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AHU wild camper panelvan!

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Scimdiesel View Drop Down
Yardie
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scimdiesel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb 16 at 13:27
I can't....  I'm sure it is possible   But contact  http://syncrosport.com/   (SyncroAndy).

I liked the idea of having a proper immobilizer...after soldering and extending all the wires to the cab I realized my ECU must be free running as with or without the black box connected it still starts and runs. That's a 1/2 a day of my life i'll never get back.   Although I do have a Spare ECU, chip and key so one day i might have another go.   

At the same time I extended the wires for Cruise control to the front.   You need a Speed sensor in the back of the speedo.      brickwerks do a stalk with the switches.  The ECU needs this part switching on.    
Without engineers science is just philosophy..... Joined the revolution with a 18 year old TDI :
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Bennythew View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bennythew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb 16 at 13:39
Mario at MV has built a loom up for me. It has an immobiliser delete and obd already worked into it.

As I've mentioned I'm going for a full kit from Mario, it lets me use a stock exhaust and both stock mounts. I could weld both pretty comfortably but the van is being built with traveling in mind. It's easier to fix stock parts on the road than find someone to fabricate them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scimdiesel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb 16 at 15:48
Sounds like your sorted and MArio has a good reputation for good stuff well tested.  its definalty the safest bet.  

There is a good argument for  using as many stock parts as possible its just common sense.  If everything is Stock VW and not neccessarly Stock T3, then you really need need to know what you have if you need to buy them in the wild.  Also lots of the Stock T3 stuff is maybe harder to buy on the hoof than Golf mk3 stuff.

To use the Standard mount I'm assuming your using a different exhaust manifold to hold the turbo in a different position.  If its a standard JX one its going to be harder to get one of those in the middle of France than one off a mk3 golf 1.9tdi... But the likely hood of a manfold expiring to the extent of it being a break down i would have though would be slim..  You will have an adapter to attach AHU turbo to JX exhaust is likely to be more reliable than my modified exhaust.   My engine mount will out last the van so not worried about that.  Some on the market look quite fragile.  When you do the conversion I would also add some other stuff to the list...    I think the most likely break downs in no order are going to be aged turbo death, water pump, water pipes, misc electrical issue.   That's one of the reasons I changed most of the Pipes to new.  new waterpump, and soldered all my wiring and not used crimp connectors.  and always carry an big bag of spanners, electrial bits and bobs etc.   "That" alone ensures I've not had a single away issue for years.       
Without engineers science is just philosophy..... Joined the revolution with a 18 year old TDI :
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote busbuddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb 16 at 19:37
Originally posted by Bennythew Bennythew wrote:





I'm still musing over ratios.

I want to split the box and put a taller 5th in it, but this box isn't my keeper, just what I'm going with till I can afford the box build I want. This case will be my spare.


 have you ever driven a tdi'd van with just a longer 5th in it? because its quite a jump up from 4th, a few people have had boxes rebuilt a second time to get rid of it as it just gears the van slightly wrong
when i was researching my tdi swap i drove a remapped afn powered westy and a normal 1Z/ahu westy both with just a longer 5th , on both they made me 'uncomfortable' when driving because i felt like i had selected the wrong gear every time i used 5th, the afn could pull the gear easy but it still felt wrong
just my opinion but the gear is not cheap and as its just a 'make do' box you dont want to be wasting money

i opted for bigger rear tyres until i got my box done by aidan with a new r&p but normal gears and the normal 1Z/ahu shoves my bungalow along very nicely 
 




