jap stuff has error light built into ecu and is visible to count flashes.
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yeah i checked online seems the green plugs will check and then list all current faults, the black plugs are the memory plugs to list all stored faults. but i have no flasher and it doesnt seem to do anything when the greens are connected.
I think my ecu is a jdm import, no idea what year but its the only 2.2 ecu they did i think.
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Firstly get your fault reader working (green terminals only 1 wire to each).  This WILL tell you your problem.  Any ideas on who did the conversion?  Hopefully not TSR as i have heard of some wiring nightmares recently!  If it is an RJES coversion you will have a green/yellow checklight either in your engine bay or if someone 'splashed out' in your dash.

From my experience it is normally a faulty/loose sensor or an air leak.  However recently my fuel line from tank to pump had started to perish so when i floored it - it closed up giving a similar problem.  Was fine driving normally.

Could be knock sensor, throttle position sensor, inlet/outlet leak will all give problems with acceleration on full throttle but otherwise drive ok.  Thats from my own experience.

Not one for suggesting you look eleswhere but i assume you have located http://vwkd.com

Have a look you will find all the info you need on there.

Keep us posted.
89 Doka (EJ25 conversion)

71 Bug (1955cc twin 40s)

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Paul Van Denton View Drop Down
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Points: 48 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Paul Van Denton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 12 at 22:37
ok found my code light on side of the ecu! never thought to look there so cheers for that. Unfortunately there are no codes flashing, just flashes constantly. I will check everything physical. i think it was AMR who did the conversion.

Basically im trying to learn as much as i can about it all and put it all right, but i do  love it. cheers again guys.
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update, ok took my maf apart today





so i was reading about mafs and it seems some people have had a good experience with spray cleaners, so i got this.




im not sure but i think it made a difference, its definately alot smoother with less hesitation. Maybe i need to get a new maf? hmnmmm
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update 2, didnt get to change my fuel lines, halford dont have long enough 8mm hose! so got that on order, but now its developed a misfire in low revs, if i  accelerate it splutters then fires normally, so no i have a usual rev range of 2.5k to 3.5k :( Angry
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im not sure if you can make it out in this video but its as if its misfiring while accelerating, you can here the normal acceleration sound kick in at 32 seconds for like a split second than it goes back to misfire. :( 


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and it was running o.k before you used that stuff on the maf?
there is your answer to the misfire.
Never had any good experiences when trying to clean maf. 
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Paul Van Denton View Drop Down
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Points: 48 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Paul Van Denton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 12 at 11:33
yeah it does soundlike that, its just weird as it was noticably better after spraying but then developed to this. Its very similar to when my fuel pump died but that would kind of miss at the latter end of the revs.
 
What a ploper
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Points: 587 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flowervanman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 12 at 15:26
If amr did your conversion I'm guessing you won't have a vss fitted. He doesn't fit them cos he hasnt got a fuckin clue what they do and how shit your engine will run without one! Spent 5 years sorting mine out after he fucked it up!
Not saying it is vss but mine had numerous problems, sometimes intermittant so not easy to diagnose. Fitted a vss from Richard at Rjes and it's sorted most of my running problems. Don't ask amr he'll have you altering your iac and throttle stop thingy and it'll be even harder to get right! and he'll swear that his conversions don't need one!
Like somebody else said vwkd great for help or if you're lucky allanw will be along shortly on here cos he is a Subaru guru and was a massive help to me,
You're one of the lucky ones if you've got check plugs AND a light as he normally chops both off, I've got neither.
The pic of your loom looks a lot better than mine so he might have been to college or employed an auto electrician

Edited by flowervanman - 16 Apr 12 at 15:28
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Paul Van Denton View Drop Down
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Points: 48 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Paul Van Denton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 12 at 21:07
flowervanman i feel your pain!!!!

ok just had a quick look at the van, checked to see if i am getting any fault codes so i put the greens together and start the engine, the led on the ecu just flashes, no codes. So i put the black ones together and turn the ignition, no change the ecu just flashes constantly. Sooooo i unplug the blacks and turn the ignition on and off and on again and look at the ecu.....it still just flashes. So what does this mean? is it wired in wrong? are the self diagnostic greens not wired in? i dunno. 

Also im not sure but i think the fuel pump is making a louder nose than usual, i cant be certain but maybe. What a shit kicker.

so do i change the 

maf? 100$ or

fuel pump 60 $

or coil and leads 100$

$= pounds (american laptop)
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If you need a coil and leads i have a spare set from when i had a similar problem.  I can't help but think your code reader is not working.  Are you sure there is not a pause and speed difference in the flashing fault light?  

You need a speed sensor 99% of the time my conversion didn't, even when fitted has made no difference, light will flash slow 3 times and then fast 3 times - 33 = VSS.  

I used to accelerate hard and then engine revs would drop off and i would get a kind of judder, burble from the engine and it would suddenly come right back.  Used to annoy the shit out of me. After changing practically everything (i have a spare engine) found it was fuel/starvation.  This is what has caused the same problem with me over the last 5 years (not all at once normally after or before i'm due some engine/service work: daily driver = mega miles) :

Filter should be after pump (it makes a difference).
Have you got any leaks in your air intake or inlet manifold?
Lambda connected?
Check the condition of your knock sensor (is it cracked?)
If i am low on fuel and drive very hard/sharp corners i always get hesitation.
Exhaust leaking
Injectors connected to correct injector? (it's possible and it will run: badly)
Dirty cam sensor?
Timing?
Everything connected?
Fit a VSS
(most of the above would throw up a code

I know the above sound simple but they have all affected me at some stage.....so check.  Have you removed your plastic cam covers and lined up all the timing marks (2/4 cam?).  Do they line up?  I had managed to nudge right bank around 2 teeth after doing head gaskets.  (Right side is under tension when fitting timing belt).  This will allow it to run but again badly and as you say with a miss fire in right bank.

Try the above, hope you get it sorted.
89 Doka (EJ25 conversion)

71 Bug (1955cc twin 40s)

65 Ragtop Bug (Mrs Griff)
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