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Got massive
wheels? can't open your side loading door? Read this page to find out
how to combat this problem.
Firstly, you must be aware that there are 2 types of sliding door mechanism.
Up to chassis
number WVWZZZ25ZEH175000 - This is known as the early hinge. (End of
'84 model year)
from chassis
number WVWZZZ25ZFH000000 - This is known as the late hinge. ('85 model
year onwards)
The instruction
below are for the later style hinge, this is the more difficult of the
2 to modify, the earlier style hinge U bracket is modified in the same
manner but you don't need to do and bodywork to the side of the van,
instead all you have to do is move the stop further towards the rear
of the van by the exact same amount that you have extended the U bracket,
it's that simple!
Tools list.
- #2 Phillips
screw driver.
- Mole
grips.
- Hacksaw.
- Various
welding clamps.
- A MIG
welder (preferred).
- Fire
extinguisher!!
- Trolley
jack and block of wood (to support door while hinge is removed).
- Padsaw.
- Grinder.
- Steel
rule, or tape measure.
- Centre
punch.
- Punch.
- Hammer.
Extended
U brackets are available through retail outlets without you having to
get the welder out, but they are quite expensive, but the choice is
yours.
Start off
by removing the sliding hinge cover panel, this is removed by taking
out the 2 screws that attach it on the underside, they can get quite
corroded, a number 2 Philips screwdriver should be used, failing that
some sharp molegrips will do the trick. Once the screws are out pull
the lower edge of the panel outwards so the securing tabs are clear
of where they attach then pull upwards. They can be very tight, in these
cases a lump of wood sliden upwards to the top of the cover panel then
whacked with a hammer usually releases them. Be careful not to damage
the panel or the paint!
The interior
door panel will have to be removed to gain access to the third sliding
door hinge bolt to be able to remove the hinge, a simple enough task
once the interior handle has been removed. The panel should just pop
off in the same manner as the front door cards do. Once removed then
prop the door on a trolley jack. Beware the doors aren't light by any
stretch!
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Here
we have a view of the end of the sliding hinge runner, you can see
the end of the channel turns through 90°, this is the part of
the channel that initiates the closing action. This is the part
of the runner that has to be chopped off and moved back. You can
see it is a separate piece welded into place. This has to be removed. |
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This
is the view once you have removed the runner end piece. You can
see that the bodywork has an indentation to make room for the 90°
section of the runner. When moving the end piece back you will have
to make a new indentation to allow room for the end piece. This
is done by gently hammering back the metal with a hammer and punch,
or a blunted chisel. See the shiney bare metal part, that's where
you have to "massage" |
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Now,
a view with the end piece moved back. It is very important that
you move the end piece back the exact same amount that you have
extended your U bracket (see next few pictures)
Once your happy, get welding. |
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Finished!
end piece welded into place and given a coat of paint. Once the
paint is dry its a good idea to wax the offending area to keep water
off. |
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This
is the U bracket. These parts are available to buy, but then can
be extended, there are a few ways of doing this, by adding a section
into the middle, not recommended as 2 welds are required, more room
for error and not as strong, best way is to use two U brackets cut
in different paces to gain length. The angle iron is used to keep
the bracket square while it is tacked into place. |
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Make
sure you do your calculations first and decide exactly how much
clearance you need, the shorter the U bracket the better. This view
shows the hinge being welded, note the healthy chamfering of the
2 ends. This helps you get more surface area to the weld, hence
making it stronger. I have seen this done by drilling and tapping
the 2 ends and adding a section of threaded bar in the middle for
extra strength. |
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Once
it is tacked into place then it's time for the welding proper. Let
the welds cool naturally, sudden cooling of the welds because of
you impatience/excitement could lead to cracking of the weld. |
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Once
welded and cooled time to clean up the welds with the grinder. Remember
to make a good job as this piece is seen from the outside. |
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Tidied
up.... |
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....and
painted, ready for refitment. |
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This
picture probably helps you understand why it is essential that you
move the end piece back by the exact same amount that you extend
you hinge. The pre lengthened hinges you can buy normally come in
60mm. This van was done at 42mm, as I say, the less you remove is
better, its the principle of moments, i.e. clockwise moments = anticlockwise
moments! translated meaning the further away from the van the door
is the more load will be exerted on the hinge and welds and the
more likely it will be to fail. |
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Look
at all that lovely clearance! |
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You
would never tell would you!
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Thanks
to go out to Brian J Box for his invaluable help during the production
of this page.
Photo's
- Brian J Box.
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