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AFN TDI install

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syncroandy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote syncroandy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: AFN TDI install
    Posted: 31 Mar 12 at 09:07
Right, about time I put up a few pics I think. I've been working on it long enough and plan to have it finished within the fortnight in time for the 1st. syncro event of the year.

I originally started looking at upgrading my pickup to TDI a year ago, intending to do a vertical install using a Passat 3B engine complete with mounts, flywheel starter etc. I spent ages considering this, designed and mocked up an adapter plate, but then I had surgery last summer and couldn't lift anything for months so the project stalled. Came back to it last winter and decided to go 55-degree just to get the thing finished. I therefore used a block from a transverse install just to make the job more compatible with JX bits. The engine was fully stripped and rebuilt, with new bearings, lifters, nozzles etc.

I wanted to use as many unmodified original components as possible, eg. turbo, exhaust, flywheel etc. So my design decisions were based around that, and adapters fabricated as necessary.

I looked at using the hydro mounts, but ruled them out for several reasons. Firstly they take up a bit more space than the JX ones, and I was concerned about fitting them in without having to change more than I wanted. Secondly I wasn't confident of their suitability for a 55-degree install. I was concerned there would be more weight on the left-hand mount than it was designed for, which might cause premature failure. I would use the hydro mounts but only in an upright install.

A few pics showing the left-hand engine mount:







I used the compact alternator bracket, and found the JX dipstick fitted nicely, there is a spare M8 tapping on the pump bracket. There was a bit of a bodge here as the TDI dipstick hole is wider, so used I a small o-ring and some silicone to seal it. I may replace it with an extended TDI one if it becomes a problem:



The gearbox was rebuilt with new 1.88 2nd, Albins 1.08 3rd, 0.70 4th, TDI input shaft, clutch release shaft, bearings and lever. I made up an adapter plate to use the TDI starter, which is more readily available, cheaper and stronger than the JX one:





Next jobs are to tidy up the existing chargecooler plumbing, assemble engine/gearbox, put it back into the van, then finalise the air pipework and wiring. More pics to follow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ninja.turtle007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 12 at 09:23
I'm looking forward to seeing it completed.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jc_geddes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 12 at 09:38
Now that looks like a proper job - well impressed so far andy.

The compact alternator bracket - what is that off? and does it allow you to use PAS?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote syncroandy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 12 at 09:50
Hi Tom, me too

The compact bracket was used on TD/TDI's without A/C, the PAS pump fits on under the water pump with some additional brackets, and a v-belt driven by a pulley which fits on top of the 'harmonic balancer' pulley on the end of the crank. I may retro-fit all this if I find a PAS rack for the pickup.

Edit. maybe I should add that the compact bracket needs a specfic alternator, different to the one used with the 'tensioner-style' bracket. Mine is off an AAZ, so has both D+ and W terminals, however my ECU is late and wants a DF connection on the alt, so it may throw a DTC. Time will tell..

Edited by syncroandy - 31 Mar 12 at 09:56
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Syncropaddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 12 at 11:21
Andy

Are you using a dual mass flywheel for this application and which motor are you using?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Garyd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 12 at 11:53
Andy,
a great looking project. I hope you can complete it to your timescale.

Your point about the compact alternator bracket looks to be a direct parallel with the issue I had when fitting my AGG petrol engine. The engine I bought came with PAS & aircon and the alternator stuck up through the engine deck lid. The set up also ran both a flat belt and a V belt. I too had to change both the bracket and alternator and pulley to get a lower, single belt set up.

On your point about sealing the dipstick into the block. Again a parrallel. I used the bottom end of the AGG dipstick tube and eased out the internal diameter to take the JX tube. Do this before shortening the bigger tube. Then cut it off just above the flange which sits against the block and insert the JX tube through it. The JX dipstick will be a couple of mm higher than normal but one needs to confirm where the correct oil level reading should be anyway.

cheers

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote syncroandy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 12 at 20:04
Syncropaddy - the block has an AHU engine number on it but is the same as an AFN, the other components are all off an AFN engine. I'm using an unmodified TDI single mass flywheel and VR6 clutch. There is the option of a dual-mass flywheel as fitted to the Mk3 Golf and 3A Passat with AFN, for those that want to go the dual-mass route.

Gary - thanks for that, I think the 'bushing' approach to the dipstick is better engineering, and I did consider it, but thought I'd try quick-and-dirty first to save time..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ..lee.. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 12 at 22:37
i like that mounting.  can you breed them? Big smile


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russel at syncronutz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 12 at 18:35
I do like your starter adapter. Very nice.
And for anyone looking for T3  TDI loom setup Andy is definitely the person to speak to. I can vouch
for that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote syncroandy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 12 at 21:05
Thx. Russel, fingers crossed it works, should be spinning the motor in the next day or so. The fiddly bit of the lathe work was off-centering the socket for the TDI starter by ~1.1mm to allow for it having a 10-tooth sprocket vs. the 9-tooth JX one. I hope its strong enough, if I did another one I'd get a bigger bit of aluminium and put more meat around the studs. TBH the ones from Germany at ~50 euro's are OK value, it takes hours to make one by hand.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote syncroandy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 12 at 20:11
Update time, engine and gearbox have now got to know each other and are back in the van. Today I went for a bit of a drive and spent £124 on silicone hoses and bits of aluminium tube

Prior to this I fitted a homemade shit plate and Ebay TDI flywheel (£20) and VR6 clutch (£20), both these were excellent condition and I'm sure should give me long service.

