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AAZ crank nose repair

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bevan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bevan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: AAZ crank nose repair
    Posted: 18 Mar 15 at 08:49
My newly acquired AAZ doka has a damaged crank nose!
I would like to repair it in vehicle if possible.
Is there a tool available to machine it for the D shape TDI crank pulley?
Or is dowelling a good option?
Help!

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bevan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bevan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar 15 at 08:51
Here is the damaged crank nose...



And the pulley

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ob1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ob1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar 15 at 11:56
That's quite serious. You can drill and dowel. Lots of people do with good results. It'd certainly get you back on the road. But really you need to drop the crank and take it to an engineering shop to be cut for the D shaped pulley?

I don't really think you can do that with the crank in situation? Be good if you could. I did see a tool made up for the task but I think it was on a U.S. forum? & again I'm sure you needed to drop the crank?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bevan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar 15 at 16:18
That's the conclusion I'm coming to. Going to clean it up tonight and check it's nice and square. Plan is to buy a new pulley and fit it with two steel dowels. I have definitely come across a thread somewhere and they had some engineer call to the garage and machine the crank for the D pulley while the engine was still fitted to the vehicle. Not sure where in the UK that was tho.
Done right, I think dowels will do the job, combined with a clutched alternator pulley and new crank bolt correctly torqued I hope to have no further problems!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GavB95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar 15 at 17:20
There's a thread here showing the standard crank nose and pulley being drilled/dowelled, it's JX but the same principal:

Bluestar T3 running AAZ/flipped box
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote monkey magic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 15 at 13:09
some guys on vwdiesel.net made a tool to clean this up/shape for the 'D' style pulley, in situ, so it can be done. THis is probably what OB1 has seen.

I don't like the dowel idea myself, from an engineering point of view it doesnt add up. The only thing needed to keep that pulley in place is the right bolt, properly installed, and renewed when necessary (cam belt interval?). The 'D' on the newer cranks, and the cutout on your crank nose, is not there to take the torque, its there to locate the pulley when fitting, nothing more. The bolt clamp force is taking the torque, so when these fail its because the bolt needed replacing, not a lack of a bunch of aftermarket dowels.

I think you're on the right track, clean it up new pulley clutched alternator etc, I just don't see the dowel thing as the answer.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scimdiesel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 15 at 14:22
I totally agree with Monkey.   The Bolt torque holds it still the key way acts as a locator while assembling.   Even later TDI's the cambelt kit comes with the bolt they do need changing over time....  


Without engineers science is just philosophy..... Joined the revolution with a 18 year old TDI :
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bevan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 15 at 20:56
I went with the dowel option in the end. Many have done it with excellent results and no problems so hopefully I will too!
I cleaned up the crank nose and removed the damaged material. new crank oil seal, new crank pulley, 3 hardened steel 4mm dowels and a new bolt. My tuned injection pump from Reg Cheeseman should be delivered in the morning so I'm hoping to have it all back together and running sweet on Monday, as long as GSF have the right size clutched alternator pulley on the shelf.

Drilled the new pulley on the pillar drill first, then bolted it up using the old bolt which I modified to allow me to drill through the pulley into the crank nose.


Fitted the the dowells using bearing adhesive


Here it is fitted with dowels and ready for the new bolt




Edited by bevan - 20 Mar 15 at 20:58
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ob1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ob1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 15 at 09:23
Looks solid enough. Can't see that failing very quickly?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bevan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 15 at 10:21
Fingers crossed! If it does fail, it was a gd excuse for me to buy a pillar drill.
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Aidan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Aidan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 15 at 09:09
worth ensuring you have the freewheeling pulley on the alternator set up to as that makes a massive difference to the load on the pulley and thus on the dowels/key etc.
Aidan Talbot, gearboxes for watercooled engines, 4, 5 speed and syncro front and rear rebuilt. 01691 648011, 07817 377938....www.aidantalbot.co.uk
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adez389 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov 18 at 22:09
My AAZ has the same problem! Does anybody know if this fix was a success?

Also where might I buy a clutched alternator pulley?

Thank you very much
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Timjburrows Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov 18 at 22:44
The tool VW use to tighten that bolt and hold the pulley is a meter long,most probably come loose as the oil seal gets changed and not tightened correctly afterwards with the correct bolt being used
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adez389 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov 18 at 22:49
Brickwerks website for a new pulley bolt is 90nm + 90degree turn after. So yes they should be very tight!
I'm deciding what to do about my damaged crank. I'm thinking of this dowl type repair plus replace my alternator pulley with the clutched type if I can find anything out about which one to use.
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