This is not a normal simple job and will require a certain amount of specialist tools and know how to get it right, hopefully this sheet will outline some of the pitfalls you will encounter along the way.
IMPORTANT - Under no circumstances should the old wheel studs be knocked out in situ and new studs pulled through by screw force alone, this will destroy the threads on your new studs.

Tools Required.

• 46mm socket and long, strong extension19mm wheel brace
• 11mm spanner.
• Jack
• Axle stands
• Wire cutters or pliers
• Hammer
• Access to hydraulic press
• Hacksaw
• File

1. Remove hub cap and remove split pins from rear hub nuts.
2. With the aid of an assistant sat in the van with his foot depressed on the foot brake with the hand brake on remove the 46mm headed nut to the rear hub, this nut will be extremely tight (500nm) and will require at least a 3 foot bar with someone jumping on the bar to get it to move.
3. Now slacken the normal 19mm headed wheel nuts.
4. Once the nuts are loosened then jack the vehicle up and support on axle stands, chock the front wheels and release foot and hand brakes so the rear wheels are free to spin.
5. Remove rear wheel and 11mm headed drum retaining screws, back off brake adjuster through access hole in backplate and withdraw the brake drum.
6. Remove 46mm hub nut and withdraw hub from the drive shaft.
7. Knock old wheel studs out with a sharp, swift blow to the threaded end.
8. Press in one new stud with the aid of a hydraulic press from the rear, under no circumstances should the new stud be pulled through by screw force alone i.e do no use a nut on the new stud and just keep tightening till it pulls it through, this will damage your new studs!
9. Trial fit the hub and drum assembly on the vehicle, hand tighten the 46mm nut on and try one of your new wheels with an original wheel nut along with your offset correcting spacer of choice.
10. Count by how much too long your new studs are. Tip, one thread is 1.5mm, so if your new studs protrude buy 4 threads then you should remove 6mm from your new studs (4x1.5mm=6mm).
11. If your new studs are too long then it is easier to cut them to length while you can hold them in the vice rather than them being fitted to the hub, so if you need to remove material then now is the time to do it. Preferred method of cutting is a hacksaw then edges cleaned up with a file and leading edge cut.
12. Once your studs are the correct length then they too can be fitted to the hub using a hydraulic press. The studs can be knocked through with a hammer from the rear but care must be taken to make sure they are fitted square to the hub, you can tell when they are “home” as the note will change when you hammer them through.
13. With the new studs fitted to the hub, fit the hub to your original steel wheel and tighten the nuts, this will straighten any studs that are out of line.
14. Once you are satisfied that the studs are the correct length and fitted correctly then remove the hub from the wheel are refit to the vehicle. Hand-tighten the 46mm nut, slide the drum over the hub, refit the 2x11mm headed screws if they are to be re-used (It is of no detriment if you decide not to fit these for wheel fitting purposes, the drum will centre on the hole in the middle of it).
15. Now is a good time to clean the brakes down with brake cleaner and check rear brakes for wear, the condition of the handbrake cable and the wheel cylinder for signs of seizure and leakage.
16. Refit brake drum and adjust brakes via adjuster through access hole in the brake back plate.
17. Fit original steel wheel.
18. Lower vehicle to the ground and with the aid of your assistant on the brakes tighten the rear hub nut to 500nm and fit new split pin.
19. Jack up again, and support on axles stands, then remove steel wheel and swap for your new wheel.
20. Lower vehicle to the floor again and tighten wheel nuts to 180nm. Note that the wheel nuts should be checked after 10 miles and 100 miles for tightness, the new studs will settle a little, this is normal.
21. Repeat for the opposite side.

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