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1.6CS to AEF Engine Swap

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olsaai View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote olsaai Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jul 12 at 14:56
Originally posted by colinthefox colinthefox wrote:

Just had a look on ebay. You could try one of these 280811736195. New since I last looked for this.
 
Looks like it might be what we need. Would you like to give it a go and report back?
 
It would need to go in some kind of enclosure like a small plastic box.
 
Colinthefox, fantastic !
 
I will purchase this relay and trial it although i went out yesturday and purchased a switch to do the job. I will report back in a week or two.
 
I hope to finish the transplant tommorow do you think it would be a good idea to add a thread with pics to compliment your thread, just showing how i did things a little different i.e. jx to aef keeping jx waterpump and alt braket, using aef inlet/exhauste manifolds ect ect?
 
Ta HuxleyPig Thumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote colinthefox Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jul 12 at 19:18
By all means post up some stuff on using the JX waterpump and alternator (and manifolds). Best on a different thread I would think. I'd be interested to know how you did it, because I reckoned that the original waterpump was a very different fitment, and couldn't be fixed properly due to the position of the lower fixing lug on the block. Besides which, I couldn't stand forever adjusting the belts on the original setup. The poly V belt is much better. Never squeals.
 
 
Hope the relay works!


Edited by colinthefox - 09 Jul 12 at 19:19
1.9D AEF T3 Kamper
All sorts of other oil burners too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Seacreeper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar 13 at 13:56
I have just had this conversion done using a printed copy of this fantastic and graphic  post, i have a couple of small issues with timing on start up and my glow plug light stays on for too long, but the general running and speed of my van are everything i could ask for!
One issue now ive got her home is re-registering the new engine, does anyone know where on the engine the number i need is?
 

Never do today, what someone else may be made to do tomorrow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote colinthefox Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Mar 13 at 11:56
It's helpfully behind the bypass hose. Sandpaper the flat, then wipe with a dirty rag, then a wet finger to reveal the magic number. Better than scratch cards.

Edited by colinthefox - 15 Mar 13 at 12:00
1.9D AEF T3 Kamper
All sorts of other oil burners too.
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drayton View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drayton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 13 at 16:42
currently on this upgrade, nearly ready to start, one problem the new alternator that came with the aef engine didnt come with plug and wires, I currently have two thick reds and a thin blue, all in a three pin plug that fitted the old alternator, both reds go back to the battery + the blue i presume is the charge light, can any one verify where they go in the picture above there seems to be two lightweight wires going to the plug and socket.. many thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote colinthefox Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 13 at 17:58
You should also have a green wire to your old alternator.
 
You'll need the alternator plug off a scrapper, (Skoda Felicia 1.9D or VW Polo 1.9D) and make sure you get the wires with it. I think the fat red will come with a lug on each end, one of which goes straight to the +ve of the battery, and the other to the +ve stud on the alternator.
 
The plug on the alternator has the two thin wires, of which I have found at least two varieties of colours. Anyway whatever colours you have, D+ connects to the blue wire on the van, and W connects to the green wire on the van.
 
The only real failure I've had with this engine has been the alternator connections, as I didn't make them solidly enough first time, I recommend using the wiring from the AEF and making any joins at the van end where there's less vibration, not using the van wiring and joining at the alternator, where your joints will be shaken to bits. Make sure you get the wiring clamp with the alternator too, this is vital to avoid failures.
1.9D AEF T3 Kamper
All sorts of other oil burners too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drayton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 13 at 21:27
Many thanks, will have a look tomorrow and perhaps visit the local scrappy still waiting for my delay off timer to arrive but should be up and running soon,, excellent write up by the way, would of been lost without it,, cheers ian
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drayton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jun 13 at 11:05
I dont have a tacho on mine.therefore i dont have the extra wire..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote colinthefox Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 13 at 17:37
You may not have a tacho, but the green wire is also used for the Buzzer of Doom, and is always there, as far as I'm aware. If you don't have a tacho, and don't need or want a BoD, then you won't need the green wire, and the alternator will function perfectly well without it.
1.9D AEF T3 Kamper
All sorts of other oil burners too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drayton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 13 at 23:37
Ok, if its been removed then it must of been cut right back in the sleeve as theres no sign of it.As for the "buzzer of doom" I am guessing that is an audible warning device for no oil pressure (must look that up). and no, not too bothered as i have never had one previously. Anyway replacement alternator going on tomorrow then out for a longer run, been round the lanes a couple of times to try it out and was very impressed, kept it in fourth up the hill and the other half told me to slow down (that was a first)Away next week for a long weekend, over to Coventry to see Springsteen then off to Norfolk,Fingers crossed for weather and faultless trip. Will upload some pics when the forum lets me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jul 13 at 17:31
Great writeup Colin !
Thanks for taking the time and effort to include such great detail.
My T3 was converted from a 1.7D to a 1.9D 1Y engine before I bought it, so now at least I know a lot more of what was involved etc.
I also now know why it is so hard to start when the engine is warm, time to go hunting for a 600ohm resistor Thumbs Up
Thanks again !
Colm.

1979 LT 35, 1984 cc Petrol Panel Van
1989 T3, 1.9 Diesel (1Y) Tin Top converted panel van
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote colinthefox Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Oct 13 at 19:01
Thread resurrection alert!
 
I have been having a bit of hassle with the Buzzer of Doom" since I did the swap.
 
The buzzer would chirp as I pulled up at the end of a slip road, or on leaving french roundabouts.
 
