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1984 1.9DG to AGG Conversion

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Bromy View Drop Down
Vanorak
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bromy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jan 17 at 23:39
Looking good Thumbs Up How impressed are you with the silencer? Dampen the noise nicely? 
"follow the masses, do the opposite"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fufflenarnia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jan 17 at 20:01
For the key, I had a right click unit which uses a vw look alike flip key it has a space for the chip, but isn't as strong as a vw key and snapped after use. I had to cut down and profile a standard key to fit.

You may be better opening the golf key and seeing if you can graft your key into the key top.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fufflenarnia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jan 17 at 20:04
The coil will be weaker if the voltage is low, may be worth checking.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote club joker 84 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jan 17 at 22:25
Hi guys,

Yes I am happy with the silencer.   It is certainly well made and nice and solid. As for noise, I don't really know for sure, as I have only had it running with the open manifold before. It is definitely a lot quieter than that! I am also running it inside, so it still sounds quite loud, but then so does running any car in a workshop.   I will see if I can sort out a video and you can judge for yourself.   

Thanks for the pointer on the coil.   Van has been sitting for a long time, so battery may be down a bit.   I have had it on trickle charge though.   Will double check what it's getting.   I had similar trouble when I first went to start it and tried doing it with the charger connected, so it should have been seeing 12v. Still would not work 'properly' and only with the key right in the centre of it.

The immobiliser is connected straight down to the fuse box, but maybe it is not a great earth.   Will have a dig around and see what's happening.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote club joker 84 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan 17 at 14:27
Not done a video as yet on the noise side of things, but have done some science (ish).  Downloaded a sound meter app on my phone.  Not saying that the readings are accurate, but do give a reasonable comparison.  Readings taken close to tailpipe.

First up - our other car 2004 Nissan Cube.  1.4 petrol.  This is a very quiet car.  It is front engined, rear exhaust, so reading is pretty much exhaust only.  It is possible to have a normal conversation standing close the exhaust with the car idling.  Reading taken outside.


Next up - the van with new exhaust in place.  Obviously rear engined, so inevitably engine noise in the reading as well.  Engine cover hatch is still off, but boot was closed.  Van on axle stands.  Reading taken in workshop, but with double doors open.


Not a huge amount more decibels, but they are logarithmic reading, so the gaps get bigger between them.  Real world, you have to raise your voice to have a conversation next to the van.  Not shout, but speak pretty loudly.  I expect the noise to come down a bit with the hatch in place.

Overall I am happy with it.  Definitely quieter than the old WBX.  

On the voltage thing, I still need to get my multimeter out.  Re-connected the Eberspacher last night.  Have connected it up to the fuel return line to avoid any conflicts with the new electric fuel pump for the engine.  Heater all pumps fine and fuel is getting through, but won't fire.  I think that they are also quite sensitive to voltage, so quite possible that the battery is a bit low.  Will get it on charge and see what happens.


Edited by club joker 84 - 25 Jan 17 at 14:32
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bromy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan 17 at 17:22
Thanks for taking the time, i think ill look into the same silencer for mine Thumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fufflenarnia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan 17 at 17:44
The diesel silencers can lack wadding, so you may find a good quality 2.1 injection silencer is even quieter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fufflenarnia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 17 at 21:59
Hi, have you had chance to test your vss yet? I'm hoping it works as I may borrow that idea!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote club joker 84 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 17 at 22:36
Err,sort of! It didn't work Started engine and span speedo up with a drill whilst data logging in vcds. The speed stayed at 0mph.

Have built another one to a different circuit design. This new design worked fine with a magnet operating the hall sender. Not sure if the magnet in the speedo will be man enough to activate it. Will try and have a go with it (i.e. Wire it up and spin the speedo up with my drill) later this week.


Done a few more unexciting jobs like reconnecting the gear linkage and bodging up an accelerator cable. Will do a bit of an update at some stage.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote club joker 84 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 17 at 00:21
Help! Clutch problems!

Put the driveshaft back on the nearside of the van tonight. What a pain in the arse of a job. Anyway, one side done. I decided to call it a night and relax newly aching shoulders. Thought I would give it a gentle go just to see if I could get all the gears OK.

Engine on, and clutch dipped. Then slipped it into first, slowly let clutch up, but nothing happened. No biting point, nothing. Same story in all of the gears - gutted!

Had a poke around under the van. Slave cylinder seems to work ok (ie move in and out) bracket isn't flexing or anything. It is still the petrol slave cylinder, and but diesel release arm. Are they incompatible? What have I done wrong!?

All suggestions and ideas gratefully received!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T3 Nev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 17 at 09:08
Fit both driveshafts first.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rowlesy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 17 at 20:06
Originally posted by T3 Nev T3 Nev wrote:

Fit both driveshafts first.

yes your differential is releasing the energy through the lest resistance - the other side of the gearbox with no drive shaft!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bromy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 17 at 21:28
I had to result to dropping one tyre on the deck whilst i checked all mine by hand, whilst it wasnt running like
"follow the masses, do the opposite"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote club joker 84 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb 17 at 00:03
Thanks guys. Fitted other drive shaft tonight and all is well I think. Wheels definitely spin around now which is good news. I definitely need to sort out my gear shift though - it's all over the shop!