Shit plate (sealed carefully with silicone both to engine and bellhousing to avoid water ingress):

Clutch:


I also did some work on the chargecooler water plumbing, and the vacuum feed for the N75 valve. I was never very impressed with the effectiveness of the Pace system, so replaced the pump with a Merc one, and I'm relocating the rad from where it used to be (low down) to as high as it'll go. I figure it may get better airflow, and won't get clogged with mud quite so quick... For the vacuum, instead of using the donor car spherical reservior, I figure I may as well use the Syncro's massive reservior underneath. I simply inserted a t-piece and run a length of hard vac line up to the N75 valve. As I'm not using EGR, the N18 will just have its nozzles capped off, but will remain plugged in to the harness to avoid any DTC's.



Edited by syncroandy - 03 Apr 12 at 20:18
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work of art andy!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote syncroandy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 12 at 20:42
Aw shucks ! Forgot to mention the other thing was before fitting the vac pump I span up the oil pump with a power drill until I could feel a good resistance (actually the drill started to smell a bit..) also checking the oil pressure sender I have fitted with a DMM to see I had full pressure at the head.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote syncroandy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 12 at 21:47
Didn't start the engine today, too busy making pipes up from the parts I bought yesterday. Did use a few orig. pipes but couldn't have done it without silicone, shame as I don't really rate it.



A mock-up to show how they fit into the van, the chargecooler is in front of the L/H light cluster, the air filter is hanging above the L/H side of the engine bay (pickup so room to move it upward). Tried to take pics after fitting to engine, but you can't really see what's what.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote timmythedog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 12 at 07:48
Andy, could you comment on the N75, and N18. Is it important to have the reservoir attached? I've got myself a little confused setting mine upEmbarrassed. Are they in theory actually the same valve as mine appear identical aside from having a black and a grey? I haven't plumbed in the reservoir. N75 is feeding ecu and plumbed into actuator and next to intake air temp sensor. Have I fucked up!?
 
Lovely looking work you've done. Makes me want to pull mine back out and start again.Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote syncroandy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 12 at 17:46
Hi Timmy, I'm no expert but I'd assume the N75 needs the reservoir to operate correctly otherwise it wouldn't be there ? Maybe to respond to peak 'switching' demand from the ECU ? The N18 and AFN N75 do indeed appear to do exactly the same thing - modulate a vacuum - but maybe the characteristics of the diaphragm in the turbo and EGR system are sufficiently different to need different valves ? I'm only speculating.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jes*b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 12 at 19:04
Lovely to see knowledge and design come together. High calibre work Andy, looking forward to the master class at Shipston

Edited by jes*b - 06 Apr 12 at 19:05
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote syncroandy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 12 at 20:09
No pressure then ! I have a prior committment this weekend as well so will get bugger all done. Phoned the garage today to move the MOT to Weds so really I now have 2 days to get it on the road. Main things still to complete are bracket/linkage for the pedal sender, and fit the wiring, plus a few bits and bobs like refit drive shafts, repair and refit rear lighting harness. Really need to get engine started Monday latest so if any biggies there need sorting I've got a few days to resolve them. Last night I was under the van and spotted the vacuum pipe coming off the pump had a hole worn in it just where it passes under the firewall, so had to renew it. Fortunately I had enough bits robbed off cars in the scrapper to make a tidy job of it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote syncroandy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 12 at 20:42
Well... the engine is reluctant to start. Much cranking resulting in just a hot starter. I primed the pump as best as I could beforehand using a mityvac on the outlet till I got fuel coming out. However theres a big bubble in the inlet pipe that isn't budging.

I have a possible issue with the fuel shutoff solenoid, the ECU doesn't seem to be opening it. If I apply 12v directly I can hear it click, however with the ECU connected and the ignition on, it appears not to operate. Check with a meter confirms no 12v getting to solenoid. If I disconnect the wire from the ECU however, I get a DTC so that confirms the wiring ECU-> solenoid is OK. Puzzled as to why ECU is not opening it. Any views welcomed.

So I tried cranking with the solenoid 'hot wired' open, still no difference. Another possibility is seizure of the vane lift pump. The pumps not run for a year, but it was left with diesel in, inlet/outlet pipes and full fuel filter attached.

Edited by syncroandy - 09 Apr 12 at 20:51
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote max and caddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 12 at 21:15
Heyup!! is the pump spitting diesel out the ruturn pipe when cranking? if yes lift pump is ok...if no its most likely just not primed up yet...
 
solenoid click test is non conclusive but most likely its ok...does your FAGCOM have a "final control diagnosis" or actuator test function? if so you can switch with the ecu to test the output..
 
got any easy start?
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