So I fitted an electric oil pressure gauge as a temporary measure to try to find out what was going on. There was definitely an isue with oil frothing, because on the motorway, if the van swayed from side to side, the oil pressure went up and down, but not a worrying amount and this did not happen at lower speeds. That was with the "windage tray" version of the sump gasket fitted. I tried improving the windage tray by blocking holes etc, but that made the variation in oil pressure marginally worse, presumably preventing oil from running freely back into the sump. Then I went back to the standard rubber sump gasket, and raised the level of oil in the sump about 6mm. Much better then, but if I threw the van around I could still get the BoD to chirp.
 
I hadn't realised the two engines were fitted with different switches, Embarrassed and I've just found out where to read the operating pressure of the BoD oil switch. (it's stamped on the side facing the engine, so you can't read it without taking the switch out!) The old CS was fitted with a 1.4bar switch which I originally reused in the AEF. The AEF was fitted with a .75 bar switch which I've now put back in. Hopefully that should cure the problem.
 
Sorry for the boring details, Geek but thought this might help anyone with a 1.9 engine.
 
 
1.9D AEF T3 Kamper
All sorts of other oil burners too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ThePete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug 15 at 12:20
Is that fuel pump a Lucas LS4000? Doesn't look like that. I have a LS4000 in my AEF (Skoda Felicia 1,9D 1996 engine) and I am planning to use it with my AEF in T3. But...my pump does not have the immobilizer like yours! I have also a Polo 1,9D 1996 (AEF) and it seems to have the LS4000 too... Trying to figure out the swap for a few weeks and this thread seems to be the very needed help Thumbs Up Thank you. 

Just need to figure out the fuel pump. And I sure don't know anything about those Ouch Any help appreciated...




Edited by ThePete - 29 Aug 15 at 12:22
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote colinthefox Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug 15 at 18:46
Hi ThePete

I have no idea whether mine was a Lucas LS4000 or not (1998). I suspect yours is an earlier version if it doesn't have the immobiliser and is 1996. Or it could have a different pump for your country's market. There may be no car theives in Finland!

I don't think it mattters which fuel pump your AEF has fitted, as long as it is original to the engine, and has a throttle cable. If the pump is different you will have to figure out the various electrical connections for yourself! It would be a good idea to check the height, just in case it's higher, and would foul the engine lid.

Could you post some pictures of your pump so I could have a look?
1.9D AEF T3 Kamper
All sorts of other oil burners too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Daaf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Feb 16 at 19:15
Thank you very much for inspiring me to buy an AEF engine for my T3.
Very clear post.

I am in the middle of the conversion and have some questions:

How do you open the pump for the power steering?
I managed to take the iron wire half ring of the back and now I am stuck and can´t open it any further.
Anybofy has some more information?

Since English is not my first language I don´t understand the part about the thermostat.
Do I need to buy a new one, or change the orientation?

I am almost done and am very exited to try the engine.

Thank you for reading. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote colinthefox Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Feb 16 at 21:19
Hi Daaf

Thanks for your kind comments.

You can use the thermostat that came with the AEF. It has a sort of bridge arrangement, and the centre of it holds the pin for the mechanism. The two supports for this bridge should ideally be top and bottom so the coolant has minimum resistance to flowing horizontally. Is that what's confusing you? I don't think it's all that important really.

As for the power steering pump, mine could be different because it came off a Skoda of some description. Anyway, I can't really remember the details of stripping it down, as it was a few years ago. Sorry I can't help.

Best of luck with your new engine.
1.9D AEF T3 Kamper
All sorts of other oil burners too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote melront Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb 16 at 16:00
This will be my plan for spring :) I've just bought new (old) engine. Thank you very much for this how to :)
My 1.6D was really slow in hills (moving up :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote colinthefox Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb 16 at 20:51
You should have plenty of Skoda Felicias to choose from where you are!


Edited by colinthefox - 18 Feb 16 at 20:52
1.9D AEF T3 Kamper
All sorts of other oil burners too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote melront Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb 16 at 09:42
Actually engine is from VW Polo, but it should be the same.
But the main problem is lack of experience in my case :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Daaf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 16 at 15:15
Hello Everybody,

I swapped my 1.6D to an AEF and I am still in the process of fine tuning.
I bought an engine at a scrapyard in Spain, it looked very clean and it had made in Mexico written on it. Never saw that before...

I found it very difficult to drill the hole for the dipstick, I mean to get the right angle.
Ended up hitting the engine mount hole as well...
When I had the dipstick in it blew out a lot of oil when the engine was running.
Had to take of the dipstick tube that was under the oil level and solved that.

I made a switch on the dashboard for the "commencement of injection" solenoid of the dieselpump.
I found out that I can only put the switch in the off position after the engine is completely warmed up. If I do it earlier the engine sputters at low refs and gives some white smoke.
I am thinking that maybe the timing of the diesel pump is a bit off.
I put the timing belt on with the CS flywheel and T3 gearbox TDC mark. I hope that is the right way.
I am a bit disappointed in the fuel consumption it is almost 10 liters for 100 km.
My 4 speed gearbox is also not helping for a good consumption.

I also couldn't open the pump for the steering assistance, it was a model that couldn't be opened so i took the internal parts out and closed it with some oil inside.

Lately I had a lot of coolant leaks, there is a lot of pressure on the hoses.
I ordered a new expansion tank cover to  see if that helps.

Also notice a contact sound when i  drive backwards, I think it is the exhaust pipe hitting something.

Well, it was a nice project and I am thinking of buying a space AEF in case of trouble.
Maybe not a "made in mexico" this time.

Is there somebody who also have the same experience with the "commencement of injection" solenoid switch timing?

Keep up the good work :)

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