More good news is that my diy speed sensor actually works! Checked with the data logger in vcds and I can change the speed by spinning the speedo over by hand. Will post full details, and circuit later this week.

Nearly there now!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fufflenarnia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb 17 at 06:49
Excellent, can you put up a wiring diagram so I can plajorise it 😀
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote club joker 84 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb 17 at 01:19
OK - speed sensor circuit!  First, proof that it works (click that for a video):


Note the vehicle speed reading in the third box across on the second row.  The rattley noise that you can hear in the video is me spinning the speedo over by hand.

Circuit is as follows:


Components are hall sensor, 12v zener diode, 100k resistor, 1k resistor, led.  When / if I find my receipt, I'll post the actual part numbers, but there is nothing unusual there.  I got mine from CPC components.

As I have previously said, I am no expert, but this works.  Hall sensor is top left.  They have 3 pins, +ve, -ve and signal.  The zener diode is a diode that lets current flow the wrong way once the trigger voltage is reached.  The way the circuit works is that when the hall sensor is magnetised, it lets the current flow from the positive to the signal pin.  When the voltage is sufficient, the zener will let it pass through it.  This effectively 'squares up' the signal wave form.  Don't think this is strictly necessary for an AGG ecu, but is for a lot of other ecus.  The current can then flow through the circuit and give a signal and light the led.

I made mine up on a bit of veroboard.  No photos of it i am afraid, but it looks pretty similar to my previous one.  Takes a bit of thinking about to turn the above circuit into reality, I had about 3 goes!  Main thing is to make sure that both of the diodes are the right way round. 

Hope this helps someone! Smile

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote club joker 84 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 17 at 22:45
Finally, more progress, but also a setback I think Confused

When I last posted, I had got my speed sensor working.  Immobiliser coil all seems fine now when the battery is charged, so think that low battery voltage was the problem there.  How do you get spare keys cut for these things?

Since then, I have sorted out the accelerator cable, and was working on the gear change.  Whilst doing this I found that the clutch didn't want to disengage. A bit of investigation showed that the clutch slave was leaking.  Darn!  

New slave and pipes ordered from Brickwerks and fitted.  Fortunately I had only recently refitted it all up with new bolts, so this was quite easy.  Would imagine it is an absolute bastard with rusty nuts!  All bleed, and decided to renew all the fluid and do brakes at the same time.  Used a Gunson Eezibleed.  Great piece of kit, which made it all straightforward. 

This was followed by a few tidying up jobs, fitting new speakers etc. whist the van was in the workshop.  It's an absolute twat to get in and out of the workshop, so then I had to tidy up after myself to make room to get the van out in the open again.

One 4,000 point turn later and the van is out Big smile


A few things:

1 - van needs a clean and polish!
2 - sounds nice Smile
3 - needs an MOT
4 - gear change needs a bit of adjustment because it goes into reverse without needing to be pushed down - made the manoeuvre out of the workshop quite, err, interesting.
5 - this is the big one.  Pretty sure that the headgasket is knackered.  A fair bit of white smoke from the exhaust, and also oily water dripping from it.   I left it running for about half an hour just to make sure this wasn't just from not having run for a while.  When I rev it it sprays oily water (not loads, but enough to mark the gravel behind it.

Here's a short video of it running (click the photo to see the video).  You can see the smoke levels and a few water drips.  Bromy, you can hear how noisy / quiet it is.  Sounds a bit diesely on the video, but nicer in the flesh. 


Not really had a head gasket go before, so don't know what I looking at.  what do your experts think - is this the head gasket?  

Anyone had the head off with the engine still in the van?  Looks like there is enough room.  All the bolts etc. are new, so the most difficult bits should be ok.  I knew I should have done it whilst the engine was out, but economised on the £80 gasket!  Must be the only thing I didn't do.  How do I check if needs skimming, and roughly what does it cost if it does?  

All help gratefully received!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jim potter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar 17 at 14:04
check the oil cooler. they are known to fail.
and yes you can do the headgasket with everything in situ.

great work so far.
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immo removal ( postal service avalible ), ecu remapping , spanners and a garage for anyone that wants any help, kettle always on.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jim potter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar 17 at 14:09
also remember you have removed the cat, the engine hasn't been run for ages.

check all the levels , run it check them again.
any obvious signs of oil in the header tank ?

Full vcds ,vag tacho,
immo removal ( postal service avalible ), ecu remapping , spanners and a garage for anyone that wants any help, kettle always on.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rowlesy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar 17 at 19:01
White smoke is usually water into cylinders might just be wrong or old antifreeze. Don't usually need to skim unless its been cooked - but you'll never know now
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