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2.5TDI Alternator removal

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langb20 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote langb20 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 2.5TDI Alternator removal
    Posted: 04 Dec 11 at 18:45
Hi All,
Just doing a favour for my brother as he's out fighting in afghan, to keep his van running so nothing seizes up while he's away for 8 months, though I've got more faith in my '85 transporter so far... but hey ho if I get it running properly then I have some bling wheels for a few months...

First job: Battery light is on and alternator not charging battery (11.7V when running) VW diagnosed and recommended new alternator (naturally) and made sure I was sitting when they quoted £620 for the job! so that'll be DIY style for me then, have put TD & TDI into T3's so hopefully things are simple on newer machines? Shocked

Got the front clip off to get to the damn thing that is in the belly of the beast


As per Alt mount pic from vag-cat: Undone all the bolts labelled 4 in below pic, and another long one that goes through the bottom hole near the mount (can see in the pic above) even managed to undo both #2 bolts through much knuckle pain and 1 or 2 ratchet clicks per movement using socket - painstakingly slow!



I understand by searching about these engines that the gates coupling should be changed ~100k miles so it's a job worth doing while I'm in there. however I can't get the damn alternator to budge, it's like it's stuck in there solid with next to no room to wedge anything or pry it out. any top tips from someone who's done this job before please? would like to get it to the sparky shop next weekend for recon

any help much appreciated Smile


Edited by langb20 - 04 Dec 11 at 18:51
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Onefut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 11 at 19:02
I could be wrong but I think it's front off to do the Gates couplings which in my thinking would mean the same for Alternator or PAS pump
I have this to look forward to soon as have to do the PAS pump Cry


Edited by Onefut - 04 Dec 11 at 19:03
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It's our choice: Listen to the whisper or wait for the brick!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gregozedobe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec 11 at 00:39
It is possible the gates coupling has stripped the rubber teeth, so look at that first.  Can you see if the alternator is rotating with the engine running ? If it seems OK then take the alternator to your sparky and get it checked out.

As you obviously know already, fixing an alternator or a reconditioned replacement is likley to be (much) cheaper than a new VW one.  If it is the internal drive for the alternator gone that is a completely different (harder) story.


I have an idea there might be a thread on changing gates couplings, so an advanced search with "any date" might find it/them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote langb20 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec 11 at 12:07
Thanks guys, unfortunately I've taken out the radiator to get at the alternator part of the engine so I'm not able to see what's turning (or not) with the engine running.
The gates coupling teeth appear to be good, thinking I may just cut it off with a stanley and hope that frees up the alternator for removal. may have to get medieval with it and apply some brute force!
Even the lower hard-to-get-at '#2' bolt is undone but not quite out as it hits something somewhere, this is a really fiddly job! everthing appears to be undone but nowt budging. grrr
Gates coupling replacement options... VW or GSF is there a quality issue with cheaper? don't want false economy cheapness (haven't researched prices yet) as doing this job is a days work
Cheers,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gregozedobe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec 11 at 13:37
Maybe just crank the engine for 1/2 second and switch off before it starts - get someone else to look at the alternator while cranking to see which bits rotate (and if any don't rotate).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote langb20 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 11 at 19:13
Fault found: regulator kaputt. £46 at local sparky's. common failure part apparently, beats a £200 replacement. happy days
looked at another 'gates coupling' thread and from their pic the front 'engine mount' thing had to come off to free it all up in there.
Will photo the put-together stages and reverse it for a bit of a how 2. interesting how VW have gone from the usual 17/19mm combo to a 16/18mm combo on bolts

probably should do the A/C while i'm in there, will research a few more threads on that first. the black saucer thing (clutch?) on the compressor end spins one way but not another which says to me the coupling is ok but A/C not working, might need gas too. as usual for VW's one job turns into many ;-)
Thanks all
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gregozedobe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 11 at 22:50
The A/C compressor on VW Golfs are well known for crapping out, so I wouldn't be surprised if T5s have the same problem.  If yours is cactus check that it hasn't pushed a whole lot of metal filings into the rest of the system, as if it has they will damage your new compressor unless you flush it well.

Edited by gregozedobe - 12 Dec 11 at 22:50
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote The Transporter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 11 at 23:33
Greg, Golfs have had crap compressors for years... The Sanden SD7V16 used to suffer from clogged displacement control valves causing them to run in minimum displacement mode.... You'll find them on the four cylinder T5.... It is possible to get them going again with a little skill but the main cause is folk waiting 'till their aircon doesn't work before they get them checked over.... There are situations where there is not enough refrigerant to do any cooling or carry lubricant but is enough vapour pressure to actually allow the compressor to run...Causing small metal shavings to collect in the displacement valve once the system is recharged.... The 5 cyl motor has an electronically controlled displacement valve which gives little trouble.... Flushing is a must for any dead compressor but most will risk it
2004 174bhp AXE engine..... Belligerence has been confirmed.
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