Clutch

When you say gone do you mean clutch slip or clutch drag. ???

Slip, but not the same as last time if that makes sense?? First time the clutch went from slipping to gone in a short space of time, this seems to be more drawn out and inconsistant, maybe it is an oil leak?

jimbob wrote: 2.5hrs, they did me for 6hrs @ £37.5 + VAT. To be fair it needed a new slave cylinder which cost £86 + VAT

One of these ?

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=260&category_id=48

OEM quality for less than £50!!

Im not a pro mechanic and dont have even access to a 4 poster ramp etc but have done a syncro clutch in less than that and that was the first time i had done one. Are they are VW 'specialist', independant garage or just plain 'ole chancers/cunts ?

I guess they billed you for tea/dinner breaks aswell.

Did you get (or ask) for old parts back last time?

Im proper cynical. Charge you thr the arse to do the job, 'replace' clutch that they have billed you for when all they have done is cleaned contamination off cover and maybe thrown in a new plate. Easy not to tell you about any seals gone as you didnt ask too many questions last time they know you will come back and they will arse rape you again using another excuse.

 Sorry, im a cunt so judge everyone by my standards. Good luck chap!!

What engine have you got in there?  standard one?  IIRC there are no differences in syncro and 2wd clutches...

jimbob wrote: 2.5hrs, they did me for 6hrs @ £37.5 + VAT. To be fair it needed a new slave cylinder which cost £86 + VAT

hold on! it took 2.5 hour to get the box out, but that includes a few stuck/rusty bolts so going back will be qicker...i dont know how long it "should" take but 4.5 hours should cover it i think including tea, fag, and piss farting about breaks, (maybe even a crafty google of some porn) the new crutch cylinder wont take any longer as its off anyways.

Edited by max and caddy - 21 Dec 11 at 18:08

to be fair it could be a flywheel fault...my jx one had a lot of wear on so got it re faced but if you dont remove metal from the clucth mounting area it will lose a lot of its clamping force...

what make clutch did they fit?

how did the pedal feel with the new clutch?

where was the bite point of the new clutch?

how long did your last clutch last?

may be worth the expence of an independant assessment. if they are confident its your fault then they wont mind this. however if they are trying to hide something they wont be to chuffed at this suggestion.

it is a difficult one but the clutch makers will try and get out of it everytime but it has lasted almost a year so suggests its worked ok till now. very difficult one ???????

well if its worn out and burnt "due to slip" then its either.

1. clutch pedal not relaesing correctly causing slip. either by riding the clutch "driver fault...not suggesting this" or the relaese bearing not being allowed to return fully. stiff fork faulty hydrilics / blocked flexi ect.

2. the pressure plate grip was never surfice in the first place allowing slip even when pedal fully disenguaged.

3. the material used was shit in the first place has worn too quickly thus reduced grip pressure, thus inducing slip all ending in burnt.

bit of a chicken and egg question. ???

would like to know which make clutch was fitted.
lee.

I don't know about the flywheel, all it says on the invoice is 're-worked'. I am going to speak again to consumer direct on Tuesday and see where I stand. When they fitted the new clutch this year they should have advised on any adjustments or parts that need to be renewed. I have been even more careful this year than the previous 2 years, I just can't see how my driving can be at fault.

if that is the case then we need to get a depth measurement on a std flywheel and a depth measurement on your flywheel to confirm it`s been skimmed properly or not as the case may be.

i have seen a partially blocked clutch flexi hoze not allow the clutch bearing to release fully before now. clutch felt a little heavy as the hydrolics forced fluid though on the down stroke and felt normal on the release aprt from the fact that stalling the engine on the clutch was not easy, as a quick release was not allowed.

if your syncro has a rubber flexi then this may apply if it doesn`t then obviously it wont.

have a jx flywheel in work and will be back in on 3rd. if you need measurements before then let me know.

lee.