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scimdiesel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 16 at 09:30
Until its done it is really hard to try and judge gearing. Also the weight of your van, the shape (high top vs low), you! your driving and expectations!.    I pondered this for a long long time..    I spoke to Mario as I was considering a Passat box as everyone seamed to be at it a few years back.  His advise was to get a Std box re-geared as it just fits and works where as the passat there's additional challenges which do cost in time and parts. plus its very non standard after.    Mario having driven most combinations suggested the 4.14 diff as being really nice option with 1z/AHU.  Aiden rebuilt my box with a 4.14 diff.   With a bog standard AHU 90 bhp  its fine.   90 bhp pushing a brick and the weight is never going to be Sporty, but it goes along well enough.  I'd though of up-rated injectors but never got around to it and leaves it all fairly unstressed.  For the family touring about and holidaying its good and goes up and down hills fine.   When I sometimes drive it empty of kids, wife and STUFF it feels amazing!.   I had wanted to rebuild the box myself.  I've been in and out of a few other gearboxes and consider myself as very mechanical and able to tackle most things.   When I looked into getting the tools and the cost of parts, and finally the risk factor of wrecking some expensive internals and gearbox I held back my pride and paid Aiden.   I can't remember exactly the figures but, I think doing it myself could have saved ~ £400  The gearboxes are a bit special, the high street rebuilders are not advisable.   Aiden has the experience, spares and knows the weak parts needing changing regardless of apparent condition.  Also theres adding of a stronger 4-5th syncro hub, oiling plates.        The only thing I missed was the sense of satisfaction. 

Something I've just remembered.   If your using the TDI flywheel and clutch.  You need a TDI input shaft.   Also you need to cut the tabs off the pressure plate as these make a horrible knocking noise against the bell housing. when you start it up for the first time.  (I paniced and thought big ends where knackered but they got better! in about 5 minutes).   Also to use a Starter adapter to use the TDI starter motor.  I don't think the standard t3 starter will work with TDI flywheel as the number of teeth are different for a start. 
Without engineers science is just philosophy..... Joined the revolution with a 18 year old TDI :
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote busbuddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 16 at 18:53
my old jx starter motor has been fine on the tdi flywheel for 7 years, no probs
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scimdiesel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 16 at 08:48
I stand corrected corrected on the starter :).
Without engineers science is just philosophy..... Joined the revolution with a 18 year old TDI :
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bennythew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 16 at 11:11
Update long overdue.

There has been a bit of a change of tack on this build.

I'd been very much in two minds about gear ratios. No matter what I did the numbers were close, totally doable but not perfect.

I looked at getting my DK box refurbed to sort the gearing out but after some reserch and chats with Aidan I found out the DK has a finer tooth ratio in 5th. If I was going to spend money on a tdi box I wanted the very best base box I could find.

SoI started to look and by sheer fluke bought an Aidan refurbed box, oiling plates, weddle forth and fith and only 8k miles old.
It was surplus to requirements as the PO is going mid engine v6.

It did pose one problem however.
It was a very long box so running it with my off-road tyres and 90bhp might have been a little bit of a stretch.
I spoke with Mario about updating my parts package to get more power but then I had a bit of a realisation.

The gearbox wasn't cheap, the parts kit was increasing in price and I was looking at having some bodywork done locally.
It was turning into a pretty high cost build.
So I decided to go all out.

The van is now at MV engineering having a mini resto and a custom tdi installation.

The spec should be a new AHU engine with a late vnt turbo setup from a PD and a mk4 golf Ecu and custom loom.
Should be pushing out 150bhp prior to mapping and closer to 180bhp afterwards.

Engine bay will be repainted (I've specified grey)
New front panel,
Minor work all round to make it solid and finished in red non pourus primer till I can get it in for paint,
New fuel tank,
215/70/15 off-roaders on steels,
Bull bars fitted,
All will be undersealed with 3m.

The rear suspension has been totally rebuilt and powdercoated and the rear brakes are all new.

From there I have to rebuild an interior and replace/refurbed the rest of the van as I go.

Fingers crossed I get the van back in 5 weeks.

It's not been cheap and certainly not stress free, but I've decided this one is a keeper so it's worth the effort.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bennythew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 16 at 11:17
The mini resto has ended up me going all out, most seems have been split, lots of parts replaced.

I've been very lucky that the label was in such good shape to begin with. It should be pretty outstanding after this however!

I'm also having a full respray.

All of this has ment that I won't be getting the van back till the start of October.


I'll update fully when I get it back